Understanding What Your Dog is Saying by Reading His Body Language

Although dogs are quite vocal animals, their main form of communication either with humans or their own species is through non-verbal signals or what we more popularly call body language.

Non-verbal messages can be both overt and very subtle; think of the enumerable non-verbal messages you send and receive during the course of an interaction with another human being. In fact human behavior experts suggest that over 80% of our communication with each other is 'understood', by us interpreting the non-verbal behaviors during a conversation.

Our dogs are no different, in fact they are far more capable of interpreting non-verbal communications, in both relation to humans and their own kind. Dogs are body language experts; to give an example, take the dogs who are especially trained to warn their owners of imminent epileptic seizures, these dogs can respond to the most subtle of bodily cues, so subtle, even the person who is about to have the seizure is unaware of.

How can understanding your dogs body language benefit you as a dog owner then? Understanding the non-verbal signals your dog displays both with humans and his own kind will will benefit you in a great number of ways. For example, understanding the unique way in which dogs communicate will help give you a deeper appreciation of the species and their unique abilities. The communication exchanges between you and your dog will 'flow' better , as you begin to better understand your dogs needs. With practice you will begin to assess your dogs emotional states much easier. Training your dog will be much easier also,as you will be able to assess the level of your dogs motivation and responses to various training situations.

Let us look now at the different ways dogs use their bodies to communicate both with humans and their own kind.

The happy dog

The behavior of a happy dog is obvious to most dog owners. In this situation the dog seems light on it's paws, his tail will wag erratically and he will move foreword to greet you if encouraged to do so.

The confident dog

Here the dogs stands tall, his ears held high with a wagging tail. If meeting a person or dog, he will stand head on and make eye contact.

The playful dog

A dog who displays playfulness is another set of behaviors that are commonly recognizes by dog owners. In this situation, the dog will lower the front part of its body towards the floor, and at the same time keeping his back end erect. He will give eye contact and possibly bark in a bid to get your attention, or he may run around in circles and adopt the 'playbow' again, in an effort to get you to play with him.

The submissive dog

Submissiveness can be displayed in a number of ways through bodily signs, such as a lowered tail, ears pinned back, with lowered head. The dog will avert direct eye contact and if called may come but zigzag his way towards you. Some dogs may may display a facial expression almost like a grin, that is often accompanied by a nodding head.This action is a way of the dog attempting appease you, as he may be unsure as to your reaction towards him. In extreme cases, the dog will role over on its back,tuck his tail between his legs and may even urinate.

The anxious dog

A dog who shows anxiety, just appears totally ill at ease. His head may be carried low with ears back. His tail will be partially or full tucked between his legs and he may whimper, especially if further exposed to the stimulus he fears. His anxiety may make him over react to certain sights and sounds, for example a dog who is extremely anxious around loud traffic may hit the ground when a car passes by, or try to flee.

The fearful dog

A fearful dog displays both fearful and anxious behaviors, but to an exaggerated degree. His body posture will be almost crouched, his head held low, ears back and tail tucked between his legs. If he continues to feel fear, he may growl or show his teeth, which is a sure sign he may well attack if stressed further.

The dominant dog

A dominant dog acts in a similar manner to a dog who is very confident, so the two sets of behaviors can be confused. Essentially a dog who so displaying dominant behaviors will have his tail held high, with ears erect. He will face either the other dog head on and make direct eye contact. The dominant dog of the two may try to put his head above the other dogs neck area and this may be accompanied with low growling. If the other dog submits there will be no problem, however, if the other other dog resists, the interaction could well develop into a fight.

If the situation involves a human, the dominant dog will display the same type of behavior. If you ever find yourself in the presence of such a dog, the best advice is not to try to dominate him, for example making eye contact, as this could be taken as a direct threat by the dog, and dominance could turn to aggression. The best way to deal with such a confrontation is to avoid eye contact with the dog and back slowly away from him. Dogs rarely bite without warning, and in reality most dogs don't bite.

The aggressive dog

A dog who displays aggressive behavior can also be obvious. Here the dogs body posture has an air of 'I mean business' about it. Dominant aggressive behavior is different from nervous aggressive behavior in that with nervous aggressive behavior, the dogs seems to want to back away, as opposed to dominant aggressive behavior were the dog in question will stand his ground. The fur on his back may be displayed, with ears pinned back. He will make direct eye contact, although his eyes may be narrowed. His tail will be straight and may even wag slowly. He may also show his teeth, along with a lot of ferocious barking.

If you find yourself in a situation with such a dog, don't run or turn your back on him. Stay calm and back away slowly. Don't make eye contact with such a dog, but at the same time don't turn your back on him either, as this could give him an opportunity to strike. If you think that the dog may attack, do not run from him, as to do so would almost certainly cause him to chase and bite. Find something to put between you and the dog, say for example a piece of furniture, and back confidently and slowly away.

Almost everyone own a video camera these days, therefore, if you would like to learn more about how your dog uses his body language to communicate, take your camera with you when you take him to the local park and film his interactions. Later, play them back and you will be amazed at what you will learn.

Ivan Ojounru has been training dogs in the UK since the late 1908's. He now lives in France where he continues to train dogs and write about dog related behavior care and training topics. He is passionate about giving dog owners the skills, knowledge and confidence to enable them to train their own dogs successfully. For further information visit http://www.dogtrainingcareadvice.blogspot.com

Avoiding Aggressive Dogs

In 2007 3,800 people were treated for dog bites in the UK. However, estimates can be inaccurate because dog bites themselves are not measured: they are included in dog attack figures which also include dog strikes such as being knocked over by an over enthusiastic dog as well as genuine, more serious cases of dog attacks. Also only half of dog bites are actually reported to police or healthcare workers. One in five people seek medical attention for dog bites, of whom only 1% requires hospital admission.

Any dog can attack and in 70% of cases people are bitten by a dog they own or a dog they know. Even older dogs without a previous history of aggression can be potentially dangerous, because they may have sight or hearing impairments or be especially sensitive so they may over react or not understand normal movements or circumstances. Children are significantly more likely to be attacked or to suffer more severe injuries: the highest incidence is among those who are 1 year old. This may be for several reasons. Firstly parents with young children are more likely to take their child to see a doctor as a precaution even if it doesn't seem very serious, therefore the case is recorded and can be used in figures to measure dog attacks. Secondly children are more likely to provoke a dog by trying to play with it or cuddle it. Finally, since children are smaller they are more likely to sustain more serious injuries as their head, neck and face are at a similar level to the dog and are easier to reach in an attack.

Why dogs attack:

Dogs can attack for a number of reasons:


They are frightened
They are surprised or shocked and so react instinctively
They are disturbed.
They are excited and bite by mistake. Rough play should not be encouraged in case the dog doesn't differentiate between play and real life situations, or becomes confused as to what the boundaries of play are.
They are nervous and bite by mistake
They are possessive of people, places and things. If you:
Remove a favourite toy or food.
Invade their private space such as a garden, a car or a porch.
Approach, or harm their owner or something their owner possesses

Then they may attack, especially if you approached suddenly or they didn't hear or see you coming.

If you crowd, corner or stand over a dog they feel threatened and act defensively which may cause them to bite.

Any dog that is loose may be lost, frightened or injured and therefore not behaving characteristically and they may be more prone to bite.

Some situations put you at more risk of being attacked and some actions may provoke a dog more than others. Dogs are more likely to attack if they feel threatened, feel that their territory is being invaded or become jealous of attention being paid to another family member. Don't approach a dog that is chained up or in a car, they may feel vulnerable or protective of their territory and attack.

Never leave children unsupervised with dogs. Children may, either intentionally or unintentionally, provoke attacks by disturbing the dog or trying to play with it. Also dogs sometimes see children as something that squeals and runs about which is similar to the behaviour of prey, therefore the dog's instinct may be to chase it.

Avoiding Attacks:

You may be able to avoid being attacked by a dog if you use common sense, behave sensibly around a dog and understand some of the reasons why they may attack. For example larger dogs such as German Shepherds and Rottweilers are more likely to bite, but all dogs should be considered potentially dangerous. Also male dogs are more likely to bite than female dogs, while men are more likely to be bitten than women. Sometimes dogs bite while you are stroking them because they lose track of your hand as it goes behind their heads so it think you are about to strike. If you want to stroke a dog check with the owner first in case the dog is scared of, or reacts badly to strangers. Also let the dog sniff you first and see your hand before you approach to stroke it.

Common circumstances that may provoke an attack:


Playing with or near the dog
Passing the dog, either walking or cycling
Cuddling the dog
Feeding the dog
Disturbing the dog while eating
Disturbing a dog caring for puppies
Surprising the dog
Pulling the dog's tail
Interfering during a dog fight
Running or screaming in the presence of a dog.
What to do when you're faced with a dangerous dog:

If you find yourself with an aggressive or dangerous dog don't provoke it further, either by shouting which may shock or scare it causing it to attack, or by running away: dogs love to chase things as they were originally natural hunters who chased prey. Also don't move suddenly or try and surprise it or scare it away: it may behave unpredictably and attack you. The best thing to do if you are faced with an aggressive dog and you are not in immediate danger (it is not currently attacking you) is to stand perfectly still with your hands by your sides. Avoid eye contact at all times as dogs see this as a challenge and may attack. The dog will lose interest and hopefully leave without attacking you, if this happens back away slowly, but don't turn your back to it as you want to be able to see what it is doing in case it attacks suddenly.

Don't interfere if you see two dogs fighting as they may turn on you, also if you see a dog attacking someone, approach with caution and try not to interfere: you do want to help but you could easily be its next victim. Don't break up a fight using your hands; throw a stick to distract them, or throw a blanket over them to confuse and disorientate them.

If a dog does attack try not to scream. "Feed" it your jacket, purse or anything to hand that can be used to put between you and the dog. If you do fall during the attack try and remain as still as possible, curl up into a ball with your hands over your ears and try not to roll around.

The warning signs of an aggressive or potentially dangerous dog:


Growling, snarling or barking
Shyness or fear such as a dog that is crouched, has its head low or its tail between its legs. A scared dog is just as dangerous as an aggressive dog.
Raised fur or hackles
Erect ears
Stiff body
High tail
Unnaturally still or unresponsive dog: dogs that bred for fighting are bred for their ability to disguise aggressive intentions.
Dogs in pain: they might bite anyone who tries to touch them.
Avoiding rabies:

Rabies is a serious disease that is fatal to humans. At the moment the UK is free from rabies (although some bats are thought to carry it in the UK), but it is common in Africa, Asia, Central and Southern America and some cases have been reported in Eastern Europe.

Some species are more prone than others, in particular: untagged or stray dogs, bats, raccoon, skunks, foxes, rats and squirrels. If you see one of these animals don't approach it or do anything to provoke an attack, but walk away slowly; making loud noises may scare the animal away.

There are some signs which suggest that an animal has rabies:


Wild animals come close instead of running away
The animal foams at the mouth and the tongue hangs out
The animal can't catch it's breath and it's breathing is very laboured
The wild animal suddenly lunges or snarls; it is ready to attack without provocation.

If you sustain a bite or even a scratch from a dog while abroad then you should contact the Health Protection Agency Centre for Infection or Health Protection Scotland even if you don't think that you have contracted anything: rabies is virtually undetectable. Staff will need to know:


Your previous vaccination status
The country where you were bitten
The site and date of the bite
Whether the attack was provoked or unprovoked
Whether you were attacked by a domestic or feral dog
The current status of the animal if it is known. You can have tests done on an animal to see if it has rabies, as long as the brain is still intact, even if it is dead.

The treatment to prevent rabies developing is called post-exposure prophylaxis. Prophylaxis is a Greek word meaning an advance guard, in medical terms it means that a measure is taken to maintain health and prevent the spread of a disease or condition. The treatment involves 1 dose of rabies immunoglobulin, which is a blood product containing antibodies against rabies, and 5 doses of rabies vaccine.

Have you suffered injury as a result of an accident or somebody else's wrong doing? If so, and it wasn't your fault we can help you make a compensation claim for your physical, psychological and financial losses.

At Macks we understand the importance of a good lawyer / client relationship. We pride ourselves on looking after our clients, communicating effectively and listening to people's needs.
To receive advice and help for your situation call Free phone 0800 652 4321 or 01642 252828.
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Aggression Triggers in Dogs

Aggression in dogs can be caused by many triggers. It's up to us to find out what is triggering our dogs to have behavior that comes out in the form of aggression. There are many motivational triggers to look at in dog aggression...

Leadership is one of the first and most common triggers of aggression in a multi dog house hold. In a pack of dogs or a family with more then one dog one leader will be chosen by the pack of dogs. This usually results in a fight. The one who wins is then the pack leader. This may be challenged again at times. It is important for us as humans to respect this and not treat the weaker dog of the pack with more care and attentiveness. This will only cause aggression in the leader of the pack and make life difficult for your dogs.

Pack hierarchy is the rank order of the rest of your dog pack and with each dog it is different. This can occur multiple times in order for the pack rank to move from one dog to another.

Protection of territory is important to most dogs. Some are protective of where they live, food bowl, preferred toy or his human companions or one of his human family members.

Maternal instinct can occur when the male dog comes to close to her puppies or when humans especially children come to close for comfort. It's important to avoid sudden contact with pups.

Fear/Stress can cause a dog to bite and can be apart of flight or fight decision when a dog is scared. The dog needs personal space. When introducing two dogs to each other, it's important to give them space and not hover over them the whole time. This can also be avoided by not letting a dog meet and greet being attached to a leash as the dog will feel your stress and the tightened leash. It is even better if they can meet on an area that is not familiar to any of the dogs to avoid territorial aggression. At first when adopting a second or third dog it's important to give the dog that you had first, attention and food first until they have figured out their pack dynamics.

Hunting instinct is more prone in some dog breeds then others. Huskies are well known for this as they have a high prey drive and an excited energy and can cause great harm and death to smaller dogs and animals.

Dogs that suffer from pain or is injured should always be handled with a muzzle on. An injured dog wants to protect him by the only way he knows how and that is through aggression this goes hand in hand with fear and stress related aggression. When dogs get into a fight, beating them to stop the fight can even stir up a bigger fight between the dogs.

Dogs can be competitive mostly for attention from his owners and this causes some jealousy that triggers unwanted behavior that can go over into aggression.

Dogs and kids both need boundaries and very often we let kids just play with dogs as they please. This can cause a dog to snap. There are usually many warning signs of a dog feeling frustrated by a child. Things like walking away, growling etc. But we and kids choose to ignore this and push the dog just that little bit extra. This is how kids get bitten by dogs most of the time and this is the only way they know how to say please stop now. Adult dogs do this with puppies too and discipline them this way.

When dogs play they can easily cross the point of being play full and starting to fight. It's important for us to know when they are still playing and when they are starting to fight. This can avoid serious fights. Dogs that play will only bite lightly and leave the certain spot where he is biting after just a few seconds. Dogs that really fight will open flesh. Also take notice when one of the dogs seem to want to leave and not play any more and when they start to growl with irritation this is when they should stop. Dogs wanting to play lays down in the down ward dog position. This is when they put their front paws down on the ground with their hind legs up wards, tails can wag and they can jump around excited and make friendly barking sounds.

Male dogs cause up to 90% of gender fights, but male dogs sort out their problems much more quickly then female dogs. Females that are spayed can be more aggressive because they have more testosterone, but an intact female is like a woman that has pms. An intact female goes through that same hormonal stages, irritability and feeling down.

Some breeds are more prone to fight because of their genetic make-up. How you raise these dogs and socialize them can make a vast difference in their temperament.

Idiopathic aggression they say is caused by a brain dysfunction. This is usually seen in larger breeds. These dogs will suddenly attack and then minutes later be the sweetest dog and seem to have totally forgotten about the attack. These dogs should not be used to breed.

Learned aggression is usually caused by humans. These dogs can use aggression because it works to achieve what they want. It can be that the pups were bullied. Or dogs that use aggression to survive.

Not socializing a dog can cause aggression problems. If a dog is only used to being with an older lady, he might not be able to know how to handle kids and or men or other dogs. This can go two ways; either being scared and pancake or being aggressive to wards the other dog or human. Know that this is not true aggression, but unwanted dog behavior from a dog that is uncertain and scared.

Training dogs to be aggressive can be given on cue when a dog is trained as a police dog or for security purposes.

Ageing dogs can tend to be aggressive. This goes hand in hand with sickness and pain as they are scared that they will be hurt and because their senses of hearing and sight can be less accurate. This can cause a dog to get frightened and react accordingly.

Metabolic disturbances can occur with low blood sugar that could be caused due to hunger. This shifts the testosterone and can cause aggression.

Displaced aggression can be caused by two dogs that run to a gate barking at a stranger or dog passing. Because of the gate constricting them to not be able to reach out to the stranger. They turn to each other out of frustration and miss place the aggression.

Louise Basson is the author and web master of http://www.dog-care-centre.com She also runs a dog day care centre and kennel for dogs. This is a specialized facility for only a few dogs to insure optimum care.

She specializes in Alaskan Huskies and has been to Alaska to learn more about the breed and the dog powered sport called mushing. Louise also is currently busy with Ethology-dog behaviour training course. She also distributes mushing gear and dog care centre dog gear and treats. Louise Basson is a part of Siberian Husky Rescue Gauteng to help foster and re home Huskies in the Western Cape.

Compassionate Care For Your Aging Dog

Dog owners are often taken by surprise when they realize their dog is getting older. Perhaps an owner has noticed their pet taking an unusually long time to get up in the mornings, or maybe the dog becomes disoriented when outside. This realization can be emotionally troubling to the owner, as he sees his pet becoming more feeble as time goes by. Compassionate care of an aging dog is necessary to ensure the well being of both the dog and owner, and prepare them both for this new stage of life.

Dogs, like humans, are living longer than ever. Depending on the breed and environment, a dogs' middle age is around seven. Veterinarians suggest that when a dog reaches seven years of age, prevention and preparation become the key elements of care. A dog should be taken to the vet at this age for a full exam in order to check the general health of the dog. Your dog should always see the vet if a pet owner notices any stiffness, bad breath, disorientation, lumps that are growing, or has a change in eating or drinking. These symptoms could be signs of something more serious that needs medical attention. As dogs age, hearing and sight deteriorate, sleep patterns change, weight may change, and the immune system of a dog can decline. Many of these physical changes bring on emotional changes as well.

For example, a dog may not recognize familiar people because of hearing or sight decline, and instead of being friendly, a dog may react with fear or anger. With a little knowledge a pet owner can make the transition into the senior years for their pet happy and healthy. Many aging dogs suffer from arthritis or stiffness in the morning or after naps. A dog owner can make a few changes in their pets' environment to make this easier on the dog. Provide a warm, soft bed for the dog to sleep in, preferably on the floor so the dog does not have to jump up onto a bed or couch. Massage is an excellent treatment for pets with stiff joints. Massaging your dog will reduce pain and increase blood flow to the body. Massage also provides a level of comfort to a dog that may be disoriented or fearful. Massage can be done at any time, but if done before bed, the dog may have a more restful night of sleep. Massage after exercise can prevent stiffness from setting in. In addition to massage, an owner should remember to groom the dog as well.

Older pets have a more difficult time keeping themselves clean, especially after eating or taking a walk. Bathe and brush when needed; your pet will love the comforting attention! Changing the dogs walking schedule may help a dog with arthritis or other medical conditions. Shorter walks, but perhaps more often, can improve stiffness and keep the dog strong and healthy. An older dog wears out quicker, so be sure not to walk so far your pet can't make it back! Exercise can improve a dogs health and mental alertness, but many older dogs become fatigued easily while exercising. Shorter, but more frequent walks also may be needed for a pet with incontinence. Aging dogs may begin to urinate inside the home. If this begins, the dog should be seen by a vet to rule out any serious medical issues. Pet stores or pharmacies sell padding for incontinence. These should be placed anywhere the pet may have gone before, as well as in the pets' bed.

At this stage in a dogs life, punishment for going indoors should be stopped, your dog doesn't want to be bad, he cannot help it. Dogs with hearing and sight loss actually adjust fairly well to these disabilities. Dogs rely on their sense of smell more than sight to find their way around. A blind dog rarely will run into anything or get into danger because they use their smell to guide them. However, a dog owner should do a few things to ensure the dog can maneuver around safely. Do not move furniture around in the house if the dog already knows where everything is located. Follow the same walking route so the dog can move freely and actively. Always keep the food, water bowls and bed in the same place. For a dog with hearing loss there are many things an owner can do to assist their pet. Speak louder when talking to the dog, but be sure that with volume the owner still maintains a pleasant voice. Use hand signals when giving a command. For example, when it's time to go for a walk, point towards the door while your dog is watching and speak to the dog.

Your pet can use these hand signals to follow the owner more easily instead of listening to voice commands. Dogs can become lethargic or depressed due to aging and illness. Keeping a dog mentally stimulated is just as important as their physical well being. Set aside play time each day for your pet. If the dog is healthy enough, spend some time in the yard throwing a ball to him, or gather other toys and just play on the floor inside. If your dog gets along with other dogs, try a "play date" with other pets. Sometimes, a younger dog can provide motivation for an older pet to play or exercise more often. Companionship for your dog, whether full or part time, can help a pet shake the depression that dogs may have as they age.

If your dogs breath is getting bad, again, have the vet check for teeth that may need to be removed, or for any other major health problems. Changing the dogs diet may be needed. Softer dog food is easier on the teeth. Provide your dog with healthy snacks and plenty of fresh water. Owners can assist their dogs by occasionally brushing their teeth for them, although many dogs wont tolerate it. Providing smaller, more frequent meals will also help your dogs digestion system. Try one of the many senior dog foods; they are lower in calories and provide the proper nutrition for an older dog. Older dogs may gain too much weight, adding to their health problems and lethargy, so the senior dog food is a good choice.

As always, plenty of love and attention will make your pet happy. Dogs are social animals, they love us, and need to express that. Allow your dog to guide you through the senior years as well. Pay attention to any signals or symptoms your pet is sending you. Follow your dogs new pace and activity level and don't over do it. Giving your dog plenty of attention now can help your pet adjust to the aches and pains of aging and provide comfort to both the owner and dog.

Louise Gilbert is passionate about saving endangered species, pets, wildlife, nature and the environment. You can view her site at Baby Wildlife and Pets [http://www.baby-mammals.com/]

Introduction to Dog Scootering

Dog Scootering is an activity which is rapidly gaining popularity across the UK - dogs love to run and what better way to allow them to; you may have seen somebody in your local neighbourhood whizzing past you on a scooter being pulled by their dog or dogs. It is a great way to exercise and bond with your pet and is suitable for almost any fit and healthy dog.

Dog Scootering is a sport where one or more dogs pull a human riding an unmotorised two wheeled scooter. The human can help the dog along by scooting and together can cover a much wider area than by walking in the same time frame. This is a great way to exercise for both you and your dog. The dog obviously gets exercise by pulling the scooter and running, but people also get exercise, as they have to assist the dog by pushing the scooter, and at times, getting off and running with the scooter, especially up hills! Most dogs take to scootering immediately and need little or no encouragement to run as fast as they can, whilst going out to new and exciting places. As a scootering team get more experienced and confident, you can visit new trails and travel further, and can lead to a stronger bond between owner and dog.

Almost any type of dogs can pull a scooter, from Huskies, to Great Danes, and Schnauzers to Spaniels. The smaller the dog, the more you will have to help out on hills and rough spots. All dogs, regardless of size, must be slowly worked into fitness, along with their owners. Don't expect to run the Iditarod in your first month!

So how do you start scootering?

All you need to get started is yourself and your dog, a scooter, a harness and a gangline.

There are a variety of different types of scooter on the market currently, ranging from £150 to £400. Scooters are unmotorised and most have mountain bike type tyres, ranging from 16" to 26". The scooters have a large footplate to balance, stand upon and kick off from, and usually have a front and rear brake.

You may find some models only have a rear brake, and other models are now incorporating front shocks to absorb the bumps when riding over rough terrain. Most scooters allow the gangline to be connected around the head stock of the scooter, but there are some varieties of scooter which have introduced a "brushbow" attachment, which cover the front wheel. This protects the dogs from the wheel and also allows the gangline to be connected in a direct line to the rear of the harness.

An alternative sport similar to scootering is bikejoring. This is where a bike is used instead of a scooter, although some people view this as a more dangerous alternative, as it can be more difficult to dismount a bike in an emergency. Others feel more secure on a bike.

Scooters are easily transportable. They can fit inside a car (if you don't mind the mud!), a car boot or can be carried on a bike rack attached to the back or top of a car.

There are two types of harnesses that are generally used for scootering; the X-Back Harness and the Shoulder Harness.

The X-Back Harness is the mainstay product of the majority of professional and recreational mushers. Most commonly seen on pictures of sled dogs around the globe, this harness is the traditional style of capturing a dogs pulling power. It is important the harness fits snugly but not tightly around the neck and extends along the back stopping just short of the tail. As well as sledding and dryland mushing, this harness can be used for skijoring, bikejoring, cani-cross and scootering. The Shoulder Harness; this style of harness connects around the shoulders of the dog with the hitching point just below the shoulder blades. This has the advantage of allowing all the power generated at the shoulders to be harnessed directly, which is particularly useful when the hitching point is not directly in line with the dogs topline, such as with scootering, skijoring and bikejoring. If the connection point is significantly higher than the dogs topline, then the use of an X Back harness can cause the dogs back legs to be lifted away from the ground slightly reducing the power. Some long distance mushers in the Iditarod have also cited shoulder harnesses put less stress on the lower back and hips of the dog. Finally, you will require a gangline which is the line that connects your dog to the scooter.

The gangline will usually consist of two sections; the first called a tug line and the second a bungee line. Alternatively, you can obtain a single longer line which incorporates a bungee within. It is important to use a bungee within the lines, as it will absorb any sharp impacts from the scooter away from the dog and make the experience far more enjoyable.

There are double tug lines that are available once you progress to running two dogs. Most double tug lines will come with a neckline, which clips to the collar of each dog, to keep them running alongside each other.

There is no need for any special attachments to connect the gangline to the scooter - the lines can wrap around the head stock of the scooter; alternatively, as previously mentioned, some scooters are manufactured with special connections points for dog scootering.

Besides the equipment stated above, there is plenty more items and supplies you may wish to take with you whilst out scootering:

Water and Dog Bowl - dogs will drink lots of water especially after exercise. Always make sure your dog has access to fresh clean drinking water before and after exercising.

Treats - you will want to reward your dog after a great time scootering!

Poo Bags - most places now request that you use poo bags after your dog. This is a good reason to encourage your dog to go to the toilet before starting your scootering session.

Protective Equipment - you may wish to wear a helmet, wrist guards, knee pads and or googles when scootering, depending on the speed of your dog and the type of surface you are scootering on.

Dog Booties - Booties protects dog paws from hot pavement, sharp gravel and stones. There is often an adjustment period for the dog's paws, and they may get sore or cut initially if on a longer run, until they toughen up. The owner should ALWAYS carry booties along for cuts and abrasions, and to prevent infection.

Getting started for the first time

For your first run with your dog, choose a familiar route or trail. A good choice is to take the dog to a fun place he's used to visiting, so he has a destination in mind, like the park. A recognised trail is better than an open field because a dog does not know the direction to take when facing an open field. A narrow trail is better than a wide one. If you can, bring a family member or friend on a bicycle, and ask them to ride in front of you.

The dog's first lesson is that the scooter is FUN because he gets to RUN. Keep the run short for the first few trips. Stop well before the dog is tired. Stop while he still wants to go. The first run might be as short as a few minutes or a few miles. Remember that a dog that is out of shape and/or overweight will tire quickly and even can damage joints or pull muscles.

Most people starting out will have just one dog. As always start off slowly. Before you start off on the scooter, walk the dog a little so he has the opportunity to go to the toilet. This will reduce the possibility of your dog having to stop whilst running in harness. Put the dog into his harness and attach them to the scooter with the gangline. An assistant is useful to hold the scooter (one foot on the scooter pad, both brakes squeezed tight) whilst you hook up your dog.

Once you are rolling, keep your fingers on the brake levers, and use your brakes lightly as needed to keep the gangline tight at all times. Ride to the side, not directly behind your dog and have fun!

Watch your gangline carefully - you do not want to ride over it and get it stuck round your front wheel or the dog's leg. Keeping the lines tight is your responsibility and can be done by using the scooter brakes lightly whenever the dog slows down. Do not let the scooter ride up next to the dog. The dog's job is always to hold the line out tight in front of the scooter. Novice dogs may pull sideways sniffing and lifting their legs. They will suddenly stop to poo as running causes the bowels to move. When first training the dog, steer the scooter to one side of him so that if he stops suddenly, you will miss him if you can't stop in time. Do not ride directly behind him.

If your dog gets confused, you or your helper can run beside him with a leash while the other rides the scooter. Keep encouraging him to pull. Heel trained dogs may be unsure that it's okay to be out front and pulling. Once they catch on, most dogs really love the pulling and running aspects of scootering. Again start off with short distances and build up gradually. Another way to encourage your dog to run is by getting somebody (your assistant!) to cycle in front calling your dog on.

A very important part of the training is command training. Remember, you cannot easily reach your dog without stopping and getting off the scooter and it may be too late to sort the issues, so an obedient dog which listens to your commands is very important. It will also make the experience far more pleasurable if both of you know what you are doing and what is expected.

The basic commands are "Gee" for right turn, "Haw" for left turn, "Straight on" for straight on, "On by" for overtaking or passing a distraction. There are many other commands such as "Hike on" or "Get on" for speeding up, or "Steady" or "Easy" for slowing down. Many people use these commands or variants of these, but the main thing to remember is to be consistent. "Whoa" is essential to get down before hooking him up to the scooter. Having good brakes on the scooter is essential for stopping dogs as most dogs consider the command "whoa" as only a suggestion!

Teach your dog mushing commands even when out walking to get them used to them:

Some basic commands:

Gee = Go Right Haw = Go Left Straight On = Straight On Hike / Pull = Go Forward Whooa = Gentle Stop Trail = Stay on the trail On By = Go past (e.g. past a distraction) Easy = Go Slower

These are just examples. Use whatever commands you feel comfortable with; just keep them consistent.

The younger a dog is in terms of training, the easier it tends to be to train them. However when it comes to strenuous pulling exercises, it is advisable to let them finish growing and for their hips to have fused before undertaking any serious training or exercise. Many dogs start being trained from 6 months to work in harness, but will not pull any significant weight for any distance until they are at least a year old. It is recommended to get your dog checked over by your vet before starting to scooter.

When and where can I do this?

Depending on your dogs overall demeanor and your general control, this can be done on virtually any off road trail that is firm enough to cycle on. Generally pavements and roads are not advisable as the hard surface will put impact pressure on the dogs joints and the risk of incidents with traffic and pedestrians is high.

The best time of year and weather to scooter in will heavily depend on your dogs coat and temperature tolerance, while it is typically a winter activity for densely coated northern breeds, other dogs with thinner coats would be able to run at virtually any time of year as long as you avoid particularly warm days.

NEVER scooter in hot weather. Cool weather is best for your dog. In warm weather, scooter in the cool of the day.

There is a fair bit of information available online on the sport and I would recommend anyone seriously looking into the sport to read "Dog Scooter: The Sport for Dogs Who Love to Run" by Daphne Lewis.

Equipment is available from www.snowpawstore.com as well as other stockists.

Lastly, but most importantly - have fun scootering! Your dog will love it, you will love it; you'll become a team and you'll get fit too! Dog scootering is addictive!

Matt Hodgson
Snow Paw ltd
http://www.snowpawstore.com
Recreational Musher and Sled Dog Enthusiast

House Training Your Dog - What Not to Do

It can be incredibly aggravating when your puppy pees on the carpet or poops in your shoes. Even though this is aggravating behavior, it's important to remain calm and patiently teach your puppy how to go outside. Yet, many dog owners can not remain calm. Getting angry, and correcting your puppy in the incorrect fashion is not how to potty train your dog. In fact, it can not only damage your relationship with your dog, but it can cause even more problems.

The most common mistake that we make with dogs is that we them, including our puppies, as humans. For example, when our puppy pees on the floor while we're out of the house, we come home, see the mess, immediately become angry, grab our dog by the collar and drag it over to the pee spot, point its nose in the mess and say, "bad!" and the hilarious thing is that we actually expect them to understand what we're angry about. The fact is, however, that your pet has no idea why you're angry and it WILL NOT make the correlation between the pee spot, your anger and its mistake. Instead, all the dog will understand is that when you grab it by the scruff of the neck you're angry with it, therefore it will be afraid of you and probably continue peeing in the house, except this time it won't come when it's called.

When your dog pees in the house or chews on one of your shoes there is only a minute or so when correction can actually be correlated to that event. This means that, unless you catch your them in the act of peeing on the floor and then say, "no!" then your dog will not understand what you are correcting it for. And, since you can't always be around to catch them, you have to exercise other ways to potty train your pet.

The first lesson in how to potty train your dog is knowing what not to do, such as the following:

- As described above, don't correct your dog for doing its business in the house unless you catch your dog in the act. This can lead to severe mental problems and distrust of you as the owner. The dog will not be able to understand what it did wrong, no matter what you think.

- Despite popularity, it is not wise to get a pee pad for your dog. Unless your dog is much older and can't get around very well anymore, don't get a pad for your dog to pee on in the house, this only discourages potty training.

- Don't limit outings to pee and poop time. If you only take your dog for a walk or out in the yard in order for it to pee and poop, then your dog learns that the longer they take to do their business, the longer they get to stay outside. You need to exercise your dog regularly. Peeing and pooping is another thing.

- Don't let your dog free feed. I work over at a dog daycare and I always become discouraged when owners instruct us to leave food down all day for their dogs allowing their dogs to eat whenever. This causes tons of pee and poop messes in the kennels because dogs that don't have a regular eating schedule also don't have a regular bathroom schedule. If you really want to potty train your dog, then you have to provide your pet with a consistent eating schedule. That way, you will know when your dog needs to go to the bathroom and when it doesn't.

The following are examples of what you SHOULD do when potty training your dog:

- Always accompany your dog outside when it's time to go potty. This way you can make sure your dog goes in the yard and you can praise your dog for doing so. For example, when your dog pees in the yard, you need to say "good dog!" and tell your pet how cleaver it is and give it lots of hugs and kisses. That way your dog will correlate peeing and pooping in the yard as something positive.

- Always have a set time for feeding your dog. That way, depending on your dog's size and weight, you will know when it needs to go potty. For example, if you feed your dog dinner at 7 PM then you know, within an hour and a half or so, that your dog will need to go out.

- Do get a crate for your dog. Often times dog owners will shy away from getting a crate because they think it's cruel to put a dog in a cage. However, your dog LOVES its crate. Your dog looks at its crate as its little den and, before you know it, your dog will WANT to go in its crate. By crating your dog while you're at work, you will learn how to potty train your dog. Your dog will learn not to urinate or poop in its crate, because that is your dog's domain. They will learn to understand that, when you come home, it gets to go outside and relieve itself.

Potty training your dog requires an understanding of timing and dog psychology. Never correct your dog after it has made a mistake. Only take precautions to prevent mistakes such as crating your dog and providing it a consistent feeding schedule. Only correct your dog during the act, and the best thing you can do is vehemently praise your dog when it pees outside in the yard. These lessons, combined with consistent exercise (not just taking your dog out when it needs to be) is how to effectively potty train your pet.

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Aggressive Dog Training - Expert Advice

Almost everyone loves dogs. People like to run, throw a stick, play fetch and pass time with dogs. We enjoy sitting on the sofa and scratching the dog's back. People like to receive a big kiss when they get home from work. The one time when this isn't the case is when you have an aggressive dog. In this instance, aggressive dog training will be required.

If you have an aggressive dog, you can face legal problems. Different states handle this problem in different ways. Dog owners can end up in jail. If your dog attacks and injures someone, the dog could be put down. You can curb the aggression in your dog through aggressive dog training.

First you need to understand what makes a dog aggressive. It could be the dog is territorial and doesn't want their space compromised. Or it could be they feel threatened by something or somebody nearby. The root cause of aggression is often found to be a lack of security. The dog may often have little or no confidence. Dog obedience training on a simple level won't help with these dogs.

Perhaps the dog barks and lunges at people. This may imply it needs thorough aggressive dog training. This demands a special skill and you should select your trainer carefully, or if you choose to train the dog yourself you should consider using a training guide specifically suited for aggressive dog training. You want to put your worries to rest. Normal training classes won't be right for an aggressive dog. You want a school that knows how to handle aggressive dogs.

There are some basic facts about aggressive dogs that people should know:

90% of dog bites happen to those who are familiar with the dog

Most biting dogs can be called family pets

60% to 70% of bites happen to children or to elderly people

40% of bites to children cause damage to facial tissue (lips, cheek etc.)

1/2 of the claims created on homeowners insurance come from bites claims

Aggressiveness in dogs is caused by a number of different things that all can be tracked to poor breeding or poor socializing

Dogs don't get to be monsters in one day. Most dogs display some kind of warning signs. Maybe it was timid when it was younger or maybe it became a bully after growling at different people who came to close to its toys and food. You can't blame the owner for missing these early alerts. It's hard enough to teach a puppy to pee outside. Still, that pet owner must take some responsibility for the dog's aggressive nature.

There's a variety of aggressions dog's can display. These include:

Dominant Aggression

Territorial Aggression

Fear Aggression

A dog is showing dominant aggression when it does things like snap at people fingers if they get too close to a toy or a food bowl. The dog may grow up to be one that is aggressive to people in the family as well as strangers. The dog may try to gain control of the entire home.

Keep in mind that dogs are pack animals. This has been bred into them since time began. They demand a pack order. They will develop a pack by which they can live. They learn to think of their owner as the pack leader. This is why they take commands better from the man of the house.

To get control of the dog, it's a good idea to switch him to the bottom of the pack. Control every aspect of his life and you can succeed in this mission. Feed him only after the owner eats. Never let him sleep on the owner's bed. If motivation is used in training, it must have corrections for failure to learn. Only allow the dog to play with toys the owner provides. The dog can't play with the toys until the owner hands them over.

Dogs that are territorial often believe the yard, house, or car belongs to them. This form of aggression can be considered one of dominance. Some dogs seem to think they need to let people know who owns what. Usually, a territorial dog is simply going to guard the estate from strangers.

When someone owns a guard dog, they want it to be territorial. A dog that barks and even bites is a good thing. Still, these people don't want the dog to actually attack anyone. No one wants to lock their dog in the basement when guests come for dinner.

Once again it is necessary to show the owner is the pack leader to contend with this type of dog. The pack leader is the one that tells other dogs what part of the territory belongs to them. The owner can't allow the dog to think of the back yard as his own back yard. The dog should simply wait for the owner to be present and ready to give attention.

Fear based aggression is what happens when the dog wants to avoid all people and strange places. The dog understands that showing its teeth to a stranger will mean the stranger will back away and not bother them. The dog may manifest fear by trying to bite people it doesn't recognize the minute the stranger turns his back on the dog. Dogs that bite in this situation often bite the rear. This presents less threat than an attack from the front. This is why it is said a dog that bites from fear is a dog with troubled nerves that has learned a response.

Fear biters are dogs that are born shy. This is why they act like they do. They are the result of some poor breeding. Some people believe they were abused at an early age. It's the bad temperament they were born with that causes the trouble.

Once you realize you have an aggressive dog, you can work with it by creating situations where training will help build a feeling of confidence and security for the dog. It might be a good idea to try to meet a friend when you take the dog for walk. Reward the dog with a treat if he behaves nicely.

If the dog is shy, it's good to try and socialize him. Be careful when you get your dog around older dogs. It's a good idea to protect your dog from dogs that may not treat him well. Again, having the dog meet your friends might be helpful.

A dog that is socialized and that has gone through some basic training will create a lot less of a problem. The owner needs to pursue education on the training of aggressive dogs, so he can find the right kind of help. Any owner can learn to help his dog become a friendlier, more loving pet. It takes patience and practice. If the owner is dedicated to make life good for the dog, he can't lose.

If you are having trouble with properly implementing a plan for aggressive dog training or are facing any of the problems mentioned throughout this article, I suggest you consider using a dog training guide to help you train your dog. A wide range of dog training books exist, many of which are not worth the paper they are written on. If you want a quality dog training book I recommend you check out "Secrets to Dog Training" or "Dog Training Secrets". Thousands of dog owners worldwide have used these books to get great results.

To find out more about how to train aggressive dogs, please click the links below.

Craig Clemins is a long time dog enthusiast. For more great tips and advice on aggressive dog training, visit http://www.dog-solutions.com.

Aggressive Dog Training Made Easy

Dog aggression is a fairly common problem that many owners will face at one time in their dog's life or another. It is actually so common that there are hundreds upon hundreds of studies associated with aggression. Questions such as "Why does aggression occur," "Why are some breeds more aggressive," and "How can I use aggressive dog training to curb aggression in my dog," are asked on a regular basis. Before you actually begin aggressive dog training, it is important to understand the type of aggression that your dog may be experiencing. Believe it or not, there are actually several types of aggression and each one will need to be handled in a slightly different manner. The types of aggression are:

- Dog Aggression: this can be seen in many different breeds and it is actually aggression that a dog shows to other dogs. · Fear Aggression: Many people may not see fear as an aggressive behavior but if a dog begins to bite, bark, growl or bare his teeth when he is frightened than it has moved from simple fear to fear aggression.

- Dominant Aggression: This is a very serious type of aggression since the dog has many traits that you would see in a "bully." One of the biggest problems with dominant aggression is that it is not always seen as aggression, just an alpha personality doing what it does best, until the dog attacks someone or something. Another problem is that dominant aggression is very unpredictable.

- Possessive Aggression: To get a clear idea of this, watch your dog while he is eating and is interrupted by someone. If he is fine and continues to eat or even allows you to put your hand in the dish then there is no real aggression there; however, if he growls or bites then you know that he is being possessive about things he preserves as his. While this may seem appropriate, a dog should never be possessive.

- Pain Aggression: This is aggression that is shown when a dog is in pain. · Maternal Aggression: Seen only in female dogs, this is an aggression that is seen when a female is raising a litter of puppies.

- Territorial Aggression: There are several breeds of dogs that are prone to territorial aggression where they see an area such as the house, the yard, the neighborhood or all of the above as his. When other animals or people enter his territory, he reacts in an aggressive manner.

As you can see, there are a large number of aggressions and many dogs will experience one or the other at certain times in their life. While some forms of aggression are very serious and require aggressive dog training, some of them aren't and really only require some patience by the owner to overcome. In the case of pain aggression, it is important to find out why your dog is being aggressive. If he is hurt, take him to the vet to have the problem looked after. When the dog heals, the aggression should go away on its own but if it doesn't, you can move into training methods for it.

In addition, maternal aggression can be avoided simply by spaying your dog but if she does whelp a litter, the maternal aggression should diminish as the puppies are weaned and placed in new homes. In many cases, the easiest way to use aggressive dog training is to socialize your puppy and dog correctly. Many people see socialization as a process that is done when their puppy is young but socialization should be done throughout your dog's life. Exposing him to other dogs, people, places and stimulants will help curb many different areas of aggression such as dog aggression. Remember that when you do socialize your dog, especially if he has some aggression problems, that you do so in a controlled manner.

Make sure all the dogs are on leashes and introduce him to one dog at a time. Never allow your dog to be surrounded by a group of dogs since this can frighten him and trigger his aggressive response. If at any time your dog starts to indicate aggression, simply correct him by removing him a few feet away from the other dog and then praising him when he calms down. Another way to make aggressive dog training easy is to place firm rules in your house from the moment your dog arrives home. This means that he is not allowed on the furniture and that he understands that the home is yours. To battle dominance aggression, it is important to put yourself and everyone else in the role of dominate. Your dog should never eat before the family and he should never be allowed to find food for himself.

When he does eat, take the time to place your hands in the dog's food dish and feed him by hand. This teaches him that anyone is allowed in his dish and it will help curb some possessive aggression. Make sure that everyone in the house does this as well and never let the dog go around your hand to eat directly from the bowl. In many cases, aggressive dog training needs to start with owners. To make it easy, you need to look at how you are training your dog, how he is being socialized and what negative behaviors are being reinforced. For instance, if you nurture fright responses such as growling by coddling the dog whenever he is scared, then he will quickly learn that growling is the proper response to being scared, which may develop into fear aggression.

Ignore some behaviors and correct others with a firm "no," which is an important command with aggressive dog training. When you are using aggressive dog training, it is important that you do not correct your dog in a harsh manner. Although it may not seem like you are being abusive to your dog, a small slap can cause a large amount of damage and if a dog is already aggressive, it will just reinforce the aggressive behavior. After you have corrected how you train your dog, it is time to start aggressive dog training and it is very easy; simply break out the basics of training. Many times, basic training on a regular basis can really help with many forms of aggression and many different types of negative behaviors.

To battle territorial aggression, start by inviting people over to your home and correcting your dog when he begins barking with a loud noise to interrupt the behavior and then a firm "no." When your dog stops barking, praise him and treat. Increase the frequency that different guests visit as your dog becomes accustomed to people being in his space. If your dog is aggressive during walks, it is time to take aggressive dog training out on a walk. Start by taking different routes every time you take a walk. Since the route is different, your dog is less likely to imprint a route as being his.

When he meets people or other animals on the street, correct his negative behavior with a firm "no" and praise him when he doesn't react. As the aggressive dog training is advanced, gradually begin taking him to higher traffic areas until he can walk in a busy place without reacting in an aggressive manner. Although aggressive dog training is fairly easy, it does take some time and it is very important to watch your dog's stress levels and to take your time with training. Remember, your dog didn't become aggressive over night and you can't expect the aggressive dog training to work overnight either, so take your time and enjoy every success your dog has.

Nancy Richards has been involved with dog training for several years. Learn all about aggressive dog training , companion dog training, dog grooming, diet, care for all dog breeds.

Choosing the Appropriate Dog Breed For Your Family

First and foremost, I recommend you always look and support in adopting and saving the life of a dog at a rescue or shelter. Dogs there are in desperate need of homes. You will be surprised at how great of a dog you can find at a local shelter.

Are you thinking of getting a dog? Choosing to bring a new dog into your life is a major decision. Be sure you are ready for a dog before you start the process. It is also essential that you understand the cost of dog ownership. If you have decided that the time is right, congratulations! Now it is time to figure out what type of dog is right for you. There are several factors to consider before choosing a dog. Most importantly, examine your current lifestyle and consider what adjustments you are willing to make for a dog. Look at the needs of your family - especially if you have children or other pets. Think about the ideal size, energy level and age of your new dog. Then, determine where to get your new dog. Just remember that getting a dog requires a firm commitment to responsible dog ownership. Here are some tips to help you choose the best dog for you and your family.

Size

You may already know you want a little lap dog that you can carry around. Or, you might have your heart set on a large or giant dog breed. If you cannot decide, then perhaps a medium sized dog is a good choice.

Remember that small dogs tend to be delicate and vulnerable. Being stepped on or mishandled can cause serious injury. Also, little dogs can be much more sensitive to colder temperatures, so be ready to help keep them warm. Don't forget that small dogs need obedience training too! Some little dogs can develop "tough dog" attitudes, seemingly to compensate for their small size. Be sure you are prepared for this possibility.

Very large dogs need a bit more space to move around. Big, happy dogs with long, whip-like tails need "wagging space" to avoid tail injury or damage to household objects. Another consideration is expense: the larger the dog, the more expensive things like dog food, dog supplies and medical treatments become. Training is also a key factor here. If you get a large or giant breed puppy that is allowed to act like a lap dog when young, he will grow up to walk all over you - literally!

Activity Level

You probably already know that some dogs have more energy than others. A dog's activity level is often determined by breed, but it does not mean you can rely on breed alone to determine how energetic your dog could become. Every dog needs routine exercise, regardless of breed or size, so make sure you can to provide this. If you know you can not commit to more than one or two casual walks per day, then you will probably be better off with a lower energy dog, such as a Basset Hound. If you are looking for a dog that can be a jogging partner, agility competitor or "disc dog," consider a breed like the Border Collie.

Be willing to adjust the amount of exercise and attention you give your dog if necessary. A dog that is barking constantly, digging up your yard, destroying your home, or acting out in some other way is most likely in need of extra activities. Many behavior problems are the result of excess energy. Unfortunately, many dogs are given up or even euthanized because of a behavior problem that could have easily been avoided with the proper amount of exercise and attention.

Physical Maintenance

Your dog's appearance has a lot to do with his maintenance needs. All dogs need basic grooming, but certain types need more based on the type of hair coat. If you get a dog with hair that keeps growing, then advanced routine grooming is essential. Most short haired, smooth-coated dogs are major shedders, so be prepared to do some extra cleaning up. Some grooming tools can help reduce shedding. Be aware that dogs with long, floppy ears are more prone to ear infections and require frequent thorough ear cleanings. In addition, certain types of dogs can do a lot of drooling. Many owners of Mastiffs, Bloodhounds and similar dogs actually carry a "slobber cloth" with them to wipe the drool. If they shake their heads - watch out!

Age

Puppies require the greatest amount of training and attention, especially over the first six months. Be prepared to dedicate much of your time to housebreaking and raising your new puppy. You dog will likely have plenty of accidents in the house and will probably chew your furniture and personal belongings. These problems will gradually resolve with dedicated training, but patience is a must. You should also be aware that your puppy might grow up to be different then you expected, especially if you adopt a mixed-breed dog. This is not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

Adult dogs can be an excellent choice. An adult might be a better choice if you want to have a better idea of the true energy level, attitude, and temperament of your new dog. However, just because the dog is an adult does not mean he is trained, so you should still expect some degree of dedicated training at first. Fortunately, many adult dogs have been trained and socialized to some degree and can easily adjust to their new lives in their forever homes.

Senior dogs should not be forgotten! Welcoming a senior dog into your home can be a wonderful way to bring joy to the golden years of a dog. Unfortunately, senior dogs are less likely to be adopted and often end up living out their lives in shelters or being euthanized. A senior dog can make a wonderful companion if you are looking for a lower energy dog. However, it is important to know that your senior dog needs special attention, more frequent veterinary check-ups and is more likely to develop heath problems that cost time and money to address. Unlike a puppy or adult dog, you must know that you will not have as many years with your senior dog. If you are willing to accept the responsibilities, consider adopting a senior dog. It can be one of the most compassionate things you can do for these precious creatures.

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Dog Parks - Good Or Bad?

Dog parks are a place where both dogs and their owners can go to socialize. But are they good or bad? Though there popularity has skyrocketed in the past few years, they have both supporters and people who don't feel comfortable bringing their dog there for a variety of reasons.

Dog parks provide an outlet for many dogs to burn off pent up energy that might otherwise result in frustration that leads to destructive behavior at home. People are often advised to give their dog plenty of exercise, and one of the most convenient and popular places people look to for their dog's exercise outlet is at a dog park.

There their dogs can run and play with other dogs. They can have interaction with other dogs that they wouldn't otherwise have on a solo dog walk in the neighborhood. This is an excellent way for a dog to build up his socialization skills as long as the owners of the dogs remain vigilant in monitoring their dog's interactions. There are rules in most dog parks. Dogs are usually separated to some extent by size, with the large dogs having their own area in which to run and play and the small dogs are then free to run in their own area behind fencing without fear of being mauled and attacked. Some parks may only allow spayed and neutered dogs to play which reduces any problems with fighting for reproductive reasons. Another positive aspect of dog parks is that they allow dog owners to meet each other and discuss concerns about their dogs and other things. Quite often people know each other only by their "dog's" name , not their own! Dog parks have many positive benefits to both dogs and owners providing there are rules and everyone abides by them and respects other dog owners and their dogs.

On the negative side of things ,despite efforts to ensure only dogs with good manners come to parks, there can still be fights that break out amongst dogs in dog parks. Under the right (or wrong) conditions, any dog can play rough or get into a fight. Dogs have been known to be injured at dog parks. Some of the rules that were spoken about prior can require owners to show some proof of vaccination before allowing their dogs to enter.

This can be a hassle and dogs can still pass on illnesses to each other. Some dogs such as pitbulls, rotweillers, and other more aggressive breeds are excluded from some parks. This can seem discriminatory to owners of these dogs when their dogs have been known to shown no signs of aggression. Other people feel that it's unfair to deny park privileges to intact dogs, especially when female dogs are not in season.

As with many situations, much of the negative behavior that happens with dogs at dog parks is due to the lack of involvement of their owners. Even though it is a free environment and the dogs are enjoying themselves, owners still need to watch and understand their dog and his body language so that they can head off any altercations that may be brewing. With increased supervision on the part of dog owners, the likelihood of dogs getting hurt, either through rough play or by becoming involved in fights, can definatively be lowered. Some owners do not watch their dogs very carefully or they allow small dogs to pick fights with large dogs, or large dogs to run over small dogs. This then creates tension and bad feelings amongst the owners, which unbeknownst to many, can transfer to the dogs.

It's important to consider all of these different points when you are thinking of taking your own dog to a dog park. Ask yourself some honest questions. Is your dog friendly with other dogs? Is your dog up-to-date on his vaccinations? Does he have any kind of lingering virus that he might pass on to other dogs? Is he very small or very large or likely to be injured during play? Will he come to you when you call if there is any kind of trouble in the dog park? Will you be able to watch your dog carefully if you take him to the dog park?

Whether or not dog parks are good or bad for your dog requires that you give these questions careful consideration before deciding if you want to take your dog to the park. Dog parks can be lots of fun for dogs but it's up to you to look out for your dog and keep him safe wherever you take him.

Darcy Austin is the chief editor of Dog Obedience University, an information-rich site that provides articles and resources on modifying your dog's behavior.
Go there and enroll in the free mini-course and learn more about reinforcing positive dog behavior.

Dog Nutrition Tips

Your dog's well being is as tied to its nutrition as yours is. Dogs, just like humans, have specific nutritional needs. It is very important to be aware of your dog's needs and feed him or her the best diet possible.

Not all commercial dog foods are alike. In fact they can be quite different in their contents. There is such a huge selection of brands and types, how do we know what is best for our dogs? Forget about advertising hype or price. Just because they say it is good for you dog, doesn't mean it is so. Also, just because the food is expensive, doesn't make it a good choice either. So how is one supposed to know? To start with, here are a few quick ways to check if the dog food you are using may not be right for your dog.

* The dog is often ill

* The dog gets worms frequently

* The dog has severe flea problems

* He seems to have no energy

* He seems to be restless

* His coat is dull and not soft

* His shedding is excessive

* The dog burps a lot

* The dog has bad breath

* He has gas problems

* His stools are large and/or loose

* He doesn't seem to like his food

* His teeth are dirty and brown

All of these conditions can occur in all dogs from time to time and would be considered normal. However, if several of them occur on a regular basis, it could be time to take a look at his diet.

Dogs are Carnivores!

Dogs are meat eaters and not vegetarians. Dogs need meat! One only needs to look at a dog's teeth to know they are born meat eaters. Their teeth are not like ours. They are designed only for tearing meat apart. They don't have the flat, grinding teeth we do which are made for grains. No digestion takes place in the mouth like ours does, and all the enzymes in his digestive system primarily have the ability to break down and digest meat and raw foods. Yes, your dog is a carnivore!

Protein

Protein is the dogs most needed nutrient! Dog food packaging shows the amount of protein in the food. Not only is the percentage of protein in the food important, but the source of the protein is important. Unfortunately, the protein found in dog food can come from any source. Protein from plants can be included in the protein content.

Labeling laws require that the most common ingredients be listed first. So if the first few ingredients are plant in nature, you can be sure that is where much of the protein is coming from. Much of the protein in dog food may be coming from wheat, rice, soy, and corn. Dog food manufactures use these plant sources for protein because they are cheaper. But your dog is a carnivore who NEEDS protein from animal sources!

Protein Deficiencies in Dogs

If your dogs are deficient in proper proteins, he or she may show the following symptoms:

* Aggression

* The development of epilepsy

* The development of cancer

* Bladder, liver, heart, or thyroid problems

* Tail Chasing

* Being timid

* Excessive shedding

* Bent or crooked whiskers

* Vomiting or diarrhea

* Lack of appetite

* Slow healing wounds

Dogs that are extremely active need more protein from animal sources than do dogs that are inactive. House dogs that spend most of their time inside can get by with more grain based protein in their diet than active dogs.

It is the amino acids of proteins which your dog actually needs. Unfortunately heating food destroys some of these amino acids. All dry and canned foods have been heated during manufacturing. Dogs should be giving an amino acid supplement to make up for this loss of quality in the amino acids. Ask your vet for advice on this.

Puppies and Protein

In a dog's first year of growth, he needs almost twice as much protein than an adult dog. This is because muscles and other tissue are primarily built with amino acids. Even a short period of time in a dog's first year without proper levels of protein can result in problems later in the dog's life. The correct food is absolutely important during the puppy's growth year.

When buying puppy food, it is very important that two of the first three ingredients be animal proteins and not plant proteins. It is even better if the first two are both animal proteins. Foods with two or more plant proteins in the first three should not be fed to the puppy.

Carbohydrates

Dogs also need carbohydrates. But not many are needed to stay healthy! Carbohydrates are used by the dog for proper stool consistency, some energy requirements, and proper thyroid function. Too many carbohydrates in a dog's diet result in large, smelly stools, bad breath, sore gum's and tartar on the teeth. Rice, oats, and barley are the best choices for carbohydrates. Foods with soy are not advised because of how it slows absorption of other nutrients. You may ask yourself how wolves, dogs' direct ancestors, and/or wild dogs would get their carbohydrates.

Dogs need so little carbohydrates that in the wild they would get them from the digestive tracts of the animals they would catch and eat. Mice and rabbits will almost always have partially digested carbohydrates in their system. And yes, when our dogs catch a rabbit, NOTHING is left. They eat the whole thing...fur, bones, insides...everything! We are always glad to see when they have caught one because we know they are getting some good nutrients in the most natural way.

Fats

Dogs also need fat in their diets. Fats are either polyunsaturated or saturated. When dry dog foods are made, fat is sprayed on them. Fat not only makes the food taste better (just like it does with our food). Saturated fat comes from animal sources and unsaturated fat is plant based. Too much saturated fat can lead to loss of energy, dry skin, and heart problems. Too much animal fat may cause the dog to become fat, increase the likelihood of mammary gland tumors and can lead to cancer in the digestive system.

Polyunsaturated fats in dog food come from flax seed oil, safflower oil, wheat germ, and olive oil. This fat is needed for the dog's skin and coat health. Also, too little plant fat can lead to belly or thigh lesions, itching, poor blood clotting, skin ulcers, and improper growth.

Vitamins

Dogs, just like humans, need vitamins too. Vitamins B and C are water soluble and A, D K, and E are fat soluble. The water soluble vitamins are the most fragile and are often destroyed in the heating process of foods. There is some debate about a dog's need for vitamin C. Dog's, unlike humans, produce vitamin C (just like we produce vitamin D). But there is some research suggesting that what a dog produces is not enough. This is especially true for puppies. You should talk to your vet about your dog's vitamin needs. He may suggest a vitamin supplement. Along with the vitamin supplement, a mineral supplement may also be advised.

Water

A dog should have access to fresh water at all times. The only time this rule should be modified is when house breaking a puppy. Then you can limit the dog's water intake in the evening so he can make it through the night.

Commercial Dog Food versus Natural Foods

A dog's most natural food is raw meat. They can digest raw meat in about 5 hours. But it can take over 15 hours for a dog to digest a meal of dried dog food. This is because they have the correct and needed enzymes to digest raw foods.

They do not have enough enzymes to rapidly digest dried foods. So the dry food sits in their stomachs until enough enzymes can be sent to the stomach for digestion. Many experienced dog owners wholeheartedly embrace the idea of giving their dogs all natural foods. The draw back to this is that it can be expensive and requires considerable time. If one is interested, there are many books available on the topic of cooking for your dog.

We like to offer our dogs a compromise. We give them plenty of people food during the week, and we hope this helps better balance their diets. We give them a lot of eggs (including the shells), milk and cheese, chicken parts, meat, and other meat and dairy products they seem to like. You will find that there are some things your dog won't digest well.

If a dog will eat them, it is fine to give your dog any and all kinds of salad ingredients such as carrots, radishes, cucumbers, and lettuce ...all in small quantities. Again, just experiment in small amounts to see what your dog likes and can digest well. But don't overdo it on the pure people food. Just a little bit will go a long way for them. But give them as much meat as you can. Buy an extra t-bone next time for your canine! And remember, there is no need to cook it for him!

Bones

One of Storm's greatest joys is chewing on a giant ham bone! He can spend hours and hours on one. And he will not stop until the whole thing is gone. Yes, he will keep chewing until the entire bone is gone! The nutrients in the bone are great for him, and chewing on one keeps his teeth clean! When it comes to chicken bones, we have mixed emotions. For the past ten years we always gave our dogs chicken bones. They love them!

At Thanksgiving time, the dogs would get the "remains" of the boned turkey. We never had one single problem. After all, when one of our dogs catches a rabbit, they eat the whole thing. There is nothing left of the rabbit. However, in the past few months we have been reading more and more about the dangers of cooked chicken bones. They have been known to puncture the digestive tracts of some dogs. So we have stopped giving them the chicken bones just to be safe. Some vets say that uncooked chicken bones are fine since they won't splinter.

Steve Weber owns http://www.CactusCanyon.com which offers advice and natural products to owners of dogs with arthritis.

Old Dogs 101 - How to Help Your Canine Senior Live As Comfortably As Possible

Reaching old age for a dog is often the result of good luck, good life habits by the dog's owner, and in the end, just plain good genetics. If you already have an old dog, skip over the next paragraph and read ahead for tips on caring for your senior citizen. But if you're in the market for a new dog, there is a recipe to help improve your future pet's odds for longevity.

The list of ingredients starts with a puppy bred by a responsible breeder. Prospective parents should be screened with health tests appropriate for their breed before being bred. Add to that a nurturing and stimulating puppy hood. Next, feed a quality premium food for the life of the dog.These days there are specialty diets for puppies and seniors, giant breeds and toys, food for joint health and for dogs with diabetes or kidney disease. Feed the diet that's right for your dog. Blend in regular examinations with a veterinarian. Vaccinations are available to prevent 13 different canine diseases and dental check-ups should be as routine as an inoculations. Mix in a safe environment. That means a fenced yard or leashed walks, fenced or covered ponds and swimming pools, an I.D. tag on their collar, and protection from household chemicals, dangerous wildlife and dogs you don't know. Let this all sit until your dog is old, gray, grizzled and has more love for you than ever before.

When is a dog old? We used to think that every dog year was equivalent to seven human years. Experts now tell us that a dog's size and breed influence this answer and there are charts to be found on the Internet that are the updated versions of this information.

Once you determine that your dog is "old," what next? Let's break down the areas which most immediately impact your old dog:

Nutrition: Energy requirements decrease about 20 - 20% in senior dogs which accounts for the increased percentage of fat content in their bodies Fat dogs die younger than leaner dogs. Keep your oldster trim; It used to be believed that reduced protein spared the kidneys in older dogs. In the book, "Eternal Puppy." written by Janice Willard, DVM, however, the author shares studies that suggest that older dogs need more high quality protein, not less, to prevent muscle wasting. Optimal protein levels are a controversial topic among nutritionists, but unless your dog has kidney disease, it may not be a good idea to reduce your old dog's protein intake. Older dogs have decreased intestinal motility which sometimes make them more prone to constipation. Avoid a high fiber diet, but with your vet's consent, consider increasing soluble and insoluble fibers.Consumption of vegetables, especially leafy greens, correlate with a reduction in certain forms of cancer, so consider adding a few fruit and vegetables to your dog's diet - very slowly, at first. Give it frequently even if it isn't eaten. Old dogs don't always enjoy new things, but if offered routinely or in different form (frozen peas as a crunchy treat vs cooked ones) they may take to it.Add omega-3 fatty acids (fish oil) to your dog's diet; Studies have shown that Fish oil supplementation may be helpful for pets with inflammatory diseases including allergies, arthritis, kidney disease, heart disease, and cancers.You may not notice changes for at least six to eight weeks, so be patient, and be sure to consult your veterinarian when embarking on anything new.

Flooring: Hard flooring is not only hard on a dog's joints, but offers little traction and puts an old dog at risk for blowing out an ACL or hip. Put down small vinyl-backed rugs for those high traffic spots where the dog is apt to turn a corner or run to go outside.

Bedding: Your senior will spend more time sleeping, so offer the best kind of bedding you can mange. Here are some of your choices:Heated dog beds can be highly therapeutic for dogs with achy joints. They work like heating pads and are especially appreciated by thin and/or tiny dogs Gel filled orthopedic beds offer maximum support, comfort and superior weight distribution. The new Gel foam beds contain heat sensitive memory foam type material that custom forms to pets' bodies, easing pressure on legs and hips. The gel helps keep pets cool in the summer by maintaining a lower ambient temperature, while the foam helps keep pets warm in the winter with dense insulation. Memory foam beds are made from (ta da!) memory foam which was first developed by NASA years ago. Foam beds are another type of body-conforming bed that reduces pressure on joints. Dog Waterbeds can provide therapeutic benefits for pain, Hip Dysphasia, Cushing's Disease, Hygromas, Allergies, Calluses, Post Surgery, Senior Canines, Post Chemotherapy, Skin Conditions, Elbow Dysphasia, and Canine Auto-Immune Hemolytic Anemia. Standard orthopedic beds are generally made with a 3" egg crate. Although these beds are probably the lowest in price, the aforementioned options tend to provide better support and comfort for an old dog.

Incontinence: It happens to the best of us. Don't get mad since given the choice, your dog would rather not have the problem, either. In many cases of canine incontinence, a hormone deficiency is the source of the problem and these are typically treated through the use of drugs such as Diethylstilbestrol. If your vet determines that there is no medical reason for incontinence other than simple aging, however, there are several solutions to combat everything from periodic "dribbling"to all-out flooding;- Just pick the one best for your dog's situation: If the problem occurs during crating or in the night when your dog is sleeping and s/he doesn't move around much, re-usable protective pads will work just fine. There are a mind-numbing array of disposable options which a Google search will display.

If the problem is more "mobile," there are disposable diapers that feature elastic, no-leak gathers and resealable Velcro tape. You can also make your own "belly bands" for boys and again, a Google search will show you how. For a "no sew" version, insert a sanitary napkin inside the length of a man's crew sock (the man should be out of the sock when you do this), and attach sticky-backed Velcro at each end. One economical solution to pricey disposables is to purchase two or three washable diapers in which pads can be inserted and disposed of when soiled.We've been impressed with the fit and durability of Simple Solutions diapers which can be found at Petsmart.

The Handicapped Dog: Older dogs, or dogs with arthritis, degenerative myelopathy (DM) and spinal problems can sometimes lose the use of their back legs. This is NOT catastrophe. A dog can still walk and get the exercise they need with a sling or dog wheelchair. To see a dog wheelchair in action, check out "Denali" on Google. For some dogs, a sling works perfectly well as it allows the dog's owner to maneuver medium and large dogs without lifting the entire weight of the dog. If this looks like a solution for you, be sure to get a sling that's ergonomically designed with adjustable handles that allow you to stand erect and maintain your center of gravity.You can't very well help your disabled dog if your own back is thrown "out.'

Hearing Loss: By the time an owner notices hearing loss in their dog - usually in the 4th quarter of a dog's life, it's probable that the loss has been progressive and has finally passed a threshold where it's now noticeable. Hearing aids are still impractical for a dog and we are left to do what we can to protect the dog. We should be especially careful when walking a hearing impaired dog off-lead. Such a dog won't hear his owner call from a distance and may well get lost and become at risk from approaching cars or other animals.

Blindness: The cloudiness we see in our senior dogs' eyes is usually sclerosis, or hardening of the lens of the eye. The light-transmitting capabilities of the lens is still intact and the dog has lost little of its vision, so think of as looking through a cheap shower curtain. Up close, you can see through the curtain, but at a distance, it's a bit more opaque. Glaucoma and cataracts do occur in dogs and any changes in vision, discharge, squinting, swelling or redness should be seen by a vet right away. If nothing can be done to reverse blindness, take heart in the fact that blind dogs adjust pretty well by using memorized routes around the house and feel the vibrations from radios, TVs and the floor to gauge where they are.

Taste: A geriatric dog may have only 25% of the taste buds he had at a year old, so if your senior is losing weight for no apparent reason that a vet can determine, food may have become tasteless for your dog. Try increasing the tastiness of food with eggs, seasonings, shredded cheeses (especially the "smelly" kind), a sprinkling of fish bits or a "schmear" of Braunschweiger over the top of the food.

Arthritis:Because cartilage cannot repair itself,it is impossible to heal arthritis once it has begun.At best, we can slow degeneration, reduce inflammation and limit pain. Most of us are familiar with Rimadyl, a steroidal anti-inflammatory drug used for the relief of arthritic symptoms in geriatric dogs. Aspirin, even low dosage or buffered, is NOT a good option for pain management in dogs. Studies show increased risk of stomach bleeding. Don't do it. Currently, early research looks promising with glucosamine and chondroitin combinations and omega-3 fatty acids. In our own house, each adult dog gets 1,200 mg. of fish oil, and a table that combines 1500 mg of glucosamine with 1200 mg of chondroitin daily. Our veterinarian is fine with this, but always check with your own vet before starting anything new. Substances such as MSM, hyaluronic aci, New Zealand green-lipped mussels and other antioxidents may also benefit cartilage and joint fluid, but the jury is out on how they work and because these substances aren't regulated by the FDA for dogs, dog owners have to be careful.

Dentistry: By four years of age, 85% of dogs will have some form of periodontal disease. Older dogs are at an increased risk for dental disease because they have reduced salivary production. With a drier mouth, food sticks to teeth more which increases bacteria. Bacteria can enter the bloodstream and travel to places it doesn't belong. Periodontal disease has been implicated in the development and acceleration of diseases in the kidneys, heart, liver and brain. CLEAN YOUR DOG'S TEETH. If your dog's teeth have been neglected, a professional cleaning may be in order. Ask your vet about putting the dog on a course of antibiotics before the scheduled cleaning to combat bacteria, and make sure they are aware of the dog's age. Anesthesia has come a long way and isn't quite as risky for an old dog as it used to be. But it's still anesthesia and should be seriously considered before using, particularly if your breed has issues with anesthesia.

IVD or Idiopathic Vestibular Disease is the most common disease on old dogs that you may not be familiar with. Characterized by symptoms that almost resemble a stroke, these signs include a head tilt, nausea and rapid eye movement. To learn more about this syndrome, check out the January 2008 issue of KnobNotes in our archives to read more about IVD, also known as the geriatric disease.

Boredom: Most dogs are active by default, hunting, show and performance dogs even more so. But when physical abilities diminish and a dog becomes less capable of their former tasks, other ways must be found to keep their minds active. Toys are only toys if the dog interacts and plays with them, otherwise they become just more "stuff" on the living room floor. Food puzzles are rewarding because they invite interaction. The Molecuball, Buster Cube,Busy Buddies and Canine Genius all offer interesting food puzzles that help stimulate a dog's mind as they reward effort.

We're just scratched the surface of issues that confront senior dogs and their owners. If you are blessed with an "oldster" in your house, you'll want to investigate some great books that offer additional information:

"Eternal Puppy" by Janice Willard, DVM;

"How To Make An Old Dog Happy" by Olivier Lagalisse;

"Speaking for Spot," by Dr. Nancy Kay "The Senior Dog" by Heike Schmidt-Roger/ Susanne Blank;

S.E.Szeremy is a writer, breeder/owner/handler of Pulik and creator of [http://KnobNots.com], the Friendly Alternative to Beware of Dog signs that transform every door into a safety billboard for people and pets

Stormy Weather - Or, Dogs Behaving Badly During Storms and 4th of July

June is typically the start of storm season in many parts of the country. Statistically, the number of dogs dropped off at animal shelters rises immediately after a thunder storm, possibly because owners are ill equipped to deal with pets who are traumatized by thunder and lightening. In this article, I discuss causes and solutions for dogs who react badly to storms and loud sounds like firecrackers.

According to Dr. Nancy Dreschel, a veterinarian who conducted a study on storm anxiety in dogs, 15% to 30% of dogs are affected by fear of thunderstorms; The Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association also reported that herding dogs, such as Collies and German Shepherds, and hounds, such as Beagles and Basset Hounds, seem to be more likely to develop a storm phobia than other dogs. The phobia is also common in sporting and working breeds.

The study suggests that this tendency may be explained in terms of the dogs' genetics. For example, herding dogs have been bred to react quickly to stimuli, such as a calf wandering away from the herd, but not to be aggressive. It could be that herding dogs have a strong reaction to the startling noises and flashes of a storm, but they repress any aggressive response to it causing anxiety.Shelter dogs seem to have a higher incidence of storm phobia, perhaps due to insecure feelings or previous scary experiences. Dogs who have separation anxiety are also more likely to have noise and thunderstorm phobias.

But can a fear of storms be more environmentally related than we realize? Storms cause a change in air pressure which may be painful to a dog's ears. A terrific guide to understanding the importance of sound to your dog's being is the book, "Through a Dog's Ear." Electricity in the air may also be a major factor in dog storm phobia as well as the change in the smell of the air that a dog with his acute sense of smell detects.

Might storms be even scarier to a dog who has been trained with an electronic collar, or frightened by a static shock in everyday life? There are more questions about the effect of electricity on dogs than we have answers but addressing the problem is in the best interest of both dog and owner since a fear of storms could become a phobia leading to a fear of anything associated with storms: the sound of firecrackers, gunshots, and even the sound of birds.

So what are the best ways to deal with a dog who has a fear of storm? In the following paragraphs I'll toss out a whole range of ideas; Consider which ones sound like they could work for your dog, your lifestyle, and as always, discuss your options with your dog's veterinarian.

A Penn State study of purebreds and mixed breeds measured cortisol levels, a stress hormone, in storm phobic dogs and it was found that dogs in multiple-dog households were less fearful than dogs in one-dog households. So maybe you might want to add another dog to your home.

Your own behavior is critical in helping a storm phobic dog; If you yourself are nervous during a storm, this can transfer to your dog. Remain upbeat and in charge. Never yell at, punish, or try to restrain a terrified dog - it never helps and only increases his terror. Neither should you comfort the dog because she will interpret this as confirmation that there really is something to be afraid of. The petting or comforting is really positive reinforcement of an undesirable behavior and even a benign, "That's ok" may give the wrong signal.

Changing the dog's environment of during the storm (or 4th of July) can reduce the anxiety level or make the dog less aware of it. "White noise," like a fan or air conditioner can help block out some noise, so can a TV or radio. Allowing the pet access to an area or room without outside walls or windows can decrease noise level. Some pets seek out the safety of a bathtub or shower during a storm and some experts have hypothesized that a pet may feel less static electricity if they're on tile or porcelain. Crating the dog may make the dog feel more secure when he's in a smaller space: Cover the crate with a blanket and leave the door open.

Harp music may also be an answer. That's right - harp. Harp therapy has drawn the interest of veterinarians and animal behaviorists who believe that vibrations of harp strings send out overtones, some inaudible to the human ear.It's suspected that the harmonic overtones work at a cellular level and reduce stress levels even in deaf animals who appear to relax when they feel the vibrations. Dogs must hear at least three minutes of music for it to take effect. Contact me for more information on finding the kind of harp music that's been effective with storm phobic dogs.

Another way to alter the dog's environment during a storm? Play! Depending on the dog's anxiety level, sometimes simply distracting him may be the best course of action. Sing songs, play with toys that make sounds or speak, yawning repeatedly and make big, loud, exaggerated yawns that your dog will see and respond to. Exercise the dog as much as you can to try to wear her out. Help your dog associate thunder with wonderful playtime!

Female dogs secrete pheromones that comfort nursing puppies and have a similar calming effect on adult dogs. Some believe that releasing these pheromones into a dog's environment calms him during a storm, so look into something called the DAP Dog Appeasing Pheromone Electric Diffuser which, as the name implies, diffuses this scent into the air at the right levels.

Hug Therapy includes "Body wrapping" that seems to calm and focus some anxious and stressed dogs. Neurobiologists believe that trauma can damage nerve receptors, leading to exaggerated responses to stimuli. By applying constantly maintained pressure, a wrap provides a quieting stimulus that causes the receptors to adapt and modify their thresholds in a cumulative manner.A variety of techniques for "wrapping" a dog range from using T-shirts to elastic bandage wraps. Or, consider using the Anxiety Wrap -- a sturdy, stretchy vest that hugs the torso like a body stocking and comes in a variety of sizes. This item is said to work so well that it's been successfully used for separation anxiety, car-sickness, hyperactivity and many other behavioral quirks. Look for it on the Internet.

There's a product called "Mutt Muffs," a "head-band-that fits over-dog ears" that's made of the same eosin foam used in high-end noise reducing commercial head sets.With a proper fit, a dog can't shake it off. The ThunderBand works much the same way but includes dog "earplugs" and a cozy comforting head wrap. Both products work by incorporating "hug" therapy with noise reduction.

Some dog owners find that homeopathic remedies can be helpful such as Phosphorous PHUS 30C available in health food stores. This is a natural compound used for fear of thunder or loud noises and typical protocol is to drop 3 to 5 pellets down the back of the dog's throat (do not touch the pellets with your hand) every fifteen minutes until you start to see results. Then stop. If Phosphorous does not seem to work, during the next storm try Aconitum Napellus 30C and administer it in the same manner. Practitioners of homeopathy point out that a remedy either will work or not, but it will not harm the dog or cause side effects. Either way, consult your vet.

Personally speaking, I've never found Flower remedies to be very effective at calming phobias or anxiety, but if you'd like to give it a try, Rescue Remedy, Calming Essence or Five Flower Formula would be where you'd start. Again, look on the Internet for Flower Essences.

An article in The Whole Dog Journal reports that one of the most effective treatments for thunderstorm phobia is melatonin, an over-the-counter hormone used by humans to treat insomnia.Melatonin is sold in capsules and tablets in health food stores, pharmacies and some supermarkets. It's important to read the labels on melatonin bottles very carefully as some are mixed with herbs or nutrients that may not be safe for dogs. It may not be right for your dog is s/he has autoimmune disease or severe liver or kidney disease and ALWAYS check with your veterinarian before giving any medication.

Our least favorite remedy is also the only solution for some dogs: pharmaceutical medication, and it should NEVER be given without consulting your veterinarian. Two traditionally used tranquilizers are Acepromazine and Valium. "Ace" is classified as a major tranquilizer and is a very strong drug that at effective doses produces heavy sedation and incoordination. Valium, on the other hand, may not be strong enough to block severe phobic responses and is so short acting that it may not be effective for afternoon thunderstorms when given in the morning by working owners.

One drug that seems to offer promising results in dogs with mild (not severe) symptoms is Buspirone while the latest preferred medication is Clomipramine (Clomicalm) which has been approved by the FDA for treating separation anxiety in dogs. This is closely related to amitriptyline, a drug that has had beneficial results on thunder-phobic dogs. Other drugs to ask your vet about are:Alprazolam (Xanax),Amitriptyline(Elavil),Buspirone (Buspar),Clomipramine (Clomicalm),Clorazepate (Tranxene),Diazepam (Valium) ,Fluoxetine (Prozac),Inderal Paroxetine (Paxil) and

Tranxene-SD. Just remember: NEVER NEVER NEVER administer any medication without consulting your vet first. Did I say NEVER?

None of the aforementioned solutions will be of much help to you if your phobic dog is a show dog since you can't very well drug him, wrap her in a t-shirt or play harp music to her in the show ring. And that's why out of all the solutions I've mentioned thus far, I feel that behavior modification either through desensitization or counter-conditioning is the best long term solution for all dogs, be they show dogs or couch potatoes.

Desensitization is a process by which an anxiety producing stimulus, in this case thunder, is presented so subtly as to not produce a fearful response. Using a recording of the sound, say, thunder, very gradually the volume of the sound but always keeping it below the fear producing threshold. Over time, the volume is increased. You can find instructions on how to desensitize a dog on the Internet; Airedale owner, Dale Burrier, has also posted a fun approach to desensitizing a dog to using a paper bag. The Internet and high end pet shows are also where you'll find CDs and audiotracks of common noises such as thunder, firecrackers, trucks, wind, etc.

Counter conditioning is when a negative stimulus (firecrackers or thunderstorms) can become associated with a positive event. For instance, the only time the pet gets his most favorite treat, game, or toy, is just prior to and during a thunderstorm.

Together, you and your dog can get through storm phobia as long as you have patience and compassion to find the best approach for your dog.

S.E.Szeremy is a writer. She has been an owner/breeder/handler of Pulik since 1978 and is the creator of KnobNots.com, Door Alerts that Transform every Door into a Safety Billboard for People and Pets.