Reintroducing a Poorly Socialized Dog to Society

Before you start socializing a dog that has been neglected or abused, you need to have a good understanding of pack leadership and have completed at least one month of the basic training lessons. When you feel that you have good control over your dog, and that he is respecting your position as pack leader you are ready to move up to reintroducing the dog into society.

Reintroducing a Poorly Socialized Dog to Society

Dogs love to play, but what we sometimes don't understand is that they NEED to play. Any dog that is kept isolated from canine or human companionship, which never enjoys a game of toss the all or tug the bone, or experiences the joy of a playful relationship with its owners, will be an unhappy dog.

This unhappiness will manifest itself in behavioral problems. For instance, excessive barking or aggression is a sign of boredom and discontent. Therefore, interaction with others is crucial.

So you, without even realizing it, are part of a centuries old wolf pack social structure. In these deceptively ordinary moments - when for example, you play hide and seek with your dog - you accommodate your dog's innate drive to socialize. It is through such games that you and your dog truly bond.

If you never intended to ever introduce your dog to another person or dog, then simply making sure that you gave your dog lots of one on one play time every day would be enough to keep him healthy and happy for the rest of his life.

Most people, however, want a companion animal that they can introduce to family and friends, as well as take jogging, out to the park, or other social environments. If the dog isn't socialized properly however, these kinds of interactions with the rest of the world may not go as smoothly as the dog owner thought they should.

Taking a poorly socialized or aggressive dog out into society may quickly become a nightmare of barking, lunging, growling and just general bad behavior. It might be directed towards other dogs or it might be directed towards strange people, either way it will eventually become such a nightmare that the dog's owner no longer wants to try anymore.

Start socializing and training your dog early and you can avoid the difficult challenge of re-training an aggressive dog later!

Before you start working on training your dog in a social environment, you need to make sure that you have control of your dog in your own home. Start working on your Basic Training lessons and be very consistent in it. When you feel that your dog is no longer challenging your leadership then you may be ready to start working away from home.

Using your training collar, and a good leash, load your dog into the car and head to a park or other place where you know for a fact that you are very unlikely to meet dogs that are not leashed. You absolutely must have control over the situation, and you can't control it if the other dog is not leashed.

Just as you did in Basic Training, put your dog in the 'heel' position and start out for your walk in plain view of the other dogs.

Make sure that you are in a calm and controlled state of mind. You want to feel confident and yet relaxed, totally in control of the situation, and radiating your calm confidence to your dog.

Do not allow your dog to be distracted by the other dogs or people, the same as if you were walking down the street by your home.

If his head and tail abruptly jerk upwards towards another dog or other distraction, immediately correct him and snap him back into position. He should be paying attention to you and watching you for cues, not watching other dogs.

If someone tries to walk their dog up to you or tries to pet your dog, ask them to please stay away from him, he's training right now. Most people will understand and respect your wishes.

Walk around the park or area once the first time you're out, or until the dog is walking past other dogs and distractions without taking a second look. You want to try to end the training session on a positive note.

Reward him when you load him back in the car with a special treat you brought from home, maybe a favorite snack or toy.

Practice walking in a public place at least ten or twelve more times before you move up to the next level. When you can easily walk around the public area and your dog never jerks on the leash, tries to follow another dog or person, and appears to be relaxed and comfortable following you then you are probably ready to move up to the next step.

If you're working towards human socializing, start having family meet you at the park. If it's canine socializing, have them bring their dog.

You are the pack leader, so you must be the one to decide if a strange human or dog will be accepted by the pack. This means your dog is not allowed to growl, bark, or in any way act aggressive towards anyone or any other dog.

When you're ready, leash both dogs and start your walk around the park. Start with some distance between the dogs by walking together in the same direction and keeping one of the humans between them at all times.

At first they'll both keep looking at each other and trying to cross around the humans to reach the other dog. Just continue walking firmly forward and snapping them back into position until they remember their training and start paying more attention to you then the other dog.

The reason it helps to have the person as a friend is because dialog between the two humans helps the dogs understand that you are both pack leaders with a greater status level then they have, so they must relax and simply be good companions as you instruct them to.

Walk your dogs this way for half a dozen times, talking, laughing and making lots of noise communicating with each other while maintaining a relaxed control over the dogs. They must remain calm and obedient even if you are belly laughing, crying or in a loud debate.

Try to end each walk on a good note with both dogs feeling relaxed and happy.

It really helps if you know several friends that can rotate walking different dogs with your dog. You don't want your dog to become accustomed to just one dog, you want him to be relaxed around all dogs.

After you've practiced walking together half a dozen times, meet up at the park again, but this time after you've walked for a minute or two and the dogs are walking without distraction, abruptly stop and step close enough together that the dogs can sniff noses.

A well socialized dog will sniff anther dog's nose and then turn to look at his master as if to ask why the walk ended so soon. A dog with lesser social skills will be more focused, trying to sniff the other dog all over as if trying to determine by scent and stature who's going to be the boss. A dog with very poor skills will raise his tail up, stiffen his legs and may growl or even snap at the other dog.

If the aggressive dog's tail comes up above the level of his spine then pull him sharply back with a firm "BAH" and continue your walk without reintroducing the dogs again that day. If both dogs appear to be maintaining their calm and relaxed demeanor then it's okay to stand and talk while they interact for a few minutes, then continue the walk on that good note.

Keep practicing the introductions once or twice each day until the aggressive dog learns that he is not in control of the situation, you are. You don't want to overwhelm the dog, especially if it's an older rescue that has potentially had bad experiences with other dogs. You need to take it slow so he doesn't feel pressured.

When you have introduced your dog to half a dozen other dogs and he has responded well to all of them, then you can move up to meeting multiple dogs at a time and eventually to off leash parks.

Puppies will obviously go through these steps very easily, but it's a very important for older dogs that have not been socialized properly to take these steps at a pace that benefits them. Particularly rescue dogs that have spent years chained or kenneled without good human or canine interaction.

The important thing is to always maintain control of the situation and be a good pack leader for your dog.

In this article I referred to a couple of other lessons that I'd written previously; Understanding Pack Leadership [http://www.bulldogabbie.com/pack-leadership/] and Basic Dog Training Lessons [http://www.bulldogabbie.com/basic-lessons-every-dog-needs/] it's important that you start at the right level for your dog and go from there. If you try to shove him into a social situation and he isn't respecting you as a pack leader you could have tragic results.

For older dogs, rescues, or poorly socialized dogs I highly recommend you start with pack leadership, and then move to the basic lessons before advancing to public socializing.

For puppies you can sometimes combine all of them together so long as you don't over stress the puppy. Many people will take their puppies to beginner obedience classes, and that gives them a good solid base for social skills and their training basics so long as they are protected from any aggressive dogs at that class.

- Celeste (Bulldog Abbie's Mom)

Essential Training Program For All Dogs

Probably the most difficult part of dog training that takes the longest time to train and get the results you want. Would you like your dog to sit on command quickly? Would you like your dog to lie down on command, even when he is running? Sound impossible? So many dog owners find quick response is beyond them and as soon as their dog is off the lead, all notion of control goes with it. They have been to training clubs, attended seminars, read books and tried any amount of tricks and tips and nothing has worked. So what is the secret of consistent quick response? Only very few trainers have the answer and I will share some of those secrets with you in this article. These techniques are very powerful and, when implemented correctly produce truly outstanding results.

In order to ensure puppies are given the best start in life, you need to make sure the right rules, boundaries and limitations are being put in place so the young dog knows what is expected and what is not allowed or permitted behaviour. Puppies and young dogs need to understand what they are being corrected for and they need to understand the correction so it is vital these are delivered in the right way.

All dogs, even young dogs and puppies are very good at manipulating the people with whom they live to get what they want. This does not always cause problems because humans are generally lazy creatures who will only be willing to change something if it becomes absolutely necessary and then a lot of hard work is required. As with most things in life, prevention is better, easier, cheaper and longer lasting than cure so the details of this plan, whilst remaining quite general will cover the basics. Further and more detailed specific plans are available on request and cover most problems. If you are having a particular problem that is not covered on our list, please contact us and we will write one that is specific to your needs.

It is important you train the correct state of mind. If your puppy or young dog is currently excitable, boisterous and generally a pain, you have probably been rewarding the wrong state of mind. It is imperative this is completed before any other training is undertaken, even that of basic obedience. The key question is how can you teach your puppy or young dog that a calm mind is a better place to be?

You lead by example as young dogs copy the example of other dogs or people around them, in other words the dog will match the energy of the dogs or people around. So the first and probably most difficult for a human to do is to be completely calm with your dog regardless of what they are doing. Just take a minute to visualise that, your dog is tearing around the house leaving a wake of destruction and you feel like chasing after him screaming for him to stop. Now visualise being perfectly calm. This is a very difficult thing to do but a very important skill to practice and will pay dividends in the long term.

The dog must understand its place in the family and meeting and greeting after periods of separation is a key part of this. If you are greeted by a very excited dog that jumps up and demands your attention and you respond in kind, you are matching the dogs energy which means the dog is in control of the situation. The greeting may be when you return from a period out of the house or in the morning after you have been apart for the night.

If you do not respond to the greeting with the same energy, instead you walk past the dog with a calm air of indifference and ignore the fact the dog is trying their best to get your attention, the behaviour will reduce until the dog is matching your energy of calm behaviour. By doing this you are leading and setting the example you want followed. When the dog has calmed down, calmly call then to you and if they come straight away, reward them with some long calm strokes down the flank or side of the dog. Keep away from the head as this will trigger excitement. Now you are beginning to demonstrate the characteristics of a leader.

What else is a good trigger for excitement? Visitors, people who come to your front door and then invade the territory. What better to send your dog into fits of confusion?

No, Get down, come here, get off, behave yourself are typical reactions to a dog jumping up at visitors and usually issued with increasing levels of volume and stress, all of which fuels the dogs confusion and fear. Yes, you read that right, fear. Your dog is probably frightened by the probable confrontation with whoever is coming into his territory and is worried he might not survive!!

The doorbell or knocker usually starts of the barking and rush towards the door in a desperate attempt to see the intruder off and to protect the family but the dog lacks the necessary confidence to be truly in charge and is asking for someone else to take over.

Calmly walk in front of the dog at the door, ask your visitors to bear with you before you open the door and take your dog calmly by the collar or slip a lead over his head. Take the dog into another room and close the door on him. Let your guests into the hall, ask them to wait and go get your dog. Bring him into the hall on his lead and if he is barking, pulling and excited, put him back in the other room for 20 seconds. Open the door, take his lead and let him back in. Repeat this exercise until he comes in with all feet on the floor and calm. Then let him approach your guests for a sniff and if he remains calm, they can give him a calm stroke. This teaches the dog you have control of the entrance to the house and you decide who comes in, not them.

The biggest source of excitement by far and the part of owning a dog that causes the most problems is the walk, taking the dog out of an environment where they feel safe, secure and comfortable and there are no threats to their peace and quiet and going into the big wide world where they feel they have to look after you and protect you from every perceived threat and possible attack whilst leading you on the hunt for food! No wonder the leave the house at such a rate of knots! Typical reactions to this behaviour from owners is yanking back on the lead repeatedly, telling the dog to heel repeatedly and generally getting wound up and stressed when the dog does not do as it is told! You know what is coming don't you? You and the dog must leave the house in a calm and controlled manner! Sounds so simple doesn't it? How you achieve it though is a different matter. You will also have no doubt heard you must go through a doorway first as proof of leadership and dominance. This is indeed true, but many owners when they approach a doorway will tell their dogs to wait or sit or some other form of command. The dog does not wait of his own accord for the owner to pass first then follow calmly.

This can only be achieved by breaking the exit from the house down into basic stages so we can, at each stage, teach the dog to be calm before we move on to the next one. When we walk our dogs, we all have a routing, we may not be aware of it but our dogs certainly are and they spot the routine and begin to get excited. I might guess at a routine that goes something like this:

An item of clothing will be put on, depending on the time of year or you might change into outdoor shoes.

You will then go to where the lead is kept

Then you will put the lead on the dog and be dragged to the door, down the road to wherever your usual destination is. If that destination is a park or some other area where the dog is let off and given freedom, your dog will probably pull you all the way there but probably will walk quite well on the way back, having got his own way.

To teach the dog to be calm before he leaves the house takes time, patience and consistent behaviour from you, the owner. At any of the above stages whilst you are preparing to leave the house the dog demonstrates excitement, the stage stops. If you are putting a coat or boots on, stop and take them off, let the dog calm and begin again. Repeat until you can complete this stage and the dog remains calm. Work through putting the lead on in the same way, taking it off if excitement becomes too much, leaving it on when the dog is calm. When you move towards the door and the dog goes in front of you, turn around and walk away from the door for a few paces. This tells the dog if he is in front of you, the walk does not happen. Repeat until the dog lets you go first. This may take many attempts. Keep calm and quiet. When you can go through your door and the dog calmly waits for you to go first, then you can go for a walk. Do not let him off his lead at all. If necessary, buy a long line so he can have a run but you retain control.

Further training is available at our classes or home visits. Places in our classes are very limited due to demand so call now to join the waiting list. K9 Consultants guarantees the methods described above are effective and will produce the required result. K9 Consultants cannot guarantee your interpretation and implementation of these techniques and methods. Only our classes or home visits can teach you correctly. Call now for booking information.

Havers Specialised Dog Training. Expert and Professional.

For Dog Owners Who Need Help

01530 242209

http://www.haversspecialiseddogtraining.co.uk

This article was written by Steven Havers, a full time Dog Behaviourist who specialises in training dogs not accepted by mainstream training clubs, centres or trainers. You can visit his website at http://www.haversspecialiseddogtraining.co.uk for more articles and training information.

Hiring A Pet Dog Trainer? Why Would You Need To? How Do You Select The Best Trainer For Your Dog?

Why would you need to hire a dog trainer anyway? This is a question that many people ask

when the subject comes up. You often hear people claiming to have managed to train their

old dog without such help. These same well meaning folks will often go on to tell you

about the antiquated methods that grandpa handed down such as hitting "Old Trusty" on the nose with a rolled up newspaper, or hanging a dead chicken around his neck to teach him not to kill animals.

The person educated in the correct use of dog training and canine psychology when hearing these

types of tales will secretly be thinking, it was amazing that old "Trusty" survived grandpas abuse.

Maybe he did by avoiding being around grandpa at any cost. "Trusty" probably saw grandpa and ran in the opposite direction or low crawled his way to him with the anticipation of more abuse. Beating a dog into submission is not training! Training, when done properly, uses the intelligence of the human race to manipulate the dog into desired behavior, not our barbaric caveman side.

So back to the original question of "Why would you hire a pet dog trainer?" Most people do so when they run into problems that they fully understand they lack the knowledge to solve. Usually frustration has built up when the dog is constantly having house breaking issues, or he is destroying items in the home or yard. He may have a running away issue, or just be unruly in general. Dog training is often the last effort owners make in saving the dog from being delivered to a shelter. The most intelligent of owners however, will use dog training to solve these problems BEFORE they ever become issues. As a dog trainer, my favorite clients are the ones that call before they get the puppy. They know that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. They often will ask questions about the tendencies of their breed of choice BEFORE making the selection. This in and of itself can prevent them from starting off on the wrong foot or making the wrong choice for their situation. A good example of this is the 75 year old grandmother who lived in a condo who wanted to know if I thought it was a good idea for her to take on the Alaskan Malamute puppy that her grandchildren had bought and now no longer wanted to keep. The issues with the puppy were unruliness, destruction, and jumping up on people. The last of which would obviously been a problem for a 75 year old woman. We finally resolved the issue by deciding that the appropriate thing to do would be for the grandchildren (who were teenagers) to keep and train the dog. Grandma paid for it. The puppy kept his now happier home. Grandma lived a happier life than she would with the possibility of a broken hip caused by a well meaning but overly zealous puppy.

The aforementioned puppy was trained first at 5 months of age with all of it's basic obedience, problem solving, and home manners (stopping at doors, gates, boundaries, and coming in and laying in "place" in a relaxed down stay) as well as giving the owners proper management techniques such as the use of a crate and dog run area when they were not there to monitor the dogs behavior. As he became an even larger teenager of approximately one year of age, he continued his education into a more advanced level of training to insure that he remained manageable. This family was able to not only retain their dog but to enjoy him into old age, all because Grandma made a very important phone call and found out what she could do about a situation with a puppy that was getting out of control for the entire family.

So now that we know why people hire Pet Dog Trainers, the next question should be "How do I find a good one?" This is not an easy question to answer because it requires a bit of explaining as to how one becomes a Pet Dog Trainer. I keep referring to the trainer as a Pet Dog Trainer rather than just a trainer because there are many different types of trainers. The are for instance Movie Dog Trainers, Sport Dog Trainers (for specific competitions), Police Dog Trainers, Gun Dog Trainers, etc. Each of these types of trainers has in common that they train dogs but the applications are vastly different and most don't correlate well to Pet Dog Training. The Pet Dog Trainer needs to know how to train any breed of dog to be a good pet. This is more difficult than it sounds because it requires that the trainer be able to adjust their methods according to the individual dog (breed, temperament, size etc)

Although some trainers start out in a particular field such as Sport Dog Training, or Police Dog Training, and then move on to Pet Dog Training, this requires an addition to their education. Unfortunately many of these types never get that education and try to apply their old techniques that may have been applicable on a Sport Dog (take shock collars for instance) a clients pet Maltipoo. In our opinion, the best education that a Pet Dog Trainer can get is working for another Pet Dog Trainer for a minimum of one to two years. It is true that there are courses around that offer certification in training but few of them provide any substantial experience with numbers of dogs.

So where do you start when looking for a Pet Dog Trainer for your dog? As with most services a word of mouth recommendation from someone who has already used a particular trainer and was satisfied with the service is best. Asking your veterinarian, groomer, or other pet professional for a

recommendation would be second. Whether or not you get such a recommendation you can start with an Internet search in your area to narrow down the possibilities. Call several places but make sure you have a list of questions prepared ahead of time that you ask all of them. This helps you narrow down your field of possibilities by comparing the same issues rather than different ones. If the web sites have already given you the answers to certain questions you don't need to ask them unless you have a reason to doubt the information. Here are some critical questions you should always ask and receive satisfactory answers to:

1. How long have you been in the business of Pet Dog Training?

Make sure that you are clear that you are asking about the BUSINESS not about how long the

person has been training dog, or combined experience with their staff. This is important to

know for two reasons. First, you don't want your dog to be an experiment for an inexperienced trainer. Everyone started somewhere but I don't know a single client that wants to volunteer to

be the a first where their PET is concerned. Also, you want to be as sure as possible that your

trainer will be there for you when you come back for help or more training at a later date. Many

dog trainers hang their shingle and then go out of business in 2-5 years due to a lack of

experience in running a business or other factors.

2. What kind of methods do you use and how did you develop them?

There are three main schools of thought in dog training. The person you are talking with will

likely reveal their methods right away by how they describe them to you. First at the far left

of the spectrum you have your head halter and click and treat style trainers. These methods

are generally best suited to dogs with naturally subordinate natures. This method relies on

the giving and withholding of reward as a base method with the clicker to "mark" the correct

behavior. While there is nothing "wrong" with this method it does not work well for producing

practical daily behavior in a large number of dogs. It is best used as an introduction to commands

with young puppies and dogs with compliant temperaments. People are usually not willing to have

a clicker on them at all times. In addition head halters may look more humane than training collars

but if they are not used properly they can wrench or even break a dogs neck. Head halters

are good for controlling the head of a dog who may be aggressive, or an extreme puller but

there are other methods that work for these situations as well.

The second school of thought is the better known training collar method which can include

various types of collars dependent on the needs of the dog. Standard jerk and release training

methods are applied here. Generally ritual behavioral parameters will be set for the dog

around the house and corrections utilizing sound, taste, and smell associations will also be

applied. There should never be abuse such as kicking, hitting, or hanging, associated with

this method. There should be reward associated with this method as well. Such rewards

can be intermittent food, toy, verbal, and physical praise. This is a centrist style of training.

The third and final style of training is the far right extreme of using a shock collar as the basis

or part of Pet Dog Training. Shock collars are tempting to people simply because you push a

button to to correct the dog and do not need the physicality of using a manual correction.

The basic problem with this is that shock tends to make such an impression on the dog that

it effect the entire nervous system. Dogs with weak nervous systems to begin with can become

extremely nervous anticipating the next shock and can shut down all together. It is a sad

fact that the same pets store chains that will not allow their "trainers" to us any sort of correction

for fear of legal repercussions will sell a shock collar to an unsuspecting customer in a heart beat

simply because it is a high ticket item.

It is true that there are uses for shock collars in more advanced applications such as sport and

police dogs but the difference here is that they are utilized in most cases by seasoned trainers

and not shock happy owners who have no understanding of the proper use of this device, let

alone the consequences of using it on the wrong dog or improperly. It is our opinion that shock

should never be used by Pet Dog Owners. The possible exception to this rule is extreme dog on

dog aggression. Even in this situation the collar should be first utilized by the trainer, and the follow up training with the owner should be extensive.

3. Once you determine the method that is right for you a type of training must be selected.

There are 4 basic types of training available: Group Classes, Private On Field, Private In

Home, and In Kennel Training (this should always be followed up by lessons for the owner

preferably on the trainers field and in your home).

Group Classes: The least expensive but typically also the least effective. The reason that group

classes are less effective is that you share time with several other people and dogs. There is

also a high drop out rate due to the fact that life happens, people get ill, something comes up

with the kids etc., and the class goes on without you. Past a certain point it is hard to rejoin the

class.

Private On Field: One step above group classes is Private On Field. These are generally offered

at the trainers field once per week but the lesson is strictly for you and your dog. Like group

classes there is very little if any problem solving because the trainer is never in your home.

The good thing about Private Field Lessons is that they are yours and therefore can be rescheduled

in most cases if you are ill or find yourself otherwise engaged. Because the trainer doesn't have to

drive to your location this is less expensive than In Home Lessons.

In Home Training: This form of training works well for problems and manners around the home

because the trainer is there in your environment to help you with these issues. As with the two

courses outlined above the training depends almost exclusively on your following your homework with

the dog daily. This training is more expensive than the courses above because it is based on

your convenience and the trainer driving to your home each week.

In Kennel Training: This form of training is the most popular with extraordinarily busy people.

It has all of the instant gratification that people want. You drop your dog off at a kennel facility,

and pick him up 3-4 weeks later trained. But it is not really that easy! First you need to make sure of the facility that you are intrusting your dog to. Make sure that the trainer actually owns

the facility or you may end up with a disappearing trainer or worse a disappearing dog if the owner

of the kennel and the trainer part ways. In addition, the trainer in this situation is only at the

kennel for a brief amount of time each day and your dog is actually being cared for most of the

day by the staff of the kennel. Since the trainer has no say in the employees performance they

can be undoing the training as fast as the trainer is training. Contrast this to the trainer who

owns the facility and is responsible for 100% of the care your dog gets. In this situation you

know who is the bottom line in responsibility for your dog, and you know that your trainer isn't

going anywhere anytime soon because kennel facilities tend to cost hundreds of thousands if

not millions.

An in kennel course should always be followed by field and preferably in home lessons for the

owner. This is crucial to the success of the owner living with the dog. The owner may wish to

have a push button dog when the trainer is finished but the reality is that the training is just

fast tracked for the owner. It is still the owners responsibility to work the dog and establish

parameters for the dogs behavior within the home environment. This can be facilitated by the

trainer but cannot be accomplished by the trainer alone.

Choosing the right type of course for you has allot to do with your own temperament and trainability

and that of your dog. As funny as that sounds it is really true. Any trainer will tell you that it is much harder to train the human end of the leash than it is the dog. Your trainer should always

want to evaluate your dog and sit down and speak with you in a consultation before helping you

decide what is right for you. Beware of people that will quote you an exact price and time frame

over the phone. How do they even know if your dog is trainable? Not all dogs are. Dogs can have

genetic issues or medical issues that render them untrainable or at least requires them to visit

their veterinarian prior to starting training. Your trainer should council you as to what type of

training is right for your particular schedule and your dogs particular issues.

One final word about interviewing potential trainers. Do so with finesse. Don't approach this

process as though you were interrogating the trainer. A good trainer should not mind answering

your questions but the conversation should have the tone of give and take. The trainer may want

to ask you some questions about yourself and the dog as well. If you approach the trainer in a

fashion that is one sided they may assume that you are a competitor doing a competition survey.

This is quite common in the business and questions that are overly sophisticated may set off the

alarm bells with the person you are speaking to. It is much more pleasant for everyone concerned

if you go about your interview by having a pleasant conversation.

For more information on how to select a trainer I suggest reading my latest book:

Dog Training 101- The Book You Need To Take Control

You can purchase it on Amazon.com or visit my web site at:

http://www.K-9Companions.com

Karen Duet is co-owner of K-9 Companions Dog Trainng and K-9 Security & Detection Int'l LLC. She is the author of 4 internationally recognized books on dog training: Dog Training 101, Advanced Schutzhund (nominated for a Maxwell Award), The Business Security K-9, and The Home & Family Protection Dog. She can be reached through her web site at: http://www.K-9Companions.com

Adopting an Adult Dog!

Adopting an adult dog, is a wonderful thing to do. Our animal shelters are filled with beautiful and loving dogs that are in dire need of a home.

If you are looking for a dog to adopt and do not want to go through the puppy stage, look for an adult dog. Many of them are well trained and some are not. But, with an adult dog the chances of having a dog that with love, you can train quite easily, is a good bet.

One of the things, that is the most important is, if you are a family, the whole family should be involved in the process of adopting the dog. This way everyone has a voice in choosing the right pet for the family.

Choose wisely, taking under consideration the family's routine and schedules. The more prepared you are before you take the dog home, as far as schedules and distribution of duties concerning the care of the dog, the better the whole experience will be.

When you find the dog of your choice, play it cool when you first meet, let the dog set the tone for the meeting. Some dogs prefer quiet greetings and others might go for a bit louder and wilder type of greeting.

Keep in mind that when dogs meet each other, they do not look into each other's eyes, they keep their eyes averted, and they also take time to sniff each other out. Not that that I am suggesting you do that, but refrain from hugs and deep looks into the eyes some dogs, may take that as an act of aggression.

Next watch the dog's body language. If the dog stands tall and has a forward leaning posture, it means he is confident and assertive.

If he wags his tail gently and has a gentle interest in what is going on around him, the dog is probably an easy going, friendly type of dog.

If the dog hangs back and appears a little worried, he is probably timid and is lacking in confidence.

Knowing your dog's personality at first will help you to know what to expect from him/her and you can take steps to keep the dog from being overwhelmed.

Secondly, once the choice is made and you are getting ready to bring the dog home from the shelter, make certain the dog is wearing some kind of ID that has your address and at least two phone numbers on it. A new dog in a totally different atmosphere may get scared and somehow escape from you.

Most animal shelters will give you some sort of ID when they hand over the leash. I suggest getting a microchip or a tattoo as soon as possible. Also make certain your new dog is wearing their rabies tag.

Once you have your dog home, do not let him/her off leash until you are certain the dog is familiar with its new home. Even in a fenced in yard it is suggested that you supervise the outings until you are certain there are no escape routes to be found.

Some dogs will bond with one person and seem to stay with that person no matter what, other dogs take more time to bond with family members and need to be supervised for a while.

My feeling is when you bring the dog home, assume the worst, that means assume that your new dog does not understand any of the house rules.

It is safe to say that maybe the reason the dog was at the shelter in the first place was because no one took time to teach the dog the rules of the house.

Disregard the dog's age and treat him/her as a puppy. Dog proof your home; teach the family members to keep all "good" things out of the dog's reach. Make an effort to do potty calls outside frequently, until you can see a routine being established. In order to have a happy life with your new family member plan ahead before you bring him/her home?

Remember this is a new thing for your dog, he does not know you or you know him/her. The transition if possible, should have someone home with him/her for the first few days. If you or a member of your family can be home to supervise the dog's activities and find out how much he knows and understands it will lead to a much happier experience for all concerned.

It will also help with the feeling of isolation and prevent damage to things in your household. Dogs that have had several homes are somewhat prone to depression when left alone at first. They need to establish for themselves that they are in their "forever home.'

If you can get your new dog into a frame of mind to accept being crated, crate the dog and leave it alone for a few minutes. During the time you are at home, gradually increase the amount of time that the dog is crated and you leave. This will then assure the dog that when you leave, you will come back and then when you go back to work, it will not be a shock to him/her.

The same procedure should apply if you are not using a crate and have given the dog some freedom in the house.

Dogs live and love routine and will follow rules as long as they are rules that do not change on a whim. Before you bring a dog home, establish rules beforehand if you are a family.

If the dog is allowed on the furniture one-day and not the next, the dog will not understand and become stressed. Establish what furniture the dog can be on and set it as a rule.


Decide who is in charge of feeding the dog and checking the water bowl.


Decide who is going to walk the dog and establish rules for the time and where to walk the dog.


Who is in charge of potty-training at least until the dog is comfortable in the home?


Where is the dog going to sleep? A dog needs to know and to have its own place if possible.


Who is the primary trainer (though all members should have some part in training?)


Discuss what other rules there should be and how to handle them.


Socializing the dog is very important and needs to be done from the very start. Discuss what methods and situations are to be followed.


Keep in mind dogs need attention, love, toys and training. A busy and tired dog is a happy and less mischievous dog.

Write the rules down and post them in various places so that all members of the family become familiar with them. Training your dog starts the moment it walks in the front door not two or three days later.

Many families have more than one pet and so it is necessary to follow proper rules to introduce the pets to each other. This needs to be done with extreme care especially if you have a cat or other small animal. As dogs are predators by nature and problems could become serious.

Adopting an adult dog is not only a kind thing to do, it is saving a dog's life. If you are not familiar with dogs and would like to become better informed, may I suggest you visit my website, check the dog index and the blog index and read some of the informative articles that are there at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

How to Make Your Rescue Dog Comfortable in Your Home

You have done your research and found the perfect dog for your home. He or she is a shy but sweet little or big bundle of fur. You have brought your dog home. The first thing you do is to let your dog sniff around and get used to you, your family and your house. Now comes the fun part. How do you acclimate your rescue dog to your home and your family? Hopefully, you found something out about your dog's situation before you picked the little girl or boy out. A good rescue society should tell you if your dog was just neglected or abused or both. They may not tell you exactly what the situation was that your dog faced or for how long, but they should let you know how traumatized the dog was.

Depending on what your dog faced before it was rescued, you are going to have to handle your dog with care. In order to get your new friend acclimated to your home and your family, you are going to need to have lots of patience and lots of love. Once the people from the rescue society who have brought your dog to you have handed you the leash and left, it is reality time.

The first thing you want to do is to get your dog familiar with its new surroundings. First of all, take your new pet outside so it can relieve itself. Then come back in and take the dog to the parts of your house or apartment where you are going to allow it to roam and let it sniff around to get familiar with its surroundings. The next thing you need to do is to let the dog get used to each member of the family. Let the dog spend some time with each person. If you have little ones, teach them not to jump or make fast movements with the dog. That might frighten the dog and he or she will instinctively either jump at the person or shy away and perhaps relieve itself on the floor. Teach them to stay very still and extend their hands, palm up, to the dog and allow the dog come and sniff. Then, they can slowly extend their hand to pet the dog or give it a treat. Find out from the rescue society if the dog likes a particular treat so you can make sure you have them on hand when the dog is brought to your home.

Now, the next thing to do is to just relax and get to know your dog. If you haven't purchased a set of bowls, dog food or a crate your dog can call home yet, now is the time to do it. Take your dog for a ride to the nearest pet store. All of the major chain pet stores allow you to bring your pet in on a leash. This is a good first outing for you to try with your new pet. This is a good idea for a number of reasons. First, you will find out how your pet behaves in the car. Some dogs love to ride in a car. Others aren't so good. They shake, whine, shiver, bark and generally are very uncomfortable. A short trip to the pet store is a good way to check this out before you commit to taking a long trip with your dog.

Now, once you are at the store with a good, secure leash on your dog, wander around, let your dog sniff at everything and ask one of the associates there what they would recommend as far as supplies go. We were told to use ceramic or metal bowls for food and water because they would be less likely to become contaminated then plastic. Then, we were told to get a crate because our dog had been crate trained. Make sure the crate gives your dog enough room to turn around and lay down comfortably. Who needs to be cramped? Crates are used to give your dog a place they can call their own where they feel safe and secure. Of course, our dog has chosen a section of our sectional which we have put her for her. Make sure you get a pad or pillow for the bottom of the crate so your dog has a nice soft place to lay down. The only other things you absolutely should get at this time are whatever type of dog food your rescue society recommended and some treats for training purposes. A chew toy or two are also a good idea at this point. Another necessity are doggy potty pads. They sell them at just about any pet store and until you and your dog are used to each others routines, they can keep floors and carpets from having to be shampooed on a regular basis.

Okay, so now you have completed your first adventure with your dog and you are back home. You have spent some time getting acquainted. Now, while one member of the household is busy figuring out how to put the crate together, one of the others should give the dog some food and water. Keeping your dog hydrated is very important. Make sure that water dish is at least half full and it has fresh water in it. I made it a habit to change the water in our dog's water dish at least twice a day. You don't like stale water either, now do you?

If the first type of dog food you get your dog doesn't seem to work out, as in, your dog refuses to eat it, don't worry. Sometimes you will have to try several different types before you hit on the one your dog likes. It took us about five tries to get it right. That is why you should purchase small quantities at first until you find the brand your dog will eat. The only thing you want to make sure you do is avoid anything with lamb meal in it. Lamb is difficult for a dog to digest.

The first day your dog is home with you, it is a good idea to keep the doors closed of any rooms that you do not want your dog exploring. Until you can determine the level of housebreaking your dog has experienced, it is best to confine them to a certain, preferably uncarpeted, area of the house. Put those potty pads down near doorways. If your dog has had any level of housebreaking, it will probably do its business on the potty pad if it hasn't been taken out for a walk in a while. It is a good idea to take your dog out every couple of hours at first for two reasons. The first is to get it used to walking with you on a lead. The second is so the dog can relieve itself outside and not on your favorite rug. You will get to know how often the dog really needs to go out after a short period of time, probably a couple of days.

The first night your dog is home with you can be difficult. I recommend trying to get your dog on the weekend so you are not having to get up to go to work or school the day after you get your dog. It may be difficult to get this beautiful bundle of fur to sleep the first night. He or she may want company because of being in a strange place. You can put a treat in your dog's crate and very firmly but gently tell your dog to go in the crate and stay. Let the whimpering begin! If you are very lucky, your dog will go into its crate and go right to sleep. If not, your dog will begin whimpering or outright barking as soon as everyone has gone to bed. Come back to the crate and pet the dog for a minute to reassure it that everything is okay, then say stay and go back to bed. The next time it whimpers, ignore it for a while and see if it will settle down. Normally they will. If not, you repeat the going to reassure it routine a couple more times and then eventually, it will settle. The first night our dog was with us, my son and I took turns keeping her company. After the first night, she was okay though and settled down and went to sleep without any problems. Guess it was just that first night in a new home with a new crate. Our dog has not slept in a crate in a long time now. She pretty much has the run of the house since she has shown she can be trusted. She sleeps in her own little doggy bed which is on the floor of my daughter's bedroom. This is perfectly acceptable to us, but everyone must do what is most comfortable for them and their dog.

The first days with a rescue dog are challenging as they are with any new puppy that you bring into the house. The dog has to get used to a new routine and new people and is probably still suffering ill effects from the situation it had to be rescued from. Your dog may be skittish, it may relieve itself any time you or some other member of your family come near it, assuming a submissive posture, rear end down on the floor, looking up at you with a pitiful look and before you can tell it that everything is okay, well, there is a puddle on the floor. If your dog starts to assume the submissive posture, grab it and put it outside or on the potty pad to relieve itself. Either that or tell that cute dog to come to you. That is sometimes all you need to do to keep the floor from getting wet.

Your dog may have learned behaviors that are not acceptable to you and your household. When your dog does something that is unacceptable, move it from the place that it is doing that behavior and put it in a different location. Then tell or show the dog what you want it to do. When it responds correctly, offer positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement of good behaviors through giving treats and saying, "good dog" when the dog is doing something you want it to do will keep it from resorting to those bad behaviors after a while. Remember, your dog wants to please you. It just needs to learn what pleases you and displeases you. It also needs help to break negative behaviors it might have learned as a method of survival.

Rescue dogs are wonderful. They are so happy to be given a second chance at a good home that they will work very hard to please you. They do require a lot of patience and love. If you are patient and caring with them, they will give back to you ten fold. After a year and a half with our little rescue, I hardly have to explain any more that she is a rescue and doesn't play well with others. She has developed a sense of self through love and caring and now she is beginning to act like, well, like a self-confident little dog who is well loved and cared for. We wouldn't trade her for anything and we are so glad she came into our lives. Have fun, be patient and give lots of love! You will be rewarded greatly.

Vikki Gigante is a business owner from Frederick, Maryland who has been the proud owner of Cocoa, a rescue dog, for a year and a half now. She is a true joy and a welcome addition to the family. [http://www.ilovethisbusinessonline.com/rescuedogs]

Dog Training - How to Train Your Dog to Pass the Canine Good Citizen Test

The American Kennel Club describes the Canine Good Citizen Test as: "The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Test (CGC) is to demonstrate that the dog, as a companion of man, can be a respected member of the community, and can be trained and conditioned always to behave in the home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs in a manner that will reflect credit on the dog. The CGC Test is not a competitive program, but rather a program of certification; it seeks to identify and recognize officially those dogs that possess the attributes that enable them to serve effectively as personal companions and as members in good standing of the community."

Dogs will be evaluated on the basis of Pass-Fail. In order to quality for the Canine Good Citizen Award, a dog must pass each of the 10 test categories. The dog needs only to pass this test once in order to receive a CGC certificate. Any dog that eliminates during testing must be marked failed.

The commands that your dog needs to do really well to pass the test are: sit, down, stay, walk on leash come when called. The following steps describe the 10 test categories and include tips on how to prepare your dog for each test.

Test #1: A trained dog is a happy dog. Appearance & Grooming Demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit a stranger, such as a veterinarian or his assistant or someone other than the owner to do so.

Spend time handling your dog's paws, brushing your dog, checking your dog's teeth. If your dog has a problem being handled in any way, spend time making it a positive association. For instance: If your dog does not like his paws being handled, spend time holding a treat close to your dog's nose as you handle his paws.

Let him nibble on the treat while you are doing this. As soon as you finish touching your dog's paws, release the treat. Over time your dog will accept his paws being handled.

Test #2: Accepting a Stranger The evaluator and handler will shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go for the evaluator. This is where your dog needs to do a rock solid sit stay. Practice your sit stays as a friend approaches you. If your dog gets up immediately, place your dog back into the stay position. Keep repeating until your dog does not move as your friend comes to you and shakes your hand.

Test #3: Walking on Loose Lead or Out for a Walk Demonstrates that the handler is in control. The dog must be on the left side of the handler. The dog need not be in the "heel position" as required by AKC Obedience Tests.

Test #4: Walk Through a Crowd Demonstrates that the dog should have no difficulty in moving about in pedestrian traffic. The dog and handler will walk around and pass closely by several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers, but should continue to walk with the handler without evidence of shyness or resentment. The dog should not be straining at the leash. Practice walking your dog in a busy section of your town. Go to a shopping area and walk your dog through the traffic. Make sure you have good control on the leash before you attempt walking though a busy area.

Test #5: Sit for Exam Demonstrates that the dog will allow the approach of a stranger and permit petting. The dog must not show shyness or resentment. * Another part of the test where your dog has to do a good solid sit stay.

Test #6: Sit and Down on Command Demonstrates that the dog has had some formal training and will respond to the handler's command. The evaluator must determine if the dog responds to the handler's command. The handler may not force the dog into either position. The handler may use more than one command.

Test #7: Stay in Position (Sit or Down) Demonstrates that the dog will assume and remain in the position commanded by the handler. The dog must maintain the position in which he was left until the handler returns and until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog.

Test #8: Reaction to Another Dog Demonstrates proper behavior when in the presence of other dogs. The dogs should demonstrate no more than casual interest in the other dog or handler. You'll need to attend a group obedience class or have a friend help you practice with this one. Approach your friend and her dog from a distance. As you approach, if your dog gets too excited, reverse direction and get control of your dog. Once you have control, start to approach again. Keep repeating until you can walk up to your friend's dog and have your dog sit at your side.

Test #9: Reactions to Distractions Demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with distracting conditions. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and may startle, but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness or bark. During this test the evaluator will drop something close to your dog as you walk past. Or they may have your dog do a sit stay while someone runs by. If you have spent some time teaching your dog to do the commands with minor distractions you should have no problem with this test.

Test #10: Dog Left Alone Demonstrates that the dog may be left alone, demonstrating training and good manners. The dog should not bark, whine, howl or pace unnecessarily, or register anything other than mild agitation or nervousness. If your dog panics when you walk away, you'll have to spend some time developing your dog's tolerance to being away from you. This can be done by gradually leaving your dog alone. Start by leaving your dog for 10 to 15 seconds. Then gradually increase the amount of time that you leave your dog.

Passing the Canine Good Citizen test is a great thing to do with your dog. Classes and tests are held all over the United States.

Eric Letendre the author of The Amazing Dog Training Man invites you to visit http://www.amazingdogtrainingman.com for leading edge dog training tips, instructional video clips and articles that will help you train and understand your dog. You can also get free dog training updates with a free Smart Dog Newsletter subscription, available at http://www.amazingdogtrainingman.com

Help For Biting Dogs

Nipping and biting are a normal part of interaction among pack members in the world of the wild dog, coyote, or wolf. These are natural ways in which dominance is established and puppies are disciplined by their mothers. In the human world, however, these same behaviors are completely unacceptable.

Dogs who nip or bite can cause lawsuits, earn you legal fines, and even be taken from their homes and killed by Animal Control. Also of concern is the pain and suffering of the individual who is injured and possibly scarred for life . In the human world, the dog owner (a legal term) is responsible for the behavior of their dog. Therefore, it is to everyone's benefit, including the dog's, to make sure your dog knows what behaviors are acceptable and considered "good manners" by the human standard.

This is why taking your new dog, whether a puppy or an adopted adult, to basic obedience class can be an essential part of building a relationship between the two of you. Even if you think you know how to train a dog, training techniques continue to evolve. There are always new ways to handle situations, and some techniques that work well with one individual personality are a disaster with another. Even if you have taken your older dogs to school and now have a new puppy, there can be the added benefit of building a stronger bond between you and your puppy by going to class together. Each dog has a unique background and will interact with you as an individual.

Please understand that I am not a dog trainer and have nothing to personally gain by recommending dog school for you and your dog. I make this recommendation because undoing a problem is much harder than never allowing it to develop in the first place. That having been said, it is important to understand the many reasons why dogs bite. Aside from the fact that this is a natural way of communicating among dogs, there are other reasons why your dog might be exhibiting this behavior and why you may have a problem eliminating it.

- Your dog may be an "alpha" dog and is expressing its dominance over you.

- Your dog is aggressive because he is fearful.

- You have taught your dog that nipping is OK because you have allowing her to chew on or play with your hand as a puppy.

- Your dog wants to dominate you because you or a previous owner have allowed him/her to do so in the past by not setting clear boundaries.

- Your dog may be in physical pain and snapping or biting is a reflex reaction to pain.

There are specific tests that can be given to puppies to determine if they are "alpha" dogs, dogs who want to lead the pack. "Alpha" dogs are alpha because that's their personality. They will not easily settle for being No. 2 and require owners capable of handling this personality type. Good dog breeders will give this test to their puppies and make sure that the puppies only go to homes where that personality type can be managed. However, professional breeders are a small percentage of the places where puppies are obtained. When you take a dog home from a pet store or rescue organization the dog probably has not been tested in this manner. Therefore, if you suspect your dog might be an alpha personality, it is wise to have a trainer evaluate him or her.

There are, of course, many reasons why a dog might bite. In the following case the issue was chronic pain and the solution was acupuncture and chiropractic.

A client called about her elderly Golden Retriever who had never bitten anyone in her life, but suddenly nipped at everyone who tried to pet her. The dog told me she was in pain in her hips and her back. A trip to the allopathic veterinarian quickly revealed arthritis in the spine and hips. That veterinarian prescribed a pain medication, but it didn't seem to help. The situation was resolved when the dog received acupuncture and chiropractic treatments. Because she was more comfortable, the nipping/biting behavior disappeared.

If your dog nips or bites you or anyone else, it is imperative for both your sakes to take steps to identify and resolve the biting behavior. It is not the most loving thing to keep a dog whose behaviors are a problem to yourself and other people. Here are some approaches you can take to solving this problem.

- Have your veterinarian make sure your dog has not developed arthritis or some other painful, chronic condition.

- If you think your animal might be in pain, you can also ask an animal communicator to speak with your dog to gather information in that area.

- An animal communicator can also help clear up any confusion about your dog's role in the family and inform your dog of legal consequences to continued biting.

- Flower Essences can help in some situations and in combination with training and various healing modalities.

- If it seems that the issue is behavioral, get thee to a dog trainer, preferably one who is experienced with aggressive behavior in dogs. Make sure you check this person out thoroughly so that you are comfortable with the techniques the trainer uses.

- A diet change may be in order if your dog is not able to get sufficient nutrients out of his/her current food or if there are sensitivities or allergies to anything in the food or to the food itself. The old adage, "you are what you eat" is true, and poor diet can affect behavior.

Whether or not your dog is an alpha dog personality, telepathic communication can be helpful in clearing up what is behind aggressive behavior. The answers to some key questions may help everyone understand what approach may be most effective in bringing about a change in your dog's behavior. An animal communicator can ask your dog about these things.

- What is your dog feeling emotionally when she nips or bites?

- Is your dog arrogant about this behavior?

- Is your dog afraid? Angry? Depressed?

- Does your dog think nipping is OK but biting isn't because you call them "love nips"?

- Have you assigned your dog a role in the family that is inappropriate for his personality, emotional state, or personal life goals?

- Is your dog confused because you have been inconsistent in communicating what behaviors you expect and desire?

- Have you been clear (from your dog's perspective) about his role in the family?

- Has your dog been given the job of protector and doesn't feel up to it or doesn't understand how to be a protector without being aggressive?

- Is your dog expressing anger or aggression that actually belongs to you or to another member of the family who is not in touch with his/her own feelings?

- Has your dog experienced a trauma early in life or in a past life that has caused your dog to be "stuck" in the biting behavior?

- Is there a spiritual entity or being attached to your dog that is causing him to act aggressively?

While you are exploring these possibilities, careful management of the situation is recommended. A dog that bites or nips should not be allowed to be with visitors or in any situation which can become tense or filled with excitement, confusion, or a lot of noise. Don't hesitate to give your dog "time out" in a quiet place, such as a crate or another room. Keeping your dog on a leash when there are visitors or using a muzzle on walks might also be in order.

Most importantly, don't wait until you are at the "end of your rope" before attempting to do something about canine aggression. Ultimatums and violence on your part won't work very well, and when you approach the situation in anger, conflict is more likely to escalate than to defuse.

Rev. Nedda Wittels, M.A., M.S., is a telepathic Animal Communicator and Shamballa Master/Teacher offering private sessions in telepathic communication and in healing for humans and animals. She also offers Spiritual Empowerment Sessions for people awakening to new consciousness. Nedda teaches workshops in telepathic communication with all species and in Shamballa Multidimensional Healing. She can be reached at 860-651-5771 or at http://www.raysofhealinglight.com

Crate Training is Important for Your Dog's Health and Safety

One of the biggest decisions that a new dog owner faces is what to do with the dog while you are sleeping or while you are out. Some dogs do a great job of behaving during these times, and others have some definite trouble. As a new dog owner I figured our dog would lie down and go to sleep on the new doggie bed we had purchased for her. Boy was I wrong! She wandered around, getting into garbage cans, chewing on everything in sight, and making a lot of noise! A friend's dog chewed up his new bed comforter while he was at work. Some dogs just can't be left out unsupervised. So, what do you do with these energetic puppies? The answer may be crate training.

Crate training is teaching your dog to go willingly into its crate or cage, and to behave in there during the night or while you are out. It has been said that putting a dog into a crate is cruel and unfair. This does not have to be the case. Done properly, crate training can be great for you and your dog. Everyone needs a place to call their own, and dogs are no different. Once we crate trained our dog, she spends much of her quiet time in her crate voluntarily. It is her special place. Leaving your dog out unsupervised can be destructive and harmful to your dog. Your dog could get into any number of things that could hurt him. Keeping him in a safe place while you are away is a much better option. Crates provide security and safety for your dog, help prevent damage from chewing and elimination, make travelling with your dog much easier, and help improve the relationship between dog and owner by cutting down on discipline problems. As long as your dog has been given plenty of exercise and an opportunity to eliminate before going into his crate, then crate time is neither cruel nor unfair.

Your first step is to purchase a crate. There are a couple of different kinds to consider. There are actual crates and there are cages. To decide which one is right for you, you need to think about a couple of things. First, you need to consider the size of your dog now and in the future. If you have a puppy, he is going to grow. You want to try to get a crate or a cage that will accommodate his future size so you don't have to purchase another one as he grows. You want a crate or cage that is large enough for your dog to stand in and turn around. In general, cages are larger than crates, so if your dog is large now or will be large in the future, you may want to consider a cage. Second, you need to consider how your crate will be used. Will your crate only be used at your home, or do you plan on travelling with the dog in the crate? If you are only using your crate at home, then either a crate or a cage will work. However, if you plan on using your crate to travel with your dog, whether in the car or on a plane, then you will need a crate, not a cage. The third thing to consider is cost. In general, the cages cost more than the crates. This is probably because they are made of metal instead of plastic. But the cages tend to be more durable as well, since the dog can actually chew on the plastic crate. The final thing to consider is that very small dogs may do well in a playpen and that very active dogs may do better outside in a dog run.

Now that you have chosen a crate, you need to consider where you are going to put it. Dogs are very social animals and don't like to be put in an isolated area. Your dog will be much more open to being in the crate if it is placed in an area where your family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. I know they aren't the most decorative things, but I am sure you can find a spot where it is out of the way but still allows the dog to feel like part of the family. Remember that you want your dog to go willingly into the crate, so you want the crate to be a pleasant experience. Some dogs do whine or cry when left alone in their crate. If this problem doesn't go away after a couple of weeks you may want to consider leaving a radio or TV on while you are out to "keep the dog company." This can get costly if you are leaving the dog daily while you are at work though, so it should only be used as a last resort if you can't find another way to keep the dog from whining. You will want to place some of the dog's favorite toys in the crate so that he isn't bored.

Training puppies to use a crate can be very simple. You should start by introducing the puppy to the crate as early in the day as possible. This will give him a whole day to get used to it before nightfall. Put a few treats, toys, or some food into the crate to motivate the puppy to enter on his own. If you give him a little while he will probably venture in there on his own out of curiosity. If he does, tell him he is a good dog. The first time you confine the puppy to the crate should be after a period of exercise and elimination, when he is ready for a nap. Put your puppy in the crate with a toy and a treat and close the door. Leave the room but stay close by so you can hear the puppy. I can almost guarantee you that the puppy will start to cry, whimper, bark, or howl after a couple of minutes. This is perfectly normal. This is probably the first time he has been separated from the family, and he will be a little distressed. Never let him out when he cries or whines just ignore him. When the crying has stopped, you can let him out. If the crying doesn't stop on its own after 15 minutes, you may need to correct your puppy lightly.

You don't want to correct him harshly because he will be frightened which can cause him to dislike his new crate. You should try to correct your puppy without being seen by him so that he doesn't learn to associate the correction with your presence. Try using something that makes a loud noise, such as shaking a soda can containing a couple of coins. Most times this will disrupt the barking or crying. You can also try a small squirt of water from a squirt gun. We just used our voices from another room and told our dog no in a firm voice. Obviously, you will need to do this several times for the puppy to learn his lesson. With a puppy, it is best to try to stay home for a few days while crate training so that the puppy gets used to the crate and you can observe his reactions. You don't want to introduce him to the crate and then leave him locked in it for several hours on the first or second occasion. Remember, you want the crate to be a positive experience, so take the time to help your puppy adjust. Each new time you put him in, put in a treat and a toy, lock the door, and leave the room. After a couple of weeks the puppy should be happily going into his crate when told to do so and the crying should have stopped.

Training older dogs to use a crate is very similar to training a puppy, except for the initial introduction to a crate. You will want to set up your older dog's crate in his feeding area, at least for a couple of days. Leave the crate door open and place a couple of treats and toys in the crate. Your dog will probably wander in on his own, since his feeding area is a comfortable area for him. Let him wander in and out for a couple of days with the door open. Once your dog is entering into his crate freely, it is time to close the door. Again, close the door and leave the room, but remain close by. You may need to correct his vocalizations just like you do with a puppy. Gradually increase the amount of time you require your dog to stay in the crate quietly. Some dogs may adapt better to the crate if you place it in their sleeping area and allow them to sleep in it at night. Again, dogs like to have a place of their own.

Once your dog is used to the crate, you can try travelling with your dog. Try short trips first, keeping in mind that many dogs get motion sick. Let your dog accompany you to the store or the park, anywhere that will be a positive experience for your dog. That way your dog will come to enjoy travelling and will probably overcome most of that motion sickness. Once your dog is used to short trips, you can go for longer trips and eventually consider flying.

Crate training can be a positive thing for you and your pet. One word of caution, never use your dog's crate as a punishment location. If you lock the dog in the crate because he chewed up your new shoes, he is going to view the crate as a negative place and will not want to be in there. Always make the crate a positive place for your dog. Then you can leave the house knowing that your dog is happy, safe and secure in his crate.

Eileen Michalczyk is the mother of four gifted children and a new dog owner. When they decided to add a dog into their lives, they wanted to make sure it was a positive experience for everyone. With some careful planning and patience, they are all living happily ever after. For more information on adding a dog into your family, visit her blog at http://darnthatdog.blogspot.com

Thinking - How Do Dog's Do It? Part Two

In the course of writing articles on cats and dogs, I have been asked many times, "do our pets have emotions?" My answer to that is a resounding yes.

Back in the "old days" it was thought that animals did not have emotions or any type of feelings at all, however, science has now proven, what we pet owners knew all along, that our pets do have emotions.

It has been said that our dogs are happy to see us because it means one of two things, you eventually will give them a treat or once you are home from work, dinner cannot be far off. Everyone knows dogs love to eat.

After many decades of work, scientists having spent time delving into neuroscientific research now understand that dogs experience emotions similar to that of their owners.

Dogs do experience happiness, enjoyment, affection, confusion, pride, embarrassment, anxiety, depression, anger, surprise and even such emotions as distrust and resignation.

The more positive emotions a dog experiences, the better it is at handling problem solving, coordination and social relationships with people and other animals. While negative emotions help protect a dog from situations that may be dangerous or threatening.

Interestingly enough, a dog's emotional brain structure is very similar to ours. Emotions in both humans and dogs are controlled by the limbic system, which is a complex part located in the center of the brain.

The limbic system is composed of several parts:


The amygdala - a place where fear and aggression is generated.

The hipppocampus - related to memory.

The hypohalamus - the center for controlling and stimulating the secretion of hormones throughout the body.

Parts of the cerebral cortex - which organizes behavior and contributes to pleasure.

The endocrine system is closely linked to the limbic system and produces and releases hormones, not only to the limbic system, but also to the autonomic nervous system, which is responsible for the fight or flight responses.

This neurological connection brings forth-physical responses from your dog. It causes your dog to be happy and excited when you come home and the secretion of hormones may make your dog hungry or thirsty.

If you have a close relationship with your dog, you are able to see a reflection of emotions that are evident in your dog's facial expressions and movements. A wagging tail, excited posture and position of the ears and expression in the eyes will show you, how happy your dog is to see you.

Dogs have an uncanny way of imitating us with their facial expressions, it is easy to tell a questioning or not understanding look, a wrinkled forehead of a worried dog, the blazing eyes of an angry dog or the soft adoring gaze as our dog looks at us. Some people will swear that their dogs smile and laugh with them. It is possible, you know.

Dogs can use their voices to show emotion too, they can squeal with pleasure, whine to get your attention, and bark when annoyed. They can cry in pain and show frustration by whining and even sigh just as humans do, when bored or lonesome. All these actions and reactions are controlled by the limbic system.

Science has found that even tail wagging is more complex than just a movement for pleasure.

It seems that humans, dogs, birds, fish and frogs are left-right brained that means the left brain controls the right side of the body and the right brain controls the left side of the body. Our left brain is associated with positive reactions and the right brain with negative avoidance reactions.

So in tail wagging, it appears that happy tails wag more to the right side, strangers or cats cause the tails to wag only a little to the right and a strong or dominant dog appearing on the scene will cause the tail to move predominantly to the left. Why? Because the right brain is telling the dog to avoid this association if at all possible - the left side is showing a negative reaction to the other dog.

A dog's emotions can be labeled into two categories, one that produces beneficial responses and the other is negative response. The beneficial responses are things that provide good for the dog, like hunger, the need to learn and the desire to exercise, while the negative responses produce a loss of appetite, the desire to run away or the need to fight.

Happiness with their life is one of the most evident positive emotions a dog has. Dogs show appreciation for the most mundane things in their lives. In turn a happy dog is very beneficial to our health also. A bonding relationship, human to dog, lowers our blood pressure and our stress levels drop, while our dog benefits with good food, playtime and lots of affection from its owner.

One of the most instinctual emotions a dog has is fear, this emotion is embedded in the mind of a dog and has been forever. This emotion prevents a dog from doing many stupid things like jumping off a high ledge or running in front of a car.

Fear for the most part is a good emotion, as is provides preventive medicine, in the sense it protects the dog from many dangers and helps it to adapt to the environment it is living in.

However, there is a negative side as bad experiences can create negative emotions that in turn create behavior problems, which are hard to correct. Loud noises such as firecrackers or thunderstorms can play havoc in a dog's relationship with its family by creating behavior problems that they are unable to correct.

One thing that is hard for human dog caregivers to remember and to practice is not to comfort a dog if it is afraid of loud noises. The comforting you try to do will only reinforce the behavior at a later time, when it happens again.

It is said, that one of the best things to do, in an effort to calm the dog down is to wrap the dog, using a stretch type bandage around the chest and abdomen or a stretchy type shirt that is tight against the body. This quiets the dog down, as the body will respond by activating the sensory receptors in the skin and muscles. For some reason the wrapping raises the level of noise needed, to a higher level, in order to frighten the dog and thus the dog becomes calmer. I have not tried this, but it seems like an interesting idea and worth a try if you have a dog that is fearful of loud noises.

There is also a product called DAP, which is made up of calming pheromones, it is a synthetic formula, which reminds the dog of its days with its mother. This product can be used to help calm a dog afraid of loud noises and other fears such as separation anxiety or when a dog needs to stay at a kennel.

Another common emotion that dog's can suffer from is depression. Dogs who have gone through many changes in their life often suffer from depression. A loss of a loved one, a move to a new home or the addition of a new person in the family all can cause a dog to be depressed. The cure for this is lots and lots of love and attention.

If you dog is depressed, lots of walks, car rides and even a new puppy or other dog can help relieve the depression. Some dogs will and do suffer from grief for weeks and months.

Since dogs mostly live in the now moment, this type of depression will soon disappear. Once the feeling of sadness leaves, the dog will not remember it, as they do not think of the future nor do they live in the past, dogs are NOW creatures, just like we should try to be. Dogs do not fear old age or death, now that is a lesson we could learn.

The neurons in a dog's brain are continually creating new connections with other neurons and are stripping away other neurons, in response to whatever environmental changes are going on in a dog's life. What this means is that with treats, love and training, we can rescue a dog from any emotional trauma that it has experienced

Dogs and humans share many emotions and this is why we enjoy their companionship so much. Our views on life may differ and a dog's emotions may be short lived, but dogs can adapt to most any lifestyle.

The plasticity of a dog's brain and our knowledge of the dog's brain allows us to properly condition our dogs to accept the scary parts, learn new tricks and to enjoy life with us to the fullest.

If this article has been of benefit, please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

Electronic Dog Training

Once people become familiar with electronic training products and use them properly, they find the methodology is proven, efficient, economical, and ethical.

The type of training in which an electronic aid is used is critically important, for it will influence the type of product and methods used. Is the equipment being used to teach a new obedience command, correct some common misbehavior, or is it being used to reinforce another electronic training methodology?

Factors affecting success Before an electronic training tool is used, it is strongly suggested that the entire training situation be re-examined. There are three major considerations in this re-evaluation:

Does the owner know what he is doing, does he understand the training process, and can he apply proper methodology to a specific situation? Is the owner training the dog properly, does he have a plan for this specific misbehavior, and is he executing that plan appropriately and correctly? Is the dog trainable? Is the dog in question stubborn, set in his ways, or unintelligent?

(We believe that all dogs are trainable. Dogs that seem stubborn, or unintelligent, have simply not been trained properly, consistently, or effectively.)

Of these factors, the first two are most important. If training is not successful, in most cases it is because owner education, preparedness, consistency or commitment is lacking. This may be difficult for some owners to accept, but remember that we have invited dogs into our environment. It is our responsibility to teach them in ways they can understand. This is incredibly important, because if an owner has not taken the time, or applied the appropriate techniques properly and consistently, training with an electronic product will not make a difference. It will only confuse even the smartest dog.

There are certain signals that suggest a dog has not been properly trained. In these instances a dog may:

Resist when his owner attempts to place a collar around his neck. Withstand correction, of any type, in the presence of certain distractions Control his owner by acting timid or by ignoring his owner Panic when he senses a warning. Attempt to escape when receiving a correction Do anything except the behavior necessary to avoid the correction.

Education is the key. If an owner takes the time to understand electronic training - why it works, how it works, how to apply the appropriate techniques - it can be a beneficial tool.

Electronic training requires knowledge and skill Why the concern for proper education? Because of the largest variable in the equation - the owner. Let us face it, humans are very unpredictable, as far as dogs are concerned. The response of most owners to the need for correction varies widely, depending on the dog, the training, the situation at hand, and even the mood they happen to be in at the time. This is not conducive to effective training - of any kind.

In most cases, a dog exhibits a behavior in response to some stimulus or distraction. Owners must be careful not to create yet another, different misbehavior by misapplying the correction, or applying it at the wrong time. And, for the safety of the dog, it is unnecessary to correct it for every little thing. Owners must be selective to avoid canine confusion. When applied properly, electronic training can be done successfully. To help understand this, let us examine how people respond to their dog without electronics.

Dog owners respond to their dog in any number of different ways. They may reward their dog by petting, talking, providing food or treats, playing, or letting them sleep on the bed. The list is as long as there are owners on it. These same owners also correct in various ways, including yelling, hitting, throwing things, the use of a chain link training collar, ignoring their dog, not providing food or treats, or isolation in a room, crate, or kennel. This does not imply that all of these forms of reward and correction are acceptable. Only that they are multiple, and that training can be successful under some of these circumstances. So it is with electronic training.

One of the greatest acknowledged advantages of electronic training is that sophisticated electronics do make us humans more predictable. It enhances human consistency, especially as it relates to correction. It also allows humans to easily and conveniently apply appropriate corrections, even when a dog is not within range of traditional (leash and choker collar) correction techniques.

Rules of electronic training As was mentioned earlier, electronic training operates on the same basic principles used in all canine behavior modification: correction, redirection, and reward. Therefore, it is imperative that the dog understands the basics before more sophisticated training begins.

'Dummy Equipment Effect': Before electronic dog training begins, the owner/trainer needs to be comfortable in the use of the device, and the dog needs to be comfortable, as well. Thus it is very important to create the 'Dummy Equipment Effect' before beginning.

Dogs are highly intelligent and certainly smart enough to know the difference between the different types of collars being used. They look different. They smell different. They exert different pressures on the neck once they are applied. Even the owner/trainer acts differently with the different collars. In some cases, the owner/trainer is there; in other cases, he is not.

Because all of this is true, it is important to eliminate the equipment itself from the learning process. Here is how.

Before beginning to train with an active electronic collar, the dog should first become accustomed to a deactivated collar (i.e., take the battery out). Even if the dog trainer or dog owner is under pressure to train the dog quickly (e.g., the neighbors are complaining), he still needs to teach the dog that the collar is not something to be feared.

The last thing someone wants to see is the dog cowering when it is being approached with a training collar, electronic or otherwise. By spending just a few days introducing the dog to the collar, other problems can be prevented.

General Rules: All of the general rules of obedience training apply to electronic training as well. In fact, they are probably even more important in electronic training. These guidelines include:

Do not train the dog for extended periods of time. Limit the number of corrections the dog receives in one training session and in one training day. Be sure that corrections are properly balanced with reward. Always give the correction at the same time. That is, do so only when the dog is actually misbehaving, not before the misbehavior occurs or after the misbehavior has stopped. This is important because it gives the dog a chance to learn, (i.e., to understand what causes the correction in the first place).

Finally, the beginning point of most electronic training includes the use of a leash, which serves to help redirect the dog away from escape and other inappropriate responses. This, in turn, makes it increasingly important not to correct arbitrarily or out of frustration. As a dog trainer or owner, it is necessary to be as disciplined as you want the dog to be.

The importance of redirection and reward Electronic training combines several different techniques. Applying a correction is only a small part of a training program. Redirection and praise are far more important.

Why is this methodology important? Suppose there is a dog in a containment system, but every day he charges away and barks at a jogger who is running along outside the established bounds. What should be the desired correction? He should come when he is called, stay in the yard, and stop barking at the jogger. But chasing and barking are perfectly normal in a dog's natural environment. Only in the human environment are they inappropriate.

Therefore, if the owner/trainer really wants to train the dog under these circumstances, he must first correct at the appropriate time, and consistently. He would do so using an obedience command. So, before beginning more complicated electronic training, it is important that the dog understand basic obedience commands. The trainer/owner must build from a solid foundation provided by these training basics.

In this specific instance, as soon as the dog takes off running, he would be given the 'Come' command. That way, when applying correction, it is because the dog did not come on command, not because he is chasing a jogger. Conversely, when the dog does obey immediately, he is praised for responding to the command, not for breaking off his pursuit. This is called redirection.

The risks in electronic training are the many variables. This same situation, handled improperly, can have the opposite effect. It could train the dog to attack joggers. A correction at the wrong time may cause the dog to identify the correction stimulus with the jogger. Dogs are known to have fight or flight responses to such threats. If the dog's response is to 'fight,' joggers beware!

Reward: Unfortunately, some dog trainers/owners put the emphasis on correction. Even in this article, the information is weighted in this area. This is because correction is the area where most training problems occur. Reward is a much easier concept to understand and apply. During training, the dog should constantly and consistently be given a deserved reward - preferably praise and petting - for behavior that meets his training objectives. Again, timing is critical. The dog must be able to make the connection between the reward and the appropriate behavior.

Gratuitous reward is also a no-no. The dog trainer must reward the dog only when he is behaving properly. Do not worry, there will be plenty of opportunities to do so. Unless, of course, the dog trainer/owner slacks off and chooses to reward inconsistently; or he breaks down further and treats the dog to praise, petting, and food, even if a behavior is inappropriate.

Emotional and energy outlet: Appropriate emotional outlets also bear some discussion in this context. Obviously, electronic training is designed to stop a dog from exhibiting misbehaviors, and help reward him for what the dog trainer/owner considers appropriate behavior. But if a dog cannot leave the yard, no reward can replace the freedom he has lost. In such cases, a dog must be given other appropriate outlets. This is why activities like running with the dog, or playing with him, are extremely important.

Redirection: Redirection is equally important, if not more so. In many electronic training situations, the dog trainer/owner needs to provide an alternate behavior for the dog. This redirection provides a known behavior pattern that the dog can fall back on, enabling the dog trainer/owner to reward him. A good example of such a behavior pattern is the 'Sit,' 'Get your ball,' or other command the dog already understands.

Have a plan: Overall, what one tries to do with redirection and reward is build better behavior in the dog. But when building anything, it is useful to have a blueprint - a plan that outlines specifically what to do under an array of circumstances.

Because of all the variables involved with electronic training, the dog trainer/owner needs to have such a plan. He needs to know exactly what he is going to do before a situation arises. Because, when it comes to training dogs, he needs to expect the unexpected. But if there is a plan in place, he will know exactly what to do.

The best plans are the simplest - the ones that ask the dog to do something basic. Pick something the dog has done many times before; perhaps a 'Sit' and 'Stay' command. Reliance on an old habit can bring a misbehaving dog - even a frightened or frazzled dog - back into the comfort zone. This will enable the dog trainer/owner to reward the dog, or regroup, should this become necessary.

RadioFence.com is a leading retailer of Dog Training Collars and many other Pet Supplies.

3 Step to Teach Your Dog to Sit on Command

The sit command is the most widely used command in dog training. It is a very easy command for the dog to perform because it is one of the dogs natural movements.

Method one:

To make your dog sit you must do the following:

First, you need to learn the commands.

* Call your dog to you.

* Once the dog has come to you have the pup / dog in front of you, if it does not come close then run backwards until the dog is in front of you. If you have food then show the food to your dog, (make sure the food is only small and hold the food in-between your thumb and forefinger).

Once the dog has had a whiff of the food, move your hand with the food in it over the dogs nose and towards the middle of the dogs head.

The dog should then try to follow the food with its nose. As the dog lifts its head into the air it will sit. If it does give the dog the command sit, praise the dog and give it the food. If it does not sit and walks backward when you show it the food, place your free hand on the dogs lower back as a guide.

Do not place the dog into the sit position. Just gently place your hand on the dogs lower back and this will act as a deterrent to stop the dog from walking backwards.

Otherwise lift the food higher so the dog's nose goes higher into the air.

Pulling the food up to your chest can sometimes work and as soon as the dog sits give the command and reward the dog.

Method Two

Have the dog standing by your left side. Show the dog the food and place your free hand along the opposite side of the dog's thigh. This will be a guide for the dog to sit, but don't apply any pressure with your free hand. The hand with the biscuit will be going over the dog's nose and then the dog should sit. As the dog sits, you should give the 'sit' command and then praise the dog with a biscuit or just verbal praise.

Only say the sit command once and find food that your dog really wants to work for, cooked lamb kidneys is a great treat for the dog in small doses, but may feel a little gross on your hands. Change the food rewards regularly to keep the dog interested.

Method Three

When you feed your dog at night or in the morning. Place the dog in the sit position, before it gets its food.

This is done by placing your hand under the dog's chin and the other hand goes to the back outer thigh as a guide. Place the dog into the sit position by gently pushing up with the hand that is under the chin. The backhand is then used to hold the dog in a stationary position, as the dog sits say sit then praise the dog.

Count to three or five then allow the dog the food with another command like "OK".

If the dog stands before you say the command to eat then place the dog back in the sit position and try again. This time lower the amount of time before you give the dog the command to eat.

Trouble shooting on the sit.

Remember these methods.

Use food in the early stages.

Be fair on the dog, Not hard.

Do not over practice the same command so the dog gets bored.

Praise the dog immediately when it has accomplished something good.

Never loose your temper or hit your dog.

Always finish on a good note.

Make training fun for you both.

Use food at the early stages and wean off to a pat \ verbal praise.

Correct the Dog's mistakes immediately.

Only give the command once and do this as the dog sits.

So we have taught your dog how to sit on command. How about we teach your dog to walk on a lead without pulling our arm out of it's socket.

Go to http://here-is-your.info/dog-training to find out. Also, download my free report on how to stop your dog from barking incessantly.