Basic Training, for Your Dog's Sake

A happy dog is one with at least basic obedience skills. If your dog is doing what you want her to do then you are pleased and that means your dog is pleased. Teaching your dog basic obedience skills is rewarding but it can also be frustrating. Here are some basic training techniques to get you started.

Once you have her attention, the lessons can begin

If your dog is to learn anything the first thing you have to do is to get her to pay attention to you. Start by calling her name and then using a command word like "watch". Use the same word consistently. This way, she will associate the word to a command.

Next you need to keep her attention for a short period. Try some attention exercises. Hold a toy or dog treat near your mouth and then say the attention command word. Each time she takes the time to watch, praise her. The more you practice this exercise, the more time she will pay attention to you. Try getting her to watch for a minute or more. Let her know that she is doing a good job by rewarding her with a treat or exuberant praise.

Basic training for you

When training your dog you need to keep a few simple rules in mind:

- Do not hurt your dog, ever. This will cause her to become shy or aggressive. It will also mean that you are a bad person that does not deserve to have a loyal and trustworthy friend, canine or human.

- If the training doesn't go as quickly as you would like and you start to get frustrated don't let this negative emotion show. Dogs are very good at reading your body language. If you are upset your dog will be as well. It's better to postpone training then to train when you are feeling upset or frustrated.

- Dogs get distracted pretty easily. If possible choose a training area that is free of distractions like other pets, children or loud noises. If your dog becomes distracted during training sessions try changing the tone of your voice. Don't raise your voice, change the tone as in higher or lower pitch.

- Keep training sessions short, around 20 minutes or so, less for a very young dog. It's better to have several sessions each day then to have one or two over-long sessions. If you go too long your dog will be thinking about some other fun thing she really should be doing instead.

- Use hand signals along with command words. You'll find they come in very handy later and it's easy for your dog to learn command words and hand signals at the same time. There are no standard hand signals so use signals that are large and easy for your dog to see, that you are comfortable with and will remember.

- Be consistent. Being consistent is a key factor in all training. Use the same command words and hand signals every time. Make sure everyone who might give your dog commands, husband, kids, use the same command words and signals.

First, it's best to sit

The first and easiest command to start with is the command to sit. Start by gently pushing her backside down while gently pulling up on her collar and saying the word "sit." You'll be surprised at how fast she learns this. Once she sits with the command word, and you have a free hand, start using the hand signal as well.

The usual hand signal for "sit" is to point at the ground with your fingers extended downward. Every time you say the command word "sit", point at the ground simultaneously. Your dog will learn the voice command and the hand signal command at the same time.

If your dog is very young try the treat approach to the sit command. Hold a treat in your hand and then slowly move the treat over your puppy's head. The intention is to get the puppy to smell the treat and follow it with her nose. She has two options. She can either walk backwards or sit down. It's easier to sit down. When she sits say the command word, give her the hand signal, praise her to the moon and stars and give her the treat.

Jumping up and lying down

The "down." command is very important for your dog to learn. Dogs become excited sometimes and jumping up on you and other people is often the result.

When your dog jumps up tell her "down". Don't pet her or act glad to see her she while she is on you. Continue to tell her "down" until she does so. You may have to physically place her on the floor while repeating the word "down".

You can take this command a step further by gently pushing your dog onto her belly on the ground while repeating the command word. With repetition she will eventually learn to lie down on command.

The usual hand signal for this command is to hold your hand out flat and then repeatedly move it downward a few inches like you would if you were trying to shove one more thing into an over-full suitcase.

Teaching the "stay" command

Teaching your dog to stay on command can be a tough one and you will have to be very patient. It's an important command though and could save your dog's life if you encounter a dangerous situation. It's best if your dog is already good with the sit command before you start teaching this one.

Have your dog sit or lie down. Say the word "stay" and hold your hand palm out right in front of your dog's nose. Praise her lavishly. Do this many times.

Now, give your dog the stay command and move backward away from her a short distance, three or four feet. When she starts to get up, and she will, hold your hand out at arms length, palm out and say, "stay", emphatically. Have her sit again and repeat the whole process. Eventually she'll get the idea. She won't stay for long though so when she looks like she is about to stand up give her permission to do so by saying a release command. I use the word "okay" and a thumb up gesture for a hand signal.

Once she stays sitting when you are a few feet away you can start reinforcing the command with treats or toys. Put a treat in your pocket and have your dog sit and stay. Take the treat out of your pocket and put it on the ground in front of you. She will immediately start to get up. Hold out your hand, tell her to "stay", put the treat back in your pocket.

Keep doing this with patience and good humor until she stays even though the treat is on the ground in front of you. Then pick up the treat and carry it to your dog, don't let her come to the treat. Let her have her treat and praise her with lavish enthusiasm. Give her the release command and then go have some fun with her. Do this many times.

If you are patient and consistent with this one you'll be able to train your dog to stay put for a long time even though you are nowhere to be seen.

The "come" command

If everyone would teach their dogs to come on command it would save a lot of shouting, frustration and neighborly angst. The pity is that it's quite an enjoyable command to teach your dog because you get to move around a lot.

Start off simply. While attached to a leash about six feet in length have your dog sit and stay. Walk away the length of the leash being sure not to tug on your dog at all. Turn to face her, say "come", gesture with the come hand signal and gently reel her in with the leash until she is right in front of you. Slather on the praise. The usual "come" hand signal is to stretch your arm out straight in front of you and then move it back to your chest by bending your elbow.

She may be a little confused at first because she thinks she is supposed to stay but be enthusiastic and she'll get the idea that this is a new command. Once she comes to you have her sit and stay again, move away from her and do all again. Every time you have her in front of you lay on the praise.

You will have to repeat this procedure many times. Once you think she has the idea give her the come command and signal but don't pull on the leash. If she comes to you make sure she knows that she is the smartest and best looking dog in the world.

Once she will consistently come to you without any tugging on the leash take the leash off and practice some more, practice a lot more.

The real challenge with this command is to have your dog come to you even when she is a long way off and there are other things she would rather be doing. The solution is a very long leash.

Buy a hundred foot spool of thin lightweight nylon cord and practice the procedure in an open field. Start from about ten feet away and slowly increase the distance. Once she comes to you consistently from a distance you can set up distractions. Have a couple friends a toss a ball back and forth near your dog and then start the whole procedure again.

When you are confident that your dog understands the come command it's time to test her training off leash. There is a good chance she'll ignore your command. Put the leash back on, practice from a short distance, take the leash off and again practice from a short distance. Gradually increase the distance. Be patient and kind.

Never, ever reprimand your dog after she has come to you!

Your dog will associate a reprimand with the last thing you told her to do, not something she did before that. Say you see your dog ripping up your neighbor's flowerbed. You command her to come. She does so and then when she gets there you speak harshly to her for ripping up the flowerbed. She will not understand that you are upset because she was damaging your neighbor's flowers, she'll think your upset because she came to you as commanded and will be very confused. Reprimanding your dog after she has obeyed a command is a great way to make your dog neurotic and to destroy all the training she's had.

Giving your dog basic obedience training is just about the best thing you can do for her and for yourself. Your dog wants to please you. If she is well trained and knows the rules she will be able to please you all the time and that will make her very happy. Training your dog is fun and easy if you remember to liberally apply the three key training components, be kind, be patient, be consistent.

Best Wishes,

Discover how you can reduce vet fees and keep your dog healthy and happy? http://dogandpuppyhealth.com/guide Get free dog health and dog training information at http://dogandpuppyhealth.com

Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy's den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special "treats" is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog's purpose for the crate is that it becomes his "den" you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den - a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog's regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you're having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite "potty pattern": when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her "potty area". Right from the start I began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten - back outside. Family social hour - back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn't have to clean up a single "accident" with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don't expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe "chewy" items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their "den", their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog's private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it's a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy's behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can't control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog's confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he's learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're certain that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

C. Anne is the author of multiple articles related to the care and nurture of domestic pets. She is an advocate of training by "Positive Reinforcement" and a campaigner against all forms of animal abuse and exploitation.

To visit C. Anne's pet blog Click ==> http://4petsonline.com

Breaking Your Dog of Destructive Chewing

As the lead behavior modification trainer at a Professional Dog training facility, my primary responsibility when a new dog arrives at our kennels is to evaluate the specific needs of the owner as well as the reasons for the behavior exhibited by the dog. One of the primary concerns I hear from owners requesting behavior modification training for their dog, is destructive chewing. Below are some steps that you can take on your own to correct this behavior.

The first thing that I do when beginning behavior modification training with a dog is start with a foundation of Basic Obedience. Basic obedience is the solid foundation for any kind of training because it teaches dogs the very fundamentals of a dog and human relationship. The most important rule in training, as well as a daily relationship with your dog is to be sure that you and your dog understand each other. You want to be sure that your dog knows that you are in control, that you are the alpha of the relationship, that you are trustworthy, fair and dependable. Because we cannot speak to our dogs and have them understand our every word, we have to put things in a language that they can understand, and be sure that they understand it before we expect results. Basic obedience is the foundation for this communication. In basic obedience we teach the very fundamentals, walking at your side on leash, sitting, staying there until told to get up, laying down on a dog bed when asked, etc.

These very simple and basic commands tell your dog that you are in control, that you are going to ask them to do some things and you expect your dog to follow your directions. This foundation also teaches your dog how to follow your directions, how to understand the new language that you are creating. When doing behavior modification training, I always begin with a three to four week basic obedience course. In order to correct destructive chewing I suggest that you begin with this course as well. If your dog already responds well to commands such as sit, lay down, can walk on a leash without pulling you then you have a strong foundation to begin modification training. Although if you find that these simple commands escape your dog, you should begin with Basic obedience before attempting to tackle any kind of behavior modification.

Next, in order to effectively tackle destructive chewing you need to figure out what kind of "Chewer" your dog is. There are three basic reasons that a dog becomes a destructive chewer and each has different strategies behind correcting the behavior. The most common kind of destructive chewer is a dog that chews out of anxiety. An anxious chewer chews on different kinds of items, items that are really important to you, items that are not so important to you, items you had under your bed for years but forgot about, but this kind of chewer does not seek out a particular item, or only items he/ she knows are important to you. An anxious chewer typically chews during obviously stressful situations, during a car ride, when you leave the house, if he's not getting enough exercise, when visitors come to the house, if he is closed in a room without you. Anxious chewing can be one of the easiest chewing types to correct, although some anxious chewers can take a lot of work, but if you are committed to a long, loving relationship with your pet, it will be well worth it.

The second kind of chewer is the teething chewer. Labrador Retrievers are famous for producing this kind of chewer. Even after official puppy-hood has come and gone, this chewer just keeps on going! This chewer is also not particular about what he chews on, anything that is available to him. You often find that this kind of chewer takes up his favorite hobby when he is bored, when he is not distracted by your interaction, when he is left alone, or even sometimes when you are in the room next to him but not paying attention. This kind of chewer is usually the easiest to break. He finds that he chews simply because the pressure feels good on his gums and teeth, also common among working breeds because these dogs find themselves with nothing to.. well, work on. Cleaning, massaging their teeth and gums while effectively "working" seems like a good way to spend their time. With some simple training tips, this kind of chewer is usually modified within a few days to a week, with the right amount of time and effort put into correcting the behavior.

Finally, the third kind of chewer is the dominant chewer. This dog picks up all kinds of things, but particularly enjoys chewing on things that are valuable, or important to you (your favorite pair of running shoes, your cell phone.. just to name a few). This chewer chews when you are home, when you are watching, when you are away, when you are watching TV, when you are giving him attention, pretty much any time he feels like it. The biggest signal of a dominant chewer is a dog that gets caught chewing and when you attempt to take the item away he growls, hovers over the item, refusing to return it to you; tries to play tug of war with the item, bears his teeth, or tries to take the item back from you once you have removed it. This is your most serious and concerning chewer. This stems from a dog that is dominant over his dog pack, and somehow has begun to see you as a member of his pack, a member that he controls. This is extremely unhealthy behavior. A dog in your home should be a part of your pack, you being the alpha member. It is unsafe and unhealthy for a dog not to recognize you as the alpha. A dog that believes he is the alpha can often times be unpredictable, attempting to fight other dogs, chase animals or children, and generally responds in an unfriendly way when you try to correct this behavior. What many people do not understand, is that dogs do not want to be the alpha. A dog would rather you be the alpha; to interpret the world around you both, make decisions and follow your lead. He would rather not have to think or react or make decisions for that pack, that is a lot of pressure and a lot of stress. Although if he feels that you are not doing your job, being the alpha, he will step into this role for you.

Again, this is very unhealthy and can be dangerous. There are varying degrees of a dominant dog, but many who are allowed to become too dominant can become aggressive towards other animals, and even people. A dog who is allowed to be overly dominant for an extended period of time can reach an age/ state of mind that is considered irreversible by many trainers. Therefore, if you find that your dog fits into this category, the best thing that you can do is seek professional help. A professional dog trainer can start your dog on a basic or even advanced obedience regiment, teaching your dog that he is no longer the alpha of your pack. A professional dog trainer can evaluate your specific dog and give you one-on-one advice, tips and measures to help fix your relationship with your dog. Because of the varying levels and degrees of dominance, one method may work perfectly for one dog owner, and be disastrous for another. Therefore, my advice for owners who feel their dogs fit into this category: seek professional help. Word of mouth is always the best way to find a professional dog trainer, although if you do not know anyone who has used such services, I would recommend a Google search for dog trainers in your area.

The Anxious Chewer

To begin correcting your anxious chewer you will need to start by doing a pretty thorough examination of your dog. Most anxious chewers exhibit other anxious behaviors along with their chewing. Sit down and make a list of behaviors you have noticed when your dog is placed in a situation that seems to make him uncomfortable or overly excited. After you have made your list you will find that there are two kinds of dogs in this category. There are anxiety ridden dogs and there and just chewers. If you find that your dog is exhibiting two or more additional anxiety behaviors, you know that you have some work ahead of you. Some other common anxious behaviors are: mouthing (your dog putting his mouth on you, your arm, leg, etc. Holding your arm, leg in his mouth and putting on pressure with his teeth, enough to make you uncomfortable, but usually not enough to break the skin. If your dog is mouthing and leaving marks or breaking the skin, it's time to seek professional help.) Jumping, jumping and wrapping front paws around your leg, pushing his body close to yours, hiding behind you, urinating, running away, digging, barking excessively, hurting himself to get to you, etc.

A dog that is just a chewer will generally not exhibit these other behaviors, or if he does he will only exhibit one, and not serious enough to be unhealthy. Again, with a solid foundation of basic obedience, most of these additional issues will probably take care of themselves for the dog that mostly just a chewer. I would equate the "just chewing" anxious dog to a woman who bites her fingernails. It is just her way of coping when she becomes stressed. In order to fix this behavior in a "just chewer" here is what I would do: After basic obedience is established I would begin to crate the dog when I was not able to carefully watch it. I would not recommend locking the dog in a laundry or bathroom as this could create more anxiety issues, I would purchase a crate and use this only. (There is plenty of information on the internet about crate training your dog if this is a concern for you.)

An Acceptable Chew Toy-

During the day, when you are not at home, the dog should always be in a crate. Go to your local pet store and purchase some acceptable chewing items, like an indestructible toy that you can put peanut butter or other treats inside, or a doggy tire toy. Do not purchase stuffed toys, or other toys that your dog would easily destroy. When you leave the dog unattended put him in his crate with his new chew toy with peanut butter, or some other treat inside. When you return let your dog out as normal but make sure the chew toy is in a place that is always accessible to your dog. Make sure that any time your dog is out of his crate you are watching him closely. The moment you see him begin to chew on something other than his toy, you say in a loud, firm tone, "NO!" Pick up whatever the item is and take it away, instantly providing the acceptable chew toy.

Remember that corrections should come instantly, within a fraction of a second of the undesired behavior. Your dog does not make the connection to the behavior and the correction if it does not come fast enough. Never correct your dog in any way if you find that he has been chewing on something but you did not catch him in the act. Remember, the point of basic obedience was to teach your dog that you are reliable, fair and trustworthy. Disciplining your dog for something he did earlier, when he does not understand what the correction is for, only serves to break down this established communication and trust.

Continue this for 5-7 days, each day giving your dog more and more time unsupervised. If you find that while unsupervised your dog chewed something up, decrease his unsupervised time until he gets it right.

This should be all that is needed for a dog who only chews out of anxiety. For a dog that exhibits other anxious behaviors you want to begin this regiment, with some others as well. If your dog is exhibiting other anxious behaviors in addition to destructive chewing you have to be sure that your foundation of basic obedience is very well established. Make a list of when and where these specific behaviors occur and when and where they are the worst. Start with one of the places, or events on your list that your dog exhibits low to medium level anxiety. Take your dog to this location or put him in this situation when you are feeling calm, and prepared. Remember that your dog picks up on you, if you are feeling anxious or tense, he will too. When your dog begins to display the anxious behaviors you have noted use the techniques you have learned in the basic obedience course. While on leash give your dog the sit command. If he does not respond, physically force him to sit, while giving the command until he does so. Force your dog to sit down and remain calm, ending the anxious behavior. When you feel that your dog is beginning to calm down you can begin petting him on his head and telling him in a soothing, calm voice that he is a "good dog.. good." Try not to say his name as this can get him more excited.

Continue this exercise for about five minutes a session in this low impact location until you feel that your dog has mastered his anxiety. Through this exercise you are teaching your dog to "work it out". Eventually your dog should be able to cope with his anxiety without your help. Work your way up to the locations and situation that cause him the most anxiety until you find that he is "working it out "on his own. Remember that a dog who is afraid can be more dangerous than an aggressive dog, so be sure not to push your dog too far in these exercises. If you get to a point where you feel overwhelmed, you're not making progress, your dog is getting worse, or you can't handle his anxiety, seek professional help. You do not want to risk getting yourself or your dog hurt.

The Teething Chewer

Because the teething chewer is generally still exhibiting his puppy behaviors well past his puppy-hood the fix for his destructive chewing is going to be.. treat him like a puppy! Do not give him much, or for a severe chewer, any time alone. Keep an eye on him at all times. Use the above method "An Acceptable Chew Toy" to begin to train him what toys are acceptable to teethe on, although even once he has learned this lesson, given much time alone he will probably continue to chew. Many dogs who are teething chewers will grow out of this stage. Some teething chewers on the other hand will not, particularly working breeds. If your dog is a working breed his desire and drive to work drive him to chew. To fix this I would recommend a chew toy that requires work, like one that you can hide food on the inside of. Make sure that your dog is getting plenty of exercise, and time outside, with and without you.

If he wants to work, let him work! Get him a carrying vest for your walks, make it his job to carry your water, for retrieving breeds get him his own ball and make sure you take him to a special place to throw daily. Obedience can once again be a quick cure! When your dog is learning he is using his brain and muscles 10 times more than when he is just running. A 10 minute walk around the block applying what you have learned in obedience can be the equivalent of running 20 laps around a 5 acre field. It can be that stimulating and exhausting. Also, if you have a working breed or a particularly smart dog, make sure that you always have some kind of curriculum for him. Make sure that there is always something available for him to learn, a new trick you are ready to teach him, a new place to throw his ball, etc. Keeping a teething chewer busy and active can be the difference between an unhappy dog causing lots of damage, and a happy, well balanced dog, working hard for his master.

Good luck! I hope that these suggestions will help your chewer. Remember, if you get to a point when you are unsure of yourself, or your own training abilities, your dog can sense that, and is less likely to do as you ask. If you get to a point that you are uncomfortable, afraid or feel ineffective, do not hesitate to back off and call a professional.

Allison B. Sutton
Canine Behavior and Training Specialist
Elite Gundogs
http://Www.EliteGundogs.com
For more information about Basic, Advanced Obedience and Behavior Modification Training, please visit our website and click on the Services/ Training page.

Dog Communication - How to Communicate Effectively With Your Dog!

Effective communication with your dog maintains the pecking order in your home and ensure that you remain the top dog. Allowing your dog to dominate you in any way is unhealthy for your dog (as well as potentially dangerous for you, particularly if you have a big dog).

Failure to understand your dog's behaviour and how to properly train your dog is the cause of dissatisfaction with their dog. Some people will even give up on their dogs and could even abandon them in some instances. All because they failed to properly communicate and undersrtand their dog. What a terrible tragedy!

Actually, your dog really does communicate with you for much of the time you spend together. So not learning to understand your dog's body language is similar to living your life with someone who speaks another language, and never learning to communicate with that person by learning any of that other language.

Two way communication with anyone in your life is obviously important, and especially with your dog who does "speak another language".

Dogs love to play, but their primary concern is often their position in your "pack". Dogs will always make attempts to get to the top dog position if you allow this to go on.

Some dogs do this as a game to see how much they can get away with, (my Kara is like this). Other dogs can actually take this issue very seriously, and may threaten any "pack" member who doesn't defer to them - sometimes even including their owner. Large dogs often like to jump up and stand with their front paws on the owner's shoulders. This can be a friendly gesture, but is often actually a posture of dominance.

A better greeting to encourage your dog to use is to have your dog sit and then for you offer a greeting to your dog. In this way, the dog has assumed a subordinate posture, and you retains your leadership role and your position as the "top dog". And your dog loves this exchange with you. The important thing is that your dog understands his/her position in the "pack".

One of the most tragic misinterpretations of body language I've heard about involves what's called the canine grin. Many dogs, when they are happy and excited, pull their lips back in a happy grin, which is actually a submissive gesture. They are simply very happy, but some owners have actually misinterpreted this submissive grin as a snarl and, heaven forbid, a few have even had the dog euthanized because of what they thought was aggression in their dog.

Isn't this tragic? And all because the owner hasn't taken the time and trouble to understand what their dog is actually trying to communicate to them.

I'm sure you're in the category of people who can understand what your dog is saying, just like me.

On a lighter note, I was only talking to a friend recently (also a dog lover - she has four Jack Russell crosses) about how we often know just what our dog is saying. I was telling her how Jet, my Staffie holds her own with other dogs. In fact, it's a pretty brave dog who will take my Jet on.

Some time ago, when Jet and I were walking past a house in our street where there is a large Japanese Fighting Dog, it escaped and decided to have a domination fight with Jet. I couldn't believe it, but Jet won!!! (if you don't know what Japanese Fighting Dogs look like, they're about four times the size of Jet).

Anyway, ever since then, when we walk past, that dog races to its gate and starts to bark. Then Jet stops, looks directly at the dog, barks non-stop for several seconds and then turns and keeps walking.

I said to Isadora, my friend, that Jet's saying to the dog: "Now, you listen to me ... I thought I got this straightened out with you before - Don't you mess with me!" Isadora laughed, but understood completely. She commented that people who don't have dogs would probably think we were mad to think that we know what our dogs are saying!

(c) 2005, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs

Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in holistic health and wellness for dogs. For your free dog health report, click here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com

For info on innovative dog training that works, click here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/BrainWork

Factors That Influence Managing Your Dog Obedience Problems

Training your dog correctly will reveal a major difference between having a misbehaved dog and an obedient dog. Here are some factors that you should keep in mind as you begin dog training.

If you have no experience in owning a dog before, the training is a crucial if not the most important aspect to be considered when dealing with dog obedience problems.

But knowing your dog needs training and going out of your way for your canine to be trained are two different factors. Where does one begin?

There are a few factors that originate with being an animal that originates from a pack. The important factors when training dogs is that they are typically sociable creatures, used to obeying a pre-determined system and social structure.

The origins of canines:

Similar to wolves, canines are animals that originate from a pack. Therefore, whilst an animal that has been domesticated may have had many of it's original traits eliminated or dampened, some of the original instincts and behaviours still exist.

Being sociable creatures, canines prosper by interacting amongst other canines. A dog doesn't consider you being human but as a dog that is strange, even funny looking. Yes that's right. Therefore, dogs love to interact with you.

Like a wolf, experiencing pack rejection, in the off-chance you do not provide your dog with this interaction, your dog will become agitated and unhappy despite you viewing its condition as part of it's dog obedience problems.

When training your dog, one can implement this approach to punish or reward your dog. Some canine interaction ( for example, talking with an excited tone, being encouraging, or patting) can be an equally rewarding experience as can food 'treats'. In a similar way, not paying your dog any attention, can prove an effective training towards your dog when it does something wrong - and this is much better than hitting them.

Similar to most animals, even humans, dogs like to operate within a system. When dogs recognize what they want, and know the times when the higher chances are of doing exact things, they are comfortable and more relaxed. These canines are aware of what to prepare for and not alarmed by a constantly shifting environment.

Such training would ideally remain confined to one system. The most ideal time for your dog to train, should be chosen and adhere to a specific time, as best as you can. Your canine will soon involve itself within a system of preparation for it's training at a particular time each day in order to be prepared for when it's time to train. If your canine has readied itself for it's training, then without a doubt, it will be easier to train.

It's important for you to maintain your male alpha position at the very beginning. Providing food, interaction, stopping bad behaviour, vocal language and body language contributes towards establishing yourself as the alpha male. If your dog doesn't think about you as the male alpha, they won't pay heed to your guidance and this can create more dog obedience problems.

The alpha is always in control in a pack. In the end, this is the canine that is the protector of the pack and ensures the survival of pack and that is well fed.

As already discussed, typically the owner is viewed as a peculiar dog and even inhuman. In fact, to some dog's you could be the one with the dog obedience problems!

To be an owner of a canine, your role of alpha male must be fulfilled. In most cases it is normal where your alpha role is challenged by your dog's alpha male character.

An example is that in the time you let your dog know your cupboard holds the doggy biscuits, your dog would typically forget inside a couple of hours. But, if you showed your dog where the biscuits were, by having the words 'biscuits' repeated each time, the cupboard would be the first place to be raided. The cupboard may be searched for a few hours every day for the rest of it's life, but this is not the point.

A doggy memory:

Most us are aware that goldfish do not have long memories, but it may come as a surprise to find out that canines also possess short attention spans as well.

In the situation you could communicate something to your dog, there is also the high possibility that for the next day or even in a couple of hours, all may be forgotten. Alternatively the other does have amazingly good memory which means that essentially, should your canine create association with something you have told it, the chances are he or she will retain what it has been taught for a long time from now.

Dog language:

Dogs are unable to speak a dog language and unable to communicate in human language. When training your dog this is a real must to know. As the owner, it is important the right command words are chosen for your dog and yourself otherwise a dog's natural behaviour can be misconstrued as dog obedience problems.

It is important that the command words are not taken lightly or else your canine may experience a state of confusion when such a word repeats itself in the centre of a sentence, which can only potentially create more dog obedience problems. A word that can be typically used more than once in dog training is 'come' command.

A version of slang may well be better to use or 'come here' to be merged into a small word.

Typically, when training a dog, one is required for the topic at hand to have some kind of association with something. For example when one trains a dog to be seated. In the situation where one associates the word 'sit' by teaching your canine to be seated and then providing a treat.

When this technique is repeated several times, eventually your canine will identify your 'sit' command with actually being seated and then being given a treat.

The challenge here is to disassociate the reward and ask oneself why each dog assume a seated position when your hand has food in it?

Most importantly, when one chooses to replace a command with a word one must stick to it and find consistency or else your canine can experience confusion.

It can be annoying to arrive back to your house to find your new PC yanked from it's wiring, and use prepared wording when addressing your canine.

However your canine doesn't understand the language of humans and it's important to remember that he can only recognize those words that he or she has been trained with. In the chance you begin to use alternative words in contrast to tones that your canine doesn't comprehend.

Behavior of your puppy:

Like children, pups have little clue as to how they are supposed to behave in the real world and need to be taught to recognize what is bad, good, nice and wrong.

Imagine for one second someone addressing you with a language that is foreign to you asking for clear guidance to the local mall.

You cannot comprehend a single word that is being said, and its very frustrating. Whose fault is it that they cannot be understood?

Why do you get more frustrated when you cannot understand the words that are being said? In a similar way if your canine hasn't been trained to know what 'sit' means and you begin by ordering the commands 'sit', 'down', and various commands, does your canine look back at you with a confused and terrified look?

A joyful and healthy puppy can be fun to be around, happy to find out all the information that they can. Canines however, are not known for their good eyesight with an ability to view or feel detailed objects.

As your dog can be educated via general maturity process and training, this is important for you to assume a stance of patience and equally attempt to comprehend the direction of your dog's understanding and avoid any unnecessary dog obedience problems.

Over time, the actual time that one has saved with dog training and the final result that one achieves is a properly trained dog for the remainder of its life - approximately fifteen years, and this is definitely worth much more than the basic training course. One can even say that it's priceless when eliminating all dog obedience problems.

One really must be aware as to what one needs to know to train one's dog, and in the end, recognize what steps one must arrive at that point. Personal trainers of canines,canine training courses and canine training guidebooks can all achieve this.

As owner it is your responsibility to recognize that training requirements your dog has, and in the end you must have the ability to complete the steps that you need to reach that destination. Both dog training guides and personal canine trainer classes can achieve this. But by personally training your canine a much stronger bond can be forced. Also in this respect, your canine is likely show more obedience towards yourself, the owner, than a stranger.

By realizing why and how and what your dog does, you may well understand it's behaviour much better. By using this understanding, you can better bond with your dog and train your dog.

A quality system of training with a good structure, plus plenty of patience on your behalf will eventually produce a well trained dog. However do make sure that your dog training is fun for both you and your furry companion.

In the off-chance that you and your dog do not enjoy the training, your dog will never be trained properly. In this respect, training can take an unnecessarily extended period of time and be much more challenging. When dog training begins, it's important to realize that your pup, at his or her age is only required to run and find out more about their new environment. It's also important to have a flexible attitude when training.

If you think you need to improve your ability as a dog trainer, you can find different techniques with a quality online dog training course.

'The Art of Effective Dog Training' is one such easy-to-follow dog training guide with clear step by step instructions on how to teach your dog the right way to become obedient and curb it's bad habits and dog obedience problems.

With solid practice of the guidelines outlined in this course you can build a successful and happy relationship with your dog in a way that is right for both of you.

With the right information, training your dog's Dog Obedience Problems can be easy. For the best chance of success, why not look into the top Dog Training Courses available?

Do You Know About Boxer Dogs?

Boxer Dogs Information - What Are Boxer Dogs?

Boxer dogs are great all around dog breeds, distinguished canine and the coolest, most lovable dog out there! Boxer Dogs are medium-built and strong breed that are so named because of its habit of standing on the hind legs to begin a fight and boxing with the front paws.

By nature, Boxer dogs are working dogs. Throughout history it has been trained as:

- hunting dog

- police dog

- seeing-eye dog for the blind

- guard dog

- circus dog

- courier dog on the battlefields during World War

I and World War II

- fighting dog in the once popular sport of dog fighting.

The American Kennel Club (AKC) categorizes dogs into 7 groups of herding, hound, non-sporting, sporting, terrier, toy and working. And the largest breed registered in the working dog category is the Boxer.

No doubt the Boxer Dogs make for great utility dog but the greatest advantage to owning one is that Boxer Dogs can be your most outstanding companion on four legs and great source of personal fulfillment.

By the way, the AKC registered over 150 different breeds totaling nearly one million dogs in 2003. To put that in perspective, the animal shelters in America rescue up to 12 million homeless dogs and cats every year and 25% of these are purebreds.

Devoted and glad owners of Boxer Dogs have come up with a long list of attributes and traits of their favorite pet that include:

Alert

Boisterous

Boundless energy

Brave

Canine clown

Courageous

Devil dog

Devoted

Dignified

Exuberance

Family dog

Fearless

Friendly

Hearing dog

Highly trainable

Intelligent

Intuitive

Keen judge of character

Loving

Loyal

Patient with children

People dog

Poor swimmer

Playful

Quick learner

Self-assured

Smart

Soulful

Spirited

Stoical

Vigilant

Working dog

Wonderful pet

And you can add to the list...

The Boxer Dog's history could be traced back to feudal Germany, where it was a small hunting dog that could tenaciously hold onto a bull, boar, or bear till the master arrived. It was also a utility dog for peasants and shop owners, and even a performing dog in circus.

The Boxer Dogs as we know it today is a bigger breed - a mixture of the German Boxer with a taller, more elegant English import. The era of this modern Boxer began in the 1880s and became really popular in the United States in the late 1930s-1940s.

Handsome dog: Within the canine world, Boxer Dogs are medium-sized dog standing at 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder for a full-grown female, and weighs some 50 to 65 pounds. The male can be taller and 15 pounds heavier.

It has a striking good look with chiseled head, square jaw and muscled body that make for a very handsome silhouette.

The ears are cropped and erect that enhance its hearing - the Boxer most developed sense. It is always alert and vigilant, an instinctive guard dog.

The shortened muzzle makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for the Boxer Dogs.

The coat is short, hard and smooth, and possesses a natural sheen that can be enhanced with rubdowns with a chamois cloth (especially after a bath).

The short coat cannot protect him well from extreme elements of the weather and thus Boxer Dogs should definitely not be kept outdoors. It is a housedog, sensitive to temperature extremes, does not enjoy the draft, summer heat or cold.

Boxer Dogs come in attractive basic colors of fawn and brindle. The fawn varies from a tawny tan to an especially beautiful stag red. The brindle (clearly defined black stripes on a fawn background) can be sparse, in between or dense.

A beauty standard for Boxer Dogs is that their white markings or "flash" should add to their look and may not cover more than one-third of the entire body. Some predominantly or all-white puppies (known as "check") may be born in a litter.

In the US, however, the American Boxer Club members are pledged not to register, sell or use these "whites" for breeding so as to retain the beauty of the true fawn and brindle colors in the breed.

Personality-wise, Boxer is a cool dog that will not bark without cause. Its expressive face - the furrowed forehead and dark, soulful eyes - is a charming quality that sets the Boxer apart from other breeds.

It can mimic the moods of its master and adopting one could bring you 9 to 11 years of joyful companionship. In exceptional cases the Boxer can live up to 15 years.

Boxer Dogs As Pet

Pet Boxer Dogs although low-maintenance, require your consistent attention, exercise, human interaction, consistent obedience training and lots of love. You cannot leave them to their own design for too long or they get lonely, bored and into trouble.

Being a big and strong dog as well as a highly intelligent one, Boxer Dogs need both physical and mental stimulations to keep them even-tempered and dignified while still keeping their impish spirit and fearless courage in tact.

All the best!!!

Warm regards,

Bryan Kinnear

A Boxer Dog Lover.

Discover How You Can Make Your Boxer Dog The Happiest,
Loving Dog Alive, Running Healthily With You...
http://www.boxerdogtips.com

Get free information all about Boxer Dogs at:
[http://www.boxerdogs.boxerdogtips.com]

Spite Isn't A Dog Thing - Separation Anxiety Is

Dog owners, when they get together, will tell stories of their amazing, brilliant, astonishing and misbehaving dogs. How many times have you heard about the pet who, displeased by its owners' absence, left a "present" of the most unpleasant kind?

The truth is - he didn't do it out of spite. Dogs aren't people. People are the only animals that have an idea of "spite," "revenge," or "getting even." That's not to say that dogs don't have emotions - any dog owner knows better. But most will agree that dogs aren't planners - they live completely in the moment - a skill humans can only attempt.

The only time to correct a dog for improper behavior is when you catch the dog in the act. Revisiting the scene of the crime doesn't help. The dog doesn't remember committing the crime. Yelling at the dog when you find the mess teaches the dog that finding a mess is bad. Therefore, in dog logic, it will learn to hide the mess, not refrain from creating it.

If you've been tempted to accuse your dog of "spiteful" behavior because it does leave messes when you're gone, it's time to rethink what's going on. Your dog isn't telling you that it's angry you left - it's telling you it's anxious and unsure when you're not there.

It's been said many times that dogs are pack animals. If you are the leader of the pack - as you should be - then your dog is, for its entire life, a juvenile member of the group. Your dog may be a victim of separation anxiety; it doesn't know what to do when its leader isn't there to tell him.

Now that we understand, somewhat, how a dog thinks, we can use that to create the behavior we want. Crate training your dog is a good way to alleviate many sources of anxiety - both yours and your dog's. A crate, or cage, is civilization's answer to a cave or den. Your dog can feel safe and secure in its den. A crate should be big enough to allow the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. That's it.

Don't project your claustrophobia onto your dog. It likes feeling safe, secure and enclosed. It likes not being responsible for checking out every noise. It's happy when it has no decisions to make. Never let a dog make a decision - it will choose wrong.

There are people who resist the idea of a crate. They think they are being kind to the dog. And there are some dogs who do not need their crates past puppyhood. But if your dog is prone to separation anxiety, you'll both be better off with a crate. If you've never used a crate, or put it away as your dog matured, introduce it gradually. Leave it out, door open. Feed the dog in the crate. Throw toys into the crate for it to fetch. Never, ever use the crate as punishment, nor as a substitute for a trip outside to eliminate. Dogs shouldn't be left alone more than six to eight hours. If your schedule requires an animal to be left alone 10 or 12 hours a day - get a dogwalker, or settle for a cat.

When you begin crate training, only leave the dog in the crate for a few minutes. Have a special treat or toy that the dog gets only in his crate. Many people use a hollow rubber toy with a bit of peanut butter or soft cheese spread inside. Happily tell your dog it's time to "kennel," (the word you choose doesn't matter, just be consistent) and put the toy in the crate.

If the dog doesn't come - go get it. Never tell your dog to "come" to you for something it doesn't enjoy. Place it in the crate, close the latch and walk away. Just a few minutes the first time. If the dog whines or cries, ignore it. When it's quiet, let the dog out and tell her she's wonderful.

Build up the time your dog is left in the crate gradually. Conventional wisdom says that the first 15 minutes are the best indicator. If the dog settles within that time he'll be fine. And you'll both be happy - Fido has no decisions to make, and you'll have no messes to clean.

Hope Saidel is the co-owner of http://www.GollyGear.com, a bricks-and-mortar and online small dog shop featuring fun, affordable and practical products for small dogs. She has trained and competed in Obedience with small dogs for over a decade and is on the Board of Directors of the North Shore Dog Training Club.

Training Your Dog the Right Way - The Basics

In order to be considered properly trained, there are some basic commands that he or she must master. Understanding these basic commands is vital to the well being of the dog, the owner and the family.

Learning just a few basic commands can go a long way toward creating a dog that is a joy to be around. Everyone has seen examples of both well trained and poorly trained dogs, and few people would opt for the poorly trained varieties. Training a dog properly the first time is especially vital for owners of dog breeds that have been bred for their aggressiveness, such as pit bulls, Doberman pinchers and German shepherds.

In addition, proper training is important for families with young children. Young children can torment dogs and cause biting reactions, so it is important that the dog learn how to deal with these types of situations.

The basic obedience commands that every dog must know are - "Heel", "No", "Sit", "Stay", "Down" and "Off". These six commands form the basis of every basic obedience class, and it is vital that you and your dog master these basic commands. These are the fundamentals, and it will be impossible to move onto other commands, or to correct problem behaviors, without having mastered the basics.

Heel

Let's start with the most basic command of all, the heel command. Teaching a dog to heel is the fundamental first step in teaching the dog to walk properly on the leash. The proper place for the dog to walk is at your side, neither lagging behind nor straining to get ahead.

If your dog begins to forge ahead on the lead, gently tug on the leash. This will cause the training collar to tighten and give the dog a gentle reminder to fall back into line. If the dog begins to lag behind, gently urge him forward. A lure or toy is a good tool for the dog that constantly lags behind.

Once the dog is consistently walking at your side, try changing your pace and encouraging the dog to match his pace with yours. It should always be the dog who adjusts his pace to you; you should never adjust your pace to meet the needs of the dog.

The word "No"

The word no is an important one for your dog to learn, and one you may be using a lot as training begins. It is important that the dog learn to respond to a sharp "No" promptly and obediently.

The "Sit" command

The sit command is another vital link in the chain that is dog training. Teaching a dog to sit on command, using voice commands alone, will form the groundwork of much future training, so it is important for the dog to master this vital skill.

The sit command can be combined with the heel command. As you walk alongside your dog, stop abruptly. If your dog does not stop when you do, give a sharp tug on the leash to remind the dog. Many dogs will instinctively stop when you do, while others need to be reminded through the use of the leash and the training collar.

Once the dog has stopped by your side, urge him to sit by pushing gently on his hindquarters. It is important not to use too much pressure, or to push him down abruptly. Doing so could frighten, or even injure the dog. Rather, apply a steady downward pressure. Most dogs will recognize this as a sit command. It is important to say the word sit as you do this.

Repeat this procedure a few times by walking, stopping and sitting your dog. After a few repetitions, the dog will probably begin to sit down on his own every time he stops. It is important to say the word sit each time, so that the dog will eventually learn to respond to voice commands alone.

The "Stay" command

Like the sit command, the stay command is a vital building block to other, more advanced training. For instance, the stay command is vital to teaching the dog to come when called, which is in turn vital to off leash work.

The stay command can be made into an extension of the sit command. Have your dog sit, and while he is sitting, slowly back away. If the dog begins to follow you, as he probably will it first, come back to the dog and ask him to sit again. Repeat the process until you can reach the end of the leash without your dog getting up from a sitting position.

After the dog is reliably staying where you indicate, you can try dropping the leash and backing further away. It will probably take the dog some time to reliably stay where he is put without becoming distracted.

The "Down" command

The down command is another important part of any basic obedience training program. Teaching a dog to lie down on command is much more than an entertaining trick. The down command is very important in regaining control of a dog, or stopping a dog who is engaged in an inappropriate behavior.

The "Off" command

The off command is just as vital to as the other commands, and it forms the basis for later training, especially when training the dog not to chase people, cars, bikes, cats, etc.

For instance, when training a dog to remain still when a bicycle goes by, the owner would stand with the dog calmly on the leash. If the dog begins to strain against the leash, the owner sharply issues an "Off" command accompanied by a tug of the leash. Eventually the dog will learn to respond to the voice command alone.

Edwina Hanson runs a successful dog and owner training company. She is the author of many articles and reports about all aspects of dog training. Click on Complete Dog Care Report [http://www.k9-training-tips.com/free-dog-care-report.html] for a free 73 page report.

Dog Training: How To "Lick" Your Dog's Incessant Licking Habit!

Does your dog seem to spend an infinite amount of time licking himself? Why is he doing it? And how do you, as a dog owner, correct that annoying licking habit? Here are five of the most common reasons why your dog might be incessantly licking himself and the solutions to correcting the habit.

1. Your dog might have developed an unrelenting licking habit because he needs a bath.

If your dog spends alot of time outside, romping through the woods, tramping in the mud, rolling in the grass or wading in the nearest stream or pond, he is probably dirty. So, your dog may be constantly licking himself because the dirt is irritating him! Plus, all that outdoor activity may have gotten him infested with ticks, fleas, mites, or lice. Your dog's incessant licking may be an attempt to rid himself of those nasty varmints!

Give him a bath with a veterinarian-approved flea and tick shampoo. Before bathing him, make sure you brush out all the mats and tangles from his coat or the bathing will make them worse.

2. Your dog might have developed a chronic licking habit because he has a skin disorder.

Some common skin disorders that a dog may develop are mange or dermatitis. Mange is a skin disease in dogs that is caused by various types of mites. The dermatitis could be caused by an allergic reaction to fleas, dust mites, mold or a certain brand of dog food. If you suspect that your dog has a case of mange or dermatitis, your veterinarian will be able to diagnose what the disorder is and prescribe a course of treatment.

3. Your dog might have developed a persistent licking habit because he is under stress.

The stress may be a result of a new adoption, physical abuse, separation anxiety, or even a reaction to a new food.

If you think separation anxiety might be the cause of his stress, there are several methods for solving the problem. Try exposing your dog to being alone for very short periods of time. When your dog has adjusted to being alone for that duration of time, gradually increase your departure period. If you must be away from your dog for a long period of time, while you are away at work, try to find a friend or neighbor who could come over and take him for a walk a couple of times during the day.

Perhaps a new dog in the family is causing the stress? It is very common to experience a period of stress and adjustment when a new dog is brought into a household that has an established pet. One way to help make the transition a little easier is to give your older dog alot of attention and love. It will let him know that he's still a vital part of the family. Just remember that it will take time for your dogs to adjust to one another and be one happy dog family!

Changing your dog's diet can also cause stress. If you're thinking of feeding your dog a new brand of dry dog food, do it gradually and over a period of four days or longer. On the first day that you change the food, feed your dog one quarter of the new food with three quarters of the old food. Add in another quarter of the new food after a couple of days or so. After another two days, add in another quarter of the new dog food. Finally, after another couple of days or so, you will be able to leave out the old dog food entirely!

If you cannot determine the cause of your dog's stress, talk to your veterinarian. He'll be able to refer you to a dog behaviorist who will be able to determine the cause of your dogs stress. If your dog has severe separation anxiety, an anti-anxiety medication might be considered to alleviate the anxiety. Drugs are not a complete solution, however, and should be used along with a treatment program.

4. Your dog might have developed an incessant licking habit because he has an injury that has resulted in an open wound.

A dog that has developed an injury that has resulted in an open wound will lick himself incessantly in an attempt to clean the wound and keep it free from bacteria. Dog saliva has been proven to kill some germs and when your dog licks an open wound, it will aid in keeping the wound infection free.

Veterinarian treatment may be required if your dog appears to be in pain, the wound contains a foreign material and is deep enough to require stitches, is bleeding excessively or becomes infected.

5. Your dog might have developed a relentless licking habit because he has developed the bad habit of doing so.

Some dogs develop the habit of licking their paws incessantly despite them being clean, uninjured and parasite-free!

Your dog may develop the habit of constantly licking himself because he has alot of nervous energy and no way to alleviate the stress. He also may have learned this behavior because he is bored and this is a way to entertain himself!

Give your dog lots of time to play and run and work off any excess energy. If your dog is well-exercised and happy, he won't feel the need to relentlessly lick himself to relieve stress or boredom!

The information detailed above will help you discover and correct your dog's habit of chronic licking. With careful observation and a little attention to proper grooming, training, along with regular veterinarian visits, you can 'lick' your dog's incessant licking habit!

For a free dog training guide containing more puppy and dog training tips, be sure to visit http://freedogtrainingguide.com/

Dog Aggression Training

Why do so many dogs get euthanized when their owners could have taught them not to bite?

When it comes to dog aggressiveness, there are laws that state the dog's owner can be charged and the dog put down if the dog bites someone. Of course, with some serious dog training, dogs can be taught to enjoy people and not be aggressive.

There are a number of reasons why dogs become aggressive. The dog may feel his territory is being compromised, or he feels threatened. A lot of dog aggression comes from lack of confidence and insecurity. Simple dog obedience training will not solve your dog's aggressive problems, only some serious dog training will do the trick.

Dog aggressiveness doesn't just mean biting; it means barking and lunging at people as well. This type of behaviour needs to be addressed as soon as possible to prevent anything serious from happening to a person, child or another dog.

Aggressive behavior will not go away without proper corrective action from the owner and will not get better as the dog ages. The biggest mistake that owners make is to excuse away aggressive behavior for their dog or puppy, and hope that the behavior is outgrown. The behavior only worsens with age.

A responsible dog owner will not tolerate aggressive behavior from a puppy or an adult dog. A well socialized, bred and adjusted puppy or dog will feel no need to act aggressively. A dog that acts this way demonstrates that there is a problem with the dog's relationship to humans. Often it is a case where the dog has been taught (from puppyhood) to act inappropriately in given situations. Or the dog decides that aggressive behavior is needed, when it is not.

Dog attacks result due to the lack of proper and positive training. Some

dog owners employ fear inducing and painful training techniques. Your dog will

see this as life threatening and resort to aggressive actions in order to protect

herself. Others will bite out of fun and when they are over excited. Both cases are mostly as a result of lack of positive training. So if you don't properly socialize your dog with people or other dogs, expect bites any time.

Most obedience and training schools won't take aggressive dogs as most of the places run classes with other members and won't let them be endangered. If you want more information about aggressive dog training, visit our website by following the link below.

As a dog owner, it is very important that you socialize your dog. Socializing your dog helps boost it's confidence and reduces your dog's fear and nervousness in normal

circumstances. When you are introducing new things to your dog, make sure that you have him firmly under control. Introduce your pup to different people, dogs, children and environments. Give lots of praise and treats to reward proper behavior. Dog's are pack animals and view your family as his pack. (Note: your dog must be the on the lowest rung of the pack hierarchy. All humans in the family must be deemed by your dog as his superiors). If the dog is not properly socialized with different people, she begins to view all people that are outside of the "pack", with distrust. You may believe your dog is friendly by observing him with your family. Your mailman may have a totally different view on your dog's demeanor. :o) So get your dog out and about.

At the end of the day what counts is that your dog stops attacking and he starts loving. An aggressive dog can halter the relationship that you have with him therefore you and your dog aren't having the best time together as you are always worried about him biting you, other people or other dogs. I recommend that you do what it takes to get the problem sorted!

Russ Richer is a Dog Lover who has done extensive research into Dog Care. For free reports, articles, and newsletter visit [http://www.dogdaypets.com/newsletter.html] . To learn more on training your puppy or older dog from becoming aggressive, visit : [http://www.dogdaypets.com/catalog/item/2460897/1939478.htm]

Four Things That Will Affect Your Dog's Health

Most dog owners regard their dog as one of the family. We want to do everything possible to keep our dogs healthy and happy. Learning about dog health is important for all dog owners - a healthy dog is a better canine companion and provides more enjoyment. Here are a few tips about dog health that can help keep your dog in top shape.

Proper Nutrition

Good health starts with dog nutrition. Giving your dog high quality food that has the proper nutrients is the best way to maintain the health of your dog. Poor quality food, on the other hand, can actually contribute to the deterioration of your pet's health. Cheap dog food is loaded with grains which have been overcooked so that your dog can digest them. This kind of food is not very nutritious so it has to be supplemented with vitamins and minerals.

Dogs are carnivores, so they need lots of meat. You can also give them vegetables and a certain amount of grain based dog food, but the bulk of their diet should be meat - high-quality meat. Pet food manufacturers are allowed to use meat from sick or disabled animals - all the meat that is "unfit for human consumption." This type of meat is used in the cheapest dog food, so it's worth it to buy the best food you can afford.

Getting Enough Exercise

The next step in maintaining dog health is exercise. Just like humans, dogs need plenty of exercise to stay in top shape. One of the great benefits of dog ownership is you can take your exercise together - going for a walk twice a day with Rover is a great way to keep in shape and get some fresh air.

One of the best things you can do for dog health is to keep him from becoming overweight. Many owners give their dogs too much food and not enough exercise. Overweight dogs are susceptible to all sorts of health problems and live shorter lives than slim dogs.

Preventing obesity in your dog is simple - don't give him too much food and give him plenty of exercise. Your veterinarian bills will go down and your pooch will be happier.

Prevention of Common Diseases

Even with the best of care, your dog may still get sick. Here are four of the most common canine diseases and what you can do to treat them.

Distemper is a deadly viral disease. Dogs can catch it from other dogs through contact with saliva, urine and feces. Symptoms include runny nose, coughing, sneezing, diarrhea and lack of appetite. If you notice any of theses symptoms, especially in puppies, take your dog to the vet immediately. The longer you wait for treatment the less likely it is that your dog will survive. There is a vaccine for distemper that will protect your dog and is given once year.

Rabies is a serious disease that affects the central nervous system. It is usually transmitted through bites from infected animals with symptoms appearing anywhere from 30 to 60 days after exposure. Rabid dogs can be hostile and are dangerous to handle. Dogs can be protected from rabies with an annual vaccination.

Leptospirosis is caused by bacteria and affects the kidneys and liver. The symptoms are vomiting, loss of appetite, runny nose, stiffness and a change in bowel and urinary habits. Dogs with leptospirosis can infect humans. There is a vaccine against this disease, and if your dog shows these symptoms take him to the vet immediately.

Canine hepatitis is another common disease that affects dog health. It is a viral disease that is spread through contact with saliva or urine of an infected dog. Hepatitis has similar symptoms to distemper with the addition of a high temperature and bloody stools. Take your dog to the vet if he shows as of these symptoms.

Canine hepatitis as well as all the diseases mentioned here can be prevented by annual vaccinations. It is important for dog health to visit your vet on a regular basis and keep up with vaccines.

Internal Parasites

Many dogs get infected with internal parasites at some point in their life. Internal parasites are commonly known as worms and come in many types. Roundworms can live in your dog's liver, heart, and lungs. They eventually find their way to the intestine where they eat the dog's food. Your dog will be show persistent hunger, have diarrhea and be bloated with gas.

Hookworm is another common parasite. These are very small but are usually found in great numbers. They can consume your dog's blood and cause anemia. Symptoms of hookworm infection are diarrhea, gas, and weight loss.

Worm infection is treatable and can be cleared up relatively easily. As with all matters of dog health, if your dog looks sick or uncomfortable, take him to the vet as soon as possible.

By addressing these areas of dog health you can pretty much ensure you will have a healthy dog for many years to come.

Jane K is a lifelong dog enthusiast with a family of four beloved dogs of her own which provide the inspiration for this site. To learn more about how to care for your own beloved dog – visit her at [http://www.simply-dog-care-and-more.com] Or sign up for K9 Care News at [http://www.simply-dog-care-and-more.com/news-letter.html] to receive more tips and info on caring for your dog delivered right to your inbox.

Dog Parks: Pros and Cons

Dog Parks. What a great idea! Imagine being able to take your buddy to a big, open field and letting him or her safely play and run around with dozens of other dogs. What a great way to provide exercise, especially for those rambunctious, high-energy teenagers that often become destructive and "self-employed" at home when they have nothing else to do. How many of us have come home to torn sofa cushions, shredded plants, neighbors complaining about incessant barking, etc.?

Dog parks can provide a wonderful opportunity for your dog to learn appropriate dog-to-dog behavior with dogs of all ages, sizes and temperaments. In addition to all these benefits, dog parks often offer us humans a chance to get out of the house and spend some time socializing and meeting new friends.

Most people who take their dogs to dog parks are respectful, polite, responsible, and look out not only for their own dog, but for other people's dogs as well. After all, if one dog gets hurt, everyone is affected. And most dog parks are well maintained, clean and safe. With so many benefits to taking your dog to a dog park, are there any disadvantages?

Not a month goes by that I don't hear from one of my clients that his dog or his neighbor's dog was hurt at a dog park. And in 99% of the cases, it all had to do with the attitude of the human. A well-known actor (this is L.A. after-all) brought two of his dogs to a park and as soon as the dogs entered, they zeroed in on a Lab who was resting underneath a picnic table. Within seconds, cries and growls filled the air. People rushed to help the Lab who sustained multiple puncture wounds. When the actor finally arrived at the scene, he simply declared, "Hey, dogs are dogs, they were only playing."

On another occasion, a woman came directly from a rescue with her new 80 lb dog and wanted to see how he would behave around other dogs. The dog attacked a small, blind Pekinese and caused several thousands of dollars in medical care.

In other cases, dogs are hurt because of how they play: some dogs are much more physical than others, resulting in unintentional injuries. Others never learned appropriate dog etiquette because of the lack of proper socialization when they were young. As a result, their pushy behavior often results in misunderstandings that trigger fights.

In addition, not every dog likes to visit dog parks. Older dogs sometimes care less about being around other dogs and are perfectly content interacting only with their humans. Well-intentioned as some people are, they can facilitate problems because they fail to read their dog's body language, which is telling them, "Get me out of here!"

So what should you look for? Visit a park before you bring your dog. Talk to people. Safe parks all have one thing in common: a good park is one where people will not put up with aggressive dogs and they look out for one another. Make sure there is a separate area for small dogs. How clean is the park? Is water available? If you find yourself stepping over mounds of feces, it's a good bet that park isn't for you and your dog. See if the park has a ranger that oversees activities. This is rare but really says a lot about safety.

Once you've chosen a dog park, don't bring food or your dog's favorite toys as that often causes problems. Notice how other dogs are behaving and if play becomes to rowdy, interrupt it before a problem arises. If your dog seems fearful, leave the park.

Know your dog. If your dog displays aggression or fearfulness, don't take your dog to a dog park. You can work on behavioral problems with a trainer but in the meantime, you can take your dog for walks or jogs, play fetch, hide-and-go seek and "find-it."

There are wonderful dog parks out there that benefit both people and dogs. To find them, do a little investigation, use your good common sense, be responsible and keep a watchful eye. You and your dog can have a lot of fun!

Paul Owens is the author of ?The Dog Whisperer? DVD and the book, ?The Dog Whisperer, A Compassionate Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training?. He has been Certified by The Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Endorsed by the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors. Paul is the Director of Raise with Praise, Inc. Dog training. For more information, visit http://www.DogWhispererDVD.com

5 Surefire Ways to Show Your Dog You're The Boss

You Must Be The Alpha Dog

First, let's take a look at what a "pack mentality" means. Dogs are born into packs - in the wild, packs are the essential social order. Unlike humans, who use a variety of political processes to determine leadership and rank, dogs sort out their social order by dominance and power. In a wolf pack, there is a Top Dog - a clear leader who is the dominant, Alpha male. He's the Big Dog, with pride of place at the dinner table (well, if wolves had a dinner table!), first in mating, first in decision making for the pack.

Whether you realize it or not, your dog views your household as his own personal wolf pack. The pack mentality is so engrained in your dog's psyche that he will either view you as a leader - or a follower - depending on your actions. If you are to have a well-trained dog, you must establish that you are the leader, and he is the follower. Your dog has to know in his heart that you are the Alpha Dog, the Head Honcho, the Big Dog, the Top Dog - call it whatever you want, but your dog needs to know you're in charge.

Dogs are a little like children in one respect - they're looking for someone else to be the leader - they want rules and regulations because that makes their role in the pack more clear-cut and understandable. It's scary being the leader - if you're not up to it, your dog may assume the role - because someone has to be in charge!

If that's what's happened at your house, you need to re-establish your position as the Top Dog, or "Leader of the Pack." But here's an important note: being the leader of the pack has absolutely nothing to do with harsh punishment. It has everything to do with consistency and setting limits.

A simple rule to remember (and one people have great difficulty keeping in mind) is that you are the leader, not your dog.

1. You Go Through The Door First

Even something as straightforward as who walks through the door first can reinforce your position as "dominant dog." Leaders lead. Followers follow. If you allow your dog to charge through the door ahead of you, he perceives that as asserting his dominance over you. Put your dog on the leash, and make sure you're the first one through the door.

2. You Eat Before Your Dog

Who gets fed first in your house - you or your dog? In a wolf pack, the leader eats first, and when he is done, the rest of the pack can dine. Do you feed your dog first because he pesters you when you're cooking your dinner, and it's simply more convenient to have him quiet and out of the way when you're eating?

Food is a powerful motivator that can be used to clearly demonstrate who is the ruler of the roost at your house. In no way, shape or form am I suggesting that you withhold food from your dog - that's cruel and unusual punishment any way you look at it. What I am suggesting is that you control the timing of the food - you should eat first, your dog second, after you're done with your meal.

3. Don't Walk Around Your Dog

Does your dog lie on the floor and expect you to walk around him? In the wild, dominant dogs lie wherever they want, and dogs lower in the social order go around so they don't disturb the Big Dog. If you walk around your dog, he will assume this to be an act of submission on your part; therefore he must be the leader, not you.

If your dog is lying in the middle of the hallway, or right in front of your easy chair, make him move. If he's on the couch and you want to lie down, make him move. Don't step over him. Just gently nudge him and make him get out of your way. You're the Big Dog, remember?

4. You Determine When Your Dog Gets Attention

Even asking for attention or affection can be seen as an act of dominance from your dog's point of view. Dogs that demand attention are asserting dominance, so if your dog gets pushy, ignore him. When you're ready to give him attention or affection or pet or play with him, ask him to sit first.

Don't run after him just so you can pet him. Make him come to you when you're ready to give him attention, or play with him. And when you play with a toy, make sure that you end up with possession of the toy, and then put the toy away when you're done. (Note: I'm not talking about his favorite toys that you leave in his crate. I'm talking about play toys that the two of you use for games.)

5. Don't Let Your Dog Sleep In Your Bed

This is a tough one for a lot of people, but when you let your dog share your bed, at best you're making him an equal to you. He should have his own bed, either a dog pad or his crate that he feels comfortable in - you can even put the dog pad next to your bed if that makes both of you happier - but don't let him take over the sleeping arrangements. Before you know it, he'll be trying to make you sleep on the floor!

Again, reinforcing or retraining your dog to recognize you as the Head Honcho has absolutely nothing to do with harsh discipline. These are changes you can make that will change the way your dog thinks about you. And making even small changes like these can have an enormous impact on the way your dog views the social hierarchy in your home - all without a harsh word being spoken!

Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!" To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit: http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj

How Effective Dog Training Deals With Aggression

Behavior modification trainings are necessary not only for individuals but also for canine species. The more aggressive a dog is, the more important a behavior training will be. An aggressive dog needs to be tamed and calmed down to avoid troubles and problems. For your dog to be a responsible member of the canine society, you have to teach your pet discipline, obedience, respect and proper behavior. Destructing, violent and aggressive actions such as snarling, barking and teeth gnarling should be discontinued. These aggressive actions may spell harm not only for you but also for other people. These could also be a threat to the safety of people around.

The best way to train dogs with intimidating, hostile and violent behaviors is to have them subjected into dealing with aggression using effective dog training. Hostile and violent behaviors of dogs also include barking, snarling, teeth gnarling and biting humans and other dogs. Thus, even fellow dogs would be afraid and threatened to be surrounded by these intimidating, hostile and violent canines.

A dog's aggression can be attributed to several factors. The dog owner plays a crucial role on the type of dog your pet will grow up to be. The behavior, attitude and approach of the dog owner will influence what behaviors the dog will be able to emulate. If the dog owner uses physical violence in the training, the dog will also replicate the same aggressive personality. Other negative behaviors of dog owner that may also be modeled by the pet include harassment, constant reprimands and ignoring.

Dog owners are also discouraged against keeping the dog inside a dog or imprisoning the pet because such behaviors will just trigger and stimulate hostility, rebellion and negative disposition in your pet. Punishment should also be kept at a reasonable pace and intensity. Excessive punishment will just be harmful to your pet and to you as a dog owner as well. Make sure you also feed your pet well because they usually become hostile when they are hungry. Aside from the personality and behavior of the dog owner, with effective dog training its essential to remember that the environment also influences the behavior that the dog will learn. If your pet is surrounded by dogs that usually bark and snarl, there is a high probability that your dog will also learn such hostile and aggressive behaviors. If the dogs surrounding your pet always show physical attacks, that negative behavior will certainly be imitated by your pet. So you have to be careful with the environment you expose your pet to.

Most aggressive and violent behaviors of a dog can also be explained in a survival perspective. Most dogs usually get violent and aggressive when they feel or see a threat to their safety and to their surroundings. In certain situations, aggression and hostility may be necessary for a dog to avoid getting killed or imprisoned. A dog may need to attack another dog or a human in order to defend or protect its own safety.

The breed may also place some dogs in a higher probability of displaying threatening behaviors. Breeds such as Rottweilers, St. Bernards, Dobermans and Pit Bulls seem to be naturally wired to be aggressive and hostile. They also have the size often associated with bravery, arrogance and dominance. In addition, some breeds are also cognitively wired to react aggressively and violently when they are faced with an unfamiliar stimulus or situation even though there is no direct threat to their safety or survival. Thus, you should expect a relatively hostile behavior when a pet dog is surrounded by other dogs, strangers or children. In general, aggressive and violent behaviors of dogs indicate an unfamiliar stimulus, previous negative or traumatic experience or being reinforced and rewarded for aggressive behaviors. So, you should think twice before approaching or going near or even touching an unknown dog.

Medical conditions may also explain the aggressive nature of some dogs. For humans, aggression is triggered when someone is in pain. The same holds true for dogs as well. They easily get irritated when they feel pain. That irritation can lead to aggression and violence. Thus, it is advisable to bring your new pet to a veterinarian for a medical check-up so you will already be prepared if your dog has existing medical conditions that stimulate aggression and hostility.

The best short-term strategy used in effective dog training is to stop a dog from being aggressive or violent towards another dog or a human is to distract its attention. You should cut the eye contact from your pet to the other dog or to the human by making your pet turn its head in the opposite direction. You can run in the opposite direction so your pet will also run after you. You can also throw a treat or a toy towards the opposite direction so your dog will chase after it. Since it may not be advisable to remove the stimulus that triggers the hostility in your dog, you have to take your dog away from that situation.

As soon as you start handling your dog, make sure your pet know who is the boss. Make sure you assert your authority and dominance so your pet will learn to obey and respect you. Once the dog has been imbibed with obedience and discipline, it will be easy for your pet to follow your commands. Some dogs tend to behave aggressively because they think they are the alpha leader in the pack. As a dog owner, you have to make your life easier so you have to straighten out the rules and the roles in the pack.

In dealing with a hostile and aggressive dog, you have to be firm. You have to take control over the training. Do not look or sound lenient. When you make rules, stick to them. Do not allow your pet to manipulate you. Always remember that you are implementing effective dog training for your dog to change to a more positive behavior. However, you also have to recognize and deal with the natural aggressive tendencies of dogs. By nature, dogs will always bite and bark.

These actions are their ways of releasing and expressing their feelings of discomfort, fear and pain. What you have to be careful for is that there are no warning signals that indicate that your pet is about to be aggressive. They usually just bark and bite without any warning or sign at all. As a dog owner, you also have to be sensitive to other actions that may just be a cover-up for aggression and hostility such as prolonged stares, whining, panting, pinning of ears to the head, yawning and even freezing in its position. When your pet starts showing these behaviors, try to calm your dog down.

Never punish your dog while it is acting aggressively. Punishment will just intensify the emotions. When you behave aggressively towards your pet after the dog may just condition your pet to act more aggressively and violently. With effective dog training You should also never yelling at your pet. Attacking aggression with aggression will just bring threats and danger to people and dogs surrounding your pet. Never aggravate your pet's fear and discomfort by making your dog even more afraid of you.

If you think your pet's aggression and hostility has gone way beyond your threshold, you can always call for assistance from a professional dog trainer on how to mellow down your dog's temper. It is advisable to deal with aggression and hostility issues and problems as soon as possible to avoid further troubles and major problems. Two of the most common strategies used by dog trainers and dog owners are the time out and counter conditioning. In counter conditioning, you can change the way your dog sees other dogs. Instead of harm and threat, the sight of other dogs can already elicit positive emotions.

The time out strategy is usually used after a dog has been reprimanded. The dog is usually left inside a room for 30 seconds to internalize the rationale of the negative attention from the dog owner. Aside from controlling your dog's negative behavior, you should also spend a considerable amount of time to develop positive behaviors in your dog- this will improve your effective dog training.

With the right information, training your dog's Dog Obedience Problems can be easy. For the best chance of success, why not look into the top Dog Training Courses available?