Dog Boredom - Easy Solutions and Tools

Dog boredom affects many pets when they are left home alone but in the crazy world we live in today with work, school and activities just don't allow for your dog to join you every place you go. Unfortunately, this leaves many dogs home alone and bored. How do you know if your dog is bored? There are many tell-tell signs.

Leaving or Coming Home - if your dog is shaking, trembling, excessively drooling or even hyperventilating then you have a serious boredom and anxiety problem with your dog.
Path of Destruction - When you come home is their a path of destruction including chewed furniture, torn clothing or the trash can contents strung through the entire house.
Accidents - Are they urinating or leaving feces in the house. Some dogs with high anxiety will also vomit in the house.
Hate Mail - Do your neighbors leave horrible messages on your answering machine or tape notes to your door complaining about the barking or whining while you were gone.
Outdoors - Is your dog digging giant holes to China while you are gone or perhaps they've become an amazing escape artist and slip out of the yard while you are at work. Have they chewed up every garden tool, sprinkler and lawn furniture you own, then you definitely have a bored outside dog.

If your dog is exhibiting any of these behaviors, then you definitely have a dog boredom problem. The next step is to understand their boredom and find solutions to occupy their time while you are gone. Many pet owners feel bad leaving their dog's home alone but they just don't know what to do about it.

Where to Begin

Begin by telling yourself that it is okay to leave your dog home alone but it is your responsibility to give them the tools to occupy their time in a productive manner. What many pet parents do not know is that the destructive and anxiety ridden behavior their dog exhibits, often happens within the first thirty minutes after they have left the home.

Many dogs have difficulty coping with boredom and the anxiety caused from separation and you must find multiple ways to calm and distract them to alleviate this behavior. It's important to keep in mind that dog's do not become destructive or potty on the floor to hurt you or provoke a reaction from you either. This behavior is brought on by boredom and anxiety.

Dog's do not intentionally set out to be naughty or "get back" at you for leaving them alone. They simply require stimulation to keep them entertained and active to avoid this destructive behavior.

Find Activities for Your Dog

The next step is to find fun, exciting and entertaining activities that will give your dog the stimulation they need to start avoiding and even conquering the boredom and anxiety problems. Every dog is different and has different likes and dislikes, so use the suggestions below as a starting point and then build on them with your own experience and insight of your dog.

Exercise - Now making sure your dog gets plenty of exercise is extremely important but the goal you are shooting for is to stimulate them in the area where they are going to be located during your absence. Whether it's inside the home or in the backyard, focusing on their location is key. Make that space a puppy playground that they will be excited to use.
Games - You can find dozens of fun games that you can play with your dog or teach them to play on their own. One great activity is a version of hide and seek. Take a few low calorie treats or even some of their dog food and hide it around the room or in the yard. The first couple of times you play, you will want to make your dog part of the hiding process so they will understand and see that you are hiding their food. This way they will know to look for it. Never hide in hard to reach places, just casually put them out all over the room. The point is for them to find them fairly easy and keep them active and entertained.
Toys - There are some amazingly fun toy available today that can keep a dog's attention for long periods of time. One of my dog's favorites is the dog toys that you can stuff full of treats or food. Put a bit of peanut butter inside one of these toys and your dog will work for hours getting every last drop out. Our other favorite is the new Crazy Critters or stuffing free toys. My Maddie can destroy a new chew toy within a day or two if it's not up to snuff but we've had our Crazy Critters toy for just over three months now and the two dogs are just now managing to tear it up. This is their favorite toy and they play with it everyday. Their favorite game is tug-o-war but they both play with it individually too. This toy is washable, strong and durable and doesn't leave stuffing all over your floor! There are many, many other toy choices. Buy an assortment and see what your dog really likes.
Balls - I suppose balls are technically a toy too but in my house balls rule. It doesn't matter what kind of ball it is, Rodeo will play with it and officially claim it as his own! He will play ball for hours with us or on his own. My daughters dog loves to throw the ball way up in the air by himself and chase it down. Never underestimate the value of a simple ball to keep your dog active.
Frozen Treats - Try freezing pet milk, soup or broth for your dog and leave the frozen block in a bowl when you leave. As they melt, they are an enticing treat that they will continue to work at until it completely unfreezes.
Doggy Day Care - If you have tried and tried multiple activities and your dog just isn't able to stay alone, doggy day care is an excellent alternative. They take walks, play games, get treats and a multitude of other activities to help entertain your dog for the day.
Dog Walkers - Hiring a dog walker to stop by the house and take your dog for a walk everyday is a great way to break the day up for your dog. It gives them exercise and outside stimulation. If your dog is an outside dog, consider asking the dog walker to spend part of the time in the backyard itself playing games. This will give your dog a companion and enforce the fun of the space.
Companion Dogs or an Elderly Companion - You could consider bringing another dog into the home for a companion but this doesn't always work out and can even make the problem worse if your dog doesn't want another dog around. Try asking a friend and their dog over first a few times to see how your dog reacts to another dog before making that decision. Another option that recently caught my eye was elderly companions. The idea is to find an elderly person that loves animals and would also benefit from the daily companionship. Try your neighbors or check with your friends for potential candidates. You can also check with some retirement facilities to see if they have an animal program for your dog to come visit on certain days of the week. Dogs are very sensitive and seem to know the difference between people when it comes to children and the elderly. My dog Rodeo is extremely active being a Border Collie but last Christmas I watched him play ball with my Grandmother, who is in her 90's, and gently bring the ball back to her each time and put it right in her lap. She loved it and I realized then that not only had Rodeo been stimulated but so had my Grandma both physically throwing the ball and engaging in conversation with Rodeo. What a Great Moment!
Dog Sitter DVD's - This is something I only recently found but I think it is an outstanding idea. Many people utilize the radio or TV by leaving it on when they leave to help their dog with boredom and panic attacks. However, now you can take that one step further by using a dog sitter DVD. The dog sitter DVD's I looked at offered a great way to not only stimulate your dog physically but mentally. The video contain sounds that only your dog can hear and often include multiple animals such as birds, racoons and squirrels to stimulate your dog. They offer your dog a virtual outdoors with lots of animal friends to help them from feeling alone. There were many to choose from and I plan to try this out for my own dogs.

Fighting dog boredom and anxiety seem overwhelming and even impossible when you are facing a destructive scene and an unhappy dog but with a few simple tools and a little time and effort on your part, you can give your dog plenty of exciting and stimulating things to do. Imagine the difference of coming home to a nice calm, clean house and a happy dog.

I left the business world to pursue my passion of working with animals while trying to improve my health. To do this, I am using my 20+ years experience as a dog breeder and pet owner. I also worked for a well known veterinarian and national vet supply company for several years. I have a B.S. In Agriculture with an emphasis in Animal Science and Ag Business and I worked in the Agriculture Business Industry for over twenty years. If you are interested in the details of how the right dog food, dog care and just good old fashioned love and affection can help your dog live a healthier and longer life, please join us at: http://www.love-your-dog-food.com

Would You Pay for Dog Food That Will Dramatically Shorten the Life of Your Pet? Of course not. Not on purpose. But when you buy the wrong dog food, that may be exactly what you're doing.

Solve the Dog Food Puzzle is an e-book that will:
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Make the Right Decision for Your Dog's Health Today: http://www.love-your-dog-food.com/solve-the-dog-food-puzzle.html

Winterize Your Dog - How to Care for Your Dog in the Winter

Just like people, dogs have special needs during the cold weather to keep them safe, healthy and happy. It is important for you to make sure that certain precautions are taken during the winter season for the protection and well-being of your dog. This article is stock-full of information on what to do and what not to do with and for your dog during the winter and colder months. Following these guidelines will help your dog stay out of harm's way and allow you and your dog to enjoy what can be a great time of year!

Provide Fresh Water

Make sure your dog has fresh water during the colder months just as you would during the warmer months. They are just as likely to become dehydrated in the cold weather as they are in the warm weather. Remember that snow is not a good substitute for fresh water. Even if your dog stays out side, snow will not replace fresh water. It is especially important to make sure that they have a fresh supply of water if they stay outside in the cold as the water will freeze - so change it regularly.

Provide Adequate & Quality Food

If your dog is outside a lot or is a working dog, he will need extra calories to keep his body temperature regulated in the cold as it takes more energy for his body to do this. Make sure to feed a quality food so that your dog gets adequate nutrients (you'll also have fewer poops to pick up!). A good general rule of thumb to figure out if the food is a high quality - if you can find a dog food in the grocery store...DO NOT BUY IT! Go to a pet store and read the ingredients on the bag. The first three ingredients should be some type of meat (2 ingredients) and a whole grain, like rice (1 ingredient). Stay away from corn as it is just a filler - and a low quality one at that.

Keep Your Dog's Paws Clean and Dry

Make sure to rinse and dry your dog's paws after walks and being outside during the winter. You can use either a warm, damp washcloth or a bucket of warm water to wash your dog's feet and any other affected areas like the legs, belly and face. It also cleans away any salt, sand or other irritants that are used on the roads and sidewalks that can get on your dog's pads. This will help avoid pain due to tiny cuts and cracked pads caused by the cold, ice and snow. Using bag balm or petroleum jelly helps to keep the pads on your dog's paws soft and prevents further cracking. If your dog will wear booties they can be good protection also. Dogs can also get ice balls between their pads from walking in snowy areas. This can cause your dog to lift their paws or even limp. Make sure to clear the ice from between their pads. To help avoid this from happening, you can trim the hair between their pads and toes so that ice is less likely to build up there.

Keep Your Dog Warm and Dry - Shelter & Clothing

Yes, I said clothing! Some dogs need to wear a coat! Shelter from the elements is also a must - there is no way around it - whether your dog is an indoor or outdoor dog. Provide adequate shelter for your dog inside and out. If your dog is outside for long periods of time you need to make sure that he has a warm place to go to protect him from the cold weather and elements. It is imperative that your dog has an insulated dog house that can

shelter them from the extreme cold. I do strongly disagree with keeping your dog outside entirely or by themselves for long periods of time, but I do realize that there are people who do this. Hypothermia is a great risk for dogs that are left out in the cold for extended periods of time, due to snow, ice and freezing weather. All dogs can freeze to death, just because they have thick fur, or are "built" to be an outdoor dog, don't mean that they are not at risk. Understand that each town or city (even county) has specific laws about acceptable shelter,

restraints, protection and care of dogs (and other pets too). Failure to abide by the laws can be punishable by fines and even imprisonment. If you are unsure of what the laws are where you live you can contact your local Animal Control, Humane Society or even the ASPCA.

Your dog should not be exposed to extreme cold for long periods of time. If your dog has short fur, or is small, you should get him or her a "coat" of some type, whether it's a sweater or jacket, as long as it will help to keep your dog warm and dry. Certain breeds are more susceptible to the cold and precipitation making it necessary for them to wear a coat. Make sure to look for form over function so that it will stay on your dog and still allow them to move. Also, make sure that the coat goes off and on easily so that your dog won't mind wearing it and you won't mind dressing your dog. Always be sure to supervise your dog when in any type of clothing - never leave them unattended as they have the potential of injuring themselves, whether it is suffocation, strangulation, or tripping and falling, just to name a few possible injuries. Clothing will also make it so that you and your

dog can still get outside and walk or play when it is cold out. If your dog is inside, make sure to protect him against drafts and uncarpeted areas that can become extremely cold. Use blankets or rugs in these areas to help guard against the cold.

Groom Your Dog Regularly

Make sure to keep your dog's coat groomed properly so that it will keep your dog insulated from the cold. Always towel-dry, or blowdry, if your dog's fur gets wet in the snow or rain. Be sure to keep your dog's nails trimmed properly. Nails can tear, rip and break in the ice and snow. Nails also become more brittle during the winter

months, just as ours can, because they are drier. A ripped nail is very painful to a dog, especially when you combine the extreme cold of ice, snow or slush! If the nails are kept short, they are less likely to tear.

Beware of Winter Hazards

Cold - Do not leave your dog outside for long periods of time because dogs can get frostbite on their paws, tails and ears. The wind-chill makes days even colder than the thermometer says so be aware of this too.
Car - Do not leave your dog in the car when it is cold out. If the car is not running your dog runs the risk of hypothermia and if the car is running your dog runs the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. So if it's cold, leave your dog at home, in the comfort of his or her crate!
Ice & Snow - While the snow can be fun for you and your dog, the ice and snow can pose potential threats that you may not think about. Be careful while playing outside in the ice and snow as your dog can slip and fall and possibly become seriously injured. Snow also makes it harder for your dog to distinguish scents, making it easier for your dog to get lost. Some dogs can't resist the water, which in the freezing cold, could become a dangerous situation as your dog may jump into a frozen or ice-cold pond, lake or river. This can cause serious injury and even death.
Antifreeze - Antifreeze smells and tastes great to your dog! Unfortunately, antifreeze is POISONOUS and potentially DEADLY! Check to make sure your driveway is clear and your cars are not leaking antifreeze, and watch out for any suspicious liquid on the ground. Steer clear if you see something you are not sure about! Also, if possible, try to use products that contain propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol.
Carbon Monoxide - NEVER LEAVE YOUR DOG ALONE IN THE CAR WHILE IT IS RUNNING! Carbon Monoxide from an engine left running can be dangerous, if not lethal to your dog.

Leash Your Dog

According to the ASPCA, "Never let your dog off the leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm - dogs can lose their scent and easily become lost. More dogs are lost during the winter than during any other season, so make sure yours always wears ID tags." By keeping your dog on leash you are also able to keep them away from potentially dangerous situations and hazardous substances. In most places there are leash laws that you must abide by for these reasons (among others), so it is better to be safe than sorry!

Exercise

Exercise is extremely important to your dog. Regardless of what the weather is doing, your dog still needs exercise. Exercise boosts the metabolism, which in the colder weather, actually helps them to be warmer.

Try not to go outside for extended periods of time in the extreme cold. Instead, wait until days are milder to head outside, whether to play, walk, or run, and get some exercise. When the weather is too cold to be or play outside - you need to do more inside. Play games with your dog and keep him or her mentally stimulated and exercised to avoid boredom and restlessness. Games like Fetch and Find-It are great to play inside. You can also teach your dog to walk on the treadmill - this is a great form of physical exercise for your dog - and it is very easy to teach. You can have your dog walk for miles and walk, or run, at different speeds to tire them out. Mental and physical exercise is very important!

A FINAL WORD...

Remember, if it is cold for you, it is cold for your dog. Many of the basic principles that apply to people for cold weather apply to your dog too! IS YOUR DOG WINTERIZED?

Mandy Makein is an author and dog trainer. For more information on dog related issues visit her website at http://www.wecantrainanydog.com/

(c) Copyright Mandy Makein 2010. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.

The Dog Thinker and The Truth

I love dogs, so I often think, how, what, where and why dogs do what they do? My mission, has been to observe, and be active in my community, and anywhere to encourage dog awareness. Why? Because dogs need us. They depend on responsible humans to care for them. But as a dog thinker, I know more. It's the humans who NEED the dog more!

What made me decide to write this article? Well, I am a dog thinker, and am keen on dogs' behavior wherever they are. At home, on walks, at the park, at the beach, in a car, on a flat-bed truck, packed behind a motorcycle, just sitting, or laying down, standing and barking, and just being a dog.. Let me make it clear, I'm not a dog watcher, but a dog thinker. Every dog that crosses my path, my thoughts start considering what they may be experiencing. For example, I think, about the information, dogs are picking-up smelling as they walk along, or what makes them bark at some people and not others. I observe and think how human behavior change, and always for the better, when dogs are part of their lives. I sadly think how dogs go into destructive behavior in their own home when left alone for long stretches at a time each day. I think what dogs may be dreaming about with the strange antics they display during sleep. All so absorbing and challenging.

 

Many people make decisions about adding a dog to their family, and accept the responsibility caring for their needs. However, in addition to dog caring, other family responsibilities and jobs take up time and energy. Then again, there is another "family member," the computer. Convenient, efficient, informative, neat and organized, the internet has become a very important "family member!" Easy accessibility to information, personal acquaintances, family members, schools, doctors, churches, strangers, businesses and on-the-road connections has make life abundantly full. The downfall for many, is its addictiveness. So much attention given to the increasing wonders of the internet has made many people lose face-to-fact personal connections.

Dogs' don't use the internet.

Dogs' ears, nose, and mouth are, their internet.

Convenience, speed, and hunger for information has become a priority in today's lifestyle. Social media programs make-up for the lack of face-to-face person connections. We have Facebook, Twitter, MySpace, StumbleUpon, blogs, websites, email, Merchant Circle, LinkedIn, Skype, YouTube, Flicker, Snag-A-Job, Wikipedia, Search Engines and so much more to be thankful for in gaining friendships around the world.

Dog's don't use the internet.

Dogs' social scene is wherever they are.

Lifestyles in all economic levels are haute, when possessing the latest in internet accessories. We spend money, to make it convenient to NOT have face-to-face person contacts!

Dogs' don't use the internet.

Dogs' lifestyle is giving of themselves.

Meeting with others for creative thinking versus internet discussions are choices, but the internet wins all the time The energy for face-to-face contact has been diminishing. An in-person contact happens unrepentantly.In other words, why cross the street to visit someone, when you can email? Why in your own home, walk upstairs to tell your teenager dinner is ready, just email the "dinner bell!"

Dogs' don't use the internet.

Dogs' demonstrates constant awareness..

Dogs' "silent" manner has been taken for granted. Because they cannot talk, does not mean they are not aware of the environment or your senses. As a dog thinker, dogs don't want over-whelming attention. They enjoy their space to seek-out surroundings with their keen senses. So when you cuddle, or scratch them too much, they may walk away. They prefer attention only when they sense they are giving back to you.. They want to serve you, not you serve them "continuously. " Their independent desire, require you to hold-back at times, without too much "picking or squeezing their body." particularly they don't care when you play too much with their tail. Very importantly, dogs want to be correctly disciplined, so they can "read" how they can best give back to you.

The dogs' history goes back over 15,000 years ago when they were domesticated.Due to selective breeding by humans, the dog has developed into hundreds of varied breeds. Today we continue to be introduced to new breeds such as the now popular Labradoodle a mixture of a standard Poodle and a Labrador Retriever. Cross-breeding whether purposefully, or randomly, the dogs' demeanor with human relationships does not change. Dogs watch every move owners make, and know when their fur bundle is needed to give comfort. Trust me, I am the dog thinker.

Dogs don't use the internet.

Dogs' constant instinct remain the same... loyally attentive.

More people are adopting, purchasing, and gifting dogs at an alarming increasing rate today. Canine health-care professionals are increasing. Pet shops are growing throughout the world to satisfy dogs' sustainable needs. Specialty dog shops for toys, clothing, and home accessories are booming businesses.. Land is set aside for well-equipped dog parks. Laws are developing in dog communities for better maintenance. The dog food industry has grown so large, and continue to do so. We can earn and make a profit with dog businesses. With increasing interest in dog awareness, dogs have their thoughts about these as well! Dogs of all sizes,colors, patterns, weights, and attitudes are selected with such care and pride to become a family addition. Dogs, love going through the choice phase. They want to be chosen by someone who needs them. Not someone who is going to use them as a prop. It is my thinking from the dog's point of view, they don't care for the fancy clothing, shoes and accessories.. Dogs think, just keep me clean without the fancy stuff..."my fur is my clothing." They want treats and diversified meals healthy for them. They were not meant to wear leashes, but to run and romp.in large fields freely. However, they do know they would be safer in many cases when guided by their leader on a leash. They accept the loose leash, not the choked leash. They love yellow, and soft blues. They cannot see reds and greens. But, the foremost thought in a dog is their master. Trust me, dogs are aware that every busy household yearn and need them. Dogs want to be there for their owner and offer the calm, peace, love and loyalty missed during the owner's daily interaction with the internet and lack of personal face-to-face contacts.

Dog's don't use the internet.

Dogs PROVIDE for our HUMAN LACK.

 

"Dog!....come to papa!

Surprisingly, dog has been right by your side all the time.

Dog immediately awake to your sound.

Dog immediately jumps up to your knee, excited with love in his eyes.

Dog loves the stroking on his neck, as you do, so you stroke again.

Dog fulfills you with a peaceful and joyful energy, and therefore relaxes you after a day's work.

The release of endorphins for both human and dog, blooms with comfort, no human, or internet can give, and that is THE TRUTH.

Judith Catherine Lam, is a Canine Massage Therapist, under the auspices of Canine Visions For A Healthy Dog.
Canine Photography, Churchill's Favorite Treats, Canine Care, Canine Basic Training, and Maui Dog News complete the expanse of Canine Visions. WEBSITE: http://www.wix.com/caninevisions/caninemassagetherapist

What People Don't Know About Service Dogs or Service Animals

Basically, a service dog or animal is the same as an assistance dog that undergoes a lot of training to assist people suffering from disabilities - mental and physical. They can also be a best friend for people with severe depression. Service dogs can be specifically trained by service dog organization to do work or perform tasks for the benefit of an individual with a disability. However, the owner can also train the animal. Some dogs are donated from different breeders and some are abandoned dogs donated from local shelters. However, not all dogs can be a service dogs. Things like temperament, the ability to learn complex tasks, etc. Come into play within the dogs training. But any breed or mixture of breeds of dog might produce a representative capable of service work. In short, depending on breeds, your dog can have all of the qualities in terms of health, temperament, trainability and physical ability. These characteristics can lead them to be more than just your pet but a service dog/pet instead.

So, what's to expect after your dog has been certified? Honestly, for most, owners expect service dogs to be treated as animal on shift or working animal in public. Why? Simply because every owner's safety purely depends on dogs ability to handle distractions. During the training, your dog is prepared to avoid distraction as much as they can especially when wearing their gear and at the same time they are trained to be relax and friendly when the gear is removed. An owner's permission is a must before other people interacts with the dog while in public places.

What you might not know is that you can actually train your own service dogs. Nowadays, more people are choosing to train their own dog because there are times that training programs just aren't able to train the dog to the owner's individual needs. However, not all countries allow that type of training. Luckily, this is permitted to some countries including US but there are certain criteria to be considered. Trainers have to have skills which allows them to understand that their experience in training advanced service dogs are different from training the average dog simple obedience skills. Owners may need to hire a professional trainer or organization that is willing to train owner's dog. Owner-trainers usually start training their dog when they are still a puppy until they reach the right age to be evaluated. The only downfall is that some find it difficult to deal with emotional conflict in rare cases when a dog failed the evaluations and decide whether to re-home the dog and start again or to just keep it as a pet.

On the other hand, professionally trained puppies were raised accordingly via very careful research and also had to undergo a regime that has a lot of strict guidelines and mostly given a success rate of 85 % and above after evaluation which is way higher than owner-trained puppies/dogs. Why is that so? This is because program trainers are expert in manipulating the genetics or say early stimulation of puppies until the event that they become service dogs.

If you are planning to get a service dog, you don't have to worry about bringing them to where you are. In fact, as soon as your dog got registered, they are allowed to go anywhere you go. You can feel free to bring them to any restaurants, buses, schools, ride taxis, take airplanes, stores, movie theatres, sporting events, watch concerts with you, visit doctor's offices, and any other public place. Legally speaking, it is a requirement of federal and state laws to always have your dog with you. What makes it more exciting is that they do not have to wear any identifying gear, no need to wear their vest as well. So everything could actually be owner's discretion. The truth is that a lot of service dog owners choose to dress their dogs in vest and identifying apparels to avoid questions and confrontations in public. So by doing so, it makes their life easier and at the same time it helps keep the dogs away from distractions as much as possible. If you bring your dog elsewhere, keep in mind that it is illegal to ask for specific identification from service dogs partners. If somebody did, tell them it is not allowed by law. You can bring ID cards with you, but take note that it should be done voluntarily, again, this is NOT required and should never be expected.

So far, the most popular assistance animals are dogs. This is because dogs are man's best friend - wonderful pet, provides companionship, and protects their owner. Dogs are sociable by nature and as a matter of fact, they work closely with people such as law enforcement, search and rescue and even farming. These characteristics made it possible for dogs to be service animals.

What if you don't have a dog? In some cases, other animals can be trained to perform task to help disabled individuals to live independent life. The truth is that any trainable animal could be your service animal. The most common of course are dogs, cats, primates and birds but in reality any animal that is capable for training to perform the tasks required to benefit a qualified disabled owner/individual could be considered to be a service animal. So that means you can also have others like capuchin monkeys, which can be trained to do other task like operating knobs and switches, grasping fallen items and turn pages of your books. You can also consider training miniature horses, it's proven that after serious trainings, they can actually guide the blind; they can pull wheelchairs and even assist individuals with Parkinson's disease. As a matter of fact even before the evolution of service dogs, animal interactions already plays a big role in helping human with health issues. One example is horseback riding which is actually mentioned throughout history as cure for some sickness including gout, neurological disorders and depression. Up until now, animals still assist us in terms of physical and mental illness and still assist people with disabilities. Any species or breed of service animal may used by a disabled handler.

Keep in mind that service animals are classified based on task they can do but have you ever wonder about the difference between service animal, dog guide and therapy animal, companion/emotional support animals and pets? This question oftentimes brings confusions to people who need help.

To make it all clear, the term Service Animal is the federal legal term for animals that are individually trained to do task for individual with disability. It may not always be a dog, does not always wear equipments identifying them as service animals, is not a pet, is protected by law, guide the blind, alert people who are deaf, carry or pick up items, close and open doors, assist disabled who have limited use of arms and legs, pull wheelchairs, assist individual with seizures and assist people who have problems in balancing.

A guide dog / animal is trained to provide guidance for sight impaired individual. Guide dogs had their trainings from certified licensed school for guide dogs. The most important thing is that guide dogs are protected under state and federal law.

Some people referred to their animals as therapy animal however it is not legally defined under federal law. Most therapy animals can be seen in nursing homes, orphanages, hospitals, etc. while others reside in doctor/dentist offices, rehabilitations establishments, and even in private homes of people or individual that benefits a lot for keeping animals because of the therapeutic companionship it has to offer. For some states, it is defined as personal pet for therapist, physicians so in short, a therapy animal is not a service animal. The hint is that when an animal is trained to provide continuous assistance (help, aid, support) to a qualified disabled individual because of his / her disability, then that means that the animal is considered as service animal rather than a therapy animal.

In rare cases, people term their animals as companion or emotional support animals. It's often given the role of specifically assisting people with either emotional or mental disabilities and need constant companionship because they are unable to function independently. This type of animals are almost same as pets because it's not legally defined but accepted as another form of pet and protected under Fair Housing Act.

The most common confusion is how the pet is different from any other service animals. The answer is just simple. A pet is not a service animal because it's not trained to provide specific service or task to person with disability and it's not protected under laws that give equal access to disable individuals.

With all the types of service animals, people sometimes failed to identify if an animal is service animal or not. To tell you honestly, it's easier to tell which is not. How? You can tell by looking. It's important that you don't make the person with disability feel uncomfortable when you ask. However, if you are still confused if the animal meets the criteria to be called as service animal, you can ask question in a discreet way. You can ask if animal is required due to disability or maybe ask for task and services the animal was trained for. Remember that it's a big NO to ask the person about their disability. Never ever ask a guest for proof. In short, you cannot discriminate people with service animals because of their disability. You should not ask people with disabilities and their service animals to stay away or required to sit in certain locations, but instead, the individual with the animal may choose freely to sit in a location where the animal will be less distracted. Besides, with all the proper trainings given to both the owner and the animal, you may expect the service animal to behave the right way and be under control of their owner.

If you don't have disability, it's recommended for you to learn how to act the right way in cases that you see service animals in public. Keep in mind that you should never distract the dog on shift by calling, clapping, and even by offering food. You should never attempt to touch the service dog. You can speak to the dog owner but not to the service dog. Since we're avoiding distractions here, you should not get offended if your request to pet the assistance dog is not granted. You need to understand that if the owner lets the dog to greet you, you are distracting the dog's ability to stay alert on their owners. Don't be rude by telling the person that dogs are not allowed but instead ask if the dog is assistant dog. If the answer is yes, then stop questioning. If the person doesn't look disabled, never assume that the dog is not a service dog. Remember, it's wiser to observe first. If the dog pays too much attention and conduct close interaction to owner, chances are you are looking to a service dog.

On the other hand, if you are a service dog owner, you still need to pay attention on your dog's behavior and standards in public. People without disability will expect appropriate behavior from your dog. When going out, make sure your service animal is clean and doesn't have bad odor and most importantly, the service dog should not defecate or urinate in inappropriate places. Registered service animals should never make unsolicited contact with members of the general public and the animal's conduct should not disrupt the normal businesses no matter what. As an owner, it's a must for you to have the animal trained not to show aggression towards other people and animals at all. Service dog should obey all the commands of their owner. It is always important to have the animal work quietly and calmly as possible especially when wearing gears, and as a service animal, they are specifically trained to work out in public. Lastly, assistant animals should stay at least within 24 inches of its owner unless required to work in a greater distance. People with allergies are not protected under the law unless the allergy is really disabling. The person with a disability who is using a service animal is protected. One good place on the internet to get a proper registration for the dog and or animal is at http://www.registeredservicedogs.com.

by Jasmin Espinoza

Registered Service Dogs / Staff

Jasmin Espinoza is a stay home mom who works homebased. She was born in the Philippines Nov 3, 1984. She took Bachelor Of Science in Information Technology back in college and works for several IT companies. Her last employment was with IBM Business Services. As a single mom, she decided to work homebased and at the same time working as administrative staff at Registered Service Dogs online at http://www.registeredservicedogs.com. She's been in Business Process Outsourcing industry for 6 years now.

Your Dog, How to Feed Him Well and Keep Him Healthy

Food for Your Dog

The correct diet is critical to your dog's long term health. Dog food quality can be judged according to the balance between protein, carbohydrates, fat and fiber.

Protein: Dogs require a higher proportion of protein than humans. Cheaper dog foods may contain too little or poor quality protein (poor quality protein has the wrong balance of amino acids and/or it is less digestible). Unless your dog has kidney problems extra protein will cause no harm; it will be used as energy food or excreted. The best quality protein comes from eggs, then Fish meal, milk, beef, chicken and lamb. Of the other common sources, Soya is better, then meat & bone meal/by-products, wheat, corn.

Carbohydrates: Unlike cats, dogs can digest a high proportion of carbohydrates (up to 70%) to meet their energy needs, although their wild ancestors would have got most of their energy from protein, with no more than 30% carbohydrates. Dry dog food needs starchy carbohydrates to form the biscuits or kibbles, but too much carbohydrate can make a dog overweight or sometimes cause digestion problems.

Fat: Any animal (or human) needs a certain amount of fat in the diet. Dogs require essential fatty acids present only in fat. For a puppy or lactating dog there should be 8-17% fat in the diet. For an adult dog around 5-15%. Too little fat can cause a dull coat and dry skin. Too much can make a dog overweight.

Fiber: A certain amount of fiber in a dog's diet is beneficial to his digestion, even though it does not produce any energy. It stabilises the rate of digestion of food and will help in treating diarrhea, constipation, weight management and diabetes. Most commercial diets contain plenty of fiber for a healthy dog, but if your dog has on of the problems mentioned above additional fiber may be beneficial.

Growing puppies, Pregnant or nursing dogs, and very active working dogs and sled dogs need more food for their weight than other dogs. Good quality food designed specifically for them is necessary.

Vegetarian Diet: One glance at a dog's teeth will show that it is a meat eater, not a plant eater. It is very difficult to create a balanced diet for a dog without meat, and if you could, would he actually eat it? If you feel strongly about this get a vegetarian pet such as a rabbit or bird instead.

Beware of giving your dog human food. Meat scraps etc are OK in small quantities as treats (they are generally too fatty to be 100% healthy for him), but many everyday foods including chocolate, grapes, avocado, mushrooms and macadamia nuts contain substances which are dangerous to dogs. Many foods contain too much salt or sugar for dogs. So there are two good reasons never to feed your dog titbits during your meal; he will start to become a pest a mealtimes and it's not healthy for him.

Rhubarb leaves are toxic to dogs as well as to people, due to the oxalates they contain.

Grooming

The techniques and equipment you need depend entirely on the type of coat your dog has. If he has smooth fur that does not get tangled or matted, all you need to do is brush him occasionally to remove loose hair, and even this is really just for your benefit; the loose hair you remove is that much less for him to shed onto your floor.

Curly haired dogs such as poodles hardly shed at all but need a lot of grooming. It is essential to comb out tangles and knots at least once a week, get a full grooming every 4 to 6 weeks, and to have them trimmed.

Use shampoo designed for dogs if you need to wash him. NEVER use shampoos, insect sprays etc containing citrus oil extracts for dogs. These are dangerous and can even cause death. The toxic chemicals can be absorbed through the skin and are even more dangerous if swallowed.

Equipment

Usually you will want to have:

Bowls for food and water. Get the appropriate size for your dog. Automatic water bowls that refill automatically as the water is used are available.
Collar and lead. Make sure the collar is the right size. You should be able to put two fingers between the collar and his neck. A growing puppy will need a larger collar from time to time. For most dogs a standard buckle collar (leather or nylon) is fine. To train a dog to walk on a lead you may use a 'halti' type collar, a martingale collar or a choke chain. If you aren't familiar with these get advice from a dog trainer. A few breeds such as greyhounds have rather delicate necks that could be injured by a standard collar. If so get a special collar appropriate to the dog.
Dog tag attached to the collar with your address, phone number etc.
Dog bed. Get the right size for your dog. He needs some room to stretch out and change position but there is no point in a huge bed for a small dog. They generally prefer a bed that feels 'cosy' to them, that is not excessively large.

Other items you may need depending on the breed etc:

A harness for the dog (very useful if your dog tends to break or slip from his collar)
Dog coat. Many small dogs and some larger ones such as greyhounds need a coat in wet or very cold weather. 'Fashion' coats, Halloween costumes etc are designed to please the owner, not the dog. Conventional dog coats are easier to put on, keep clean and are harder wearing.
Dog boots (if you have to take your dog out in very cold weather)
Brushes, comb, dog shampoo, towels etc for grooming the dog. The type of coat determines what equipment you need.
Clicker or whistle for dog training
Dog treats for rewards when training.
Dog balls, other dog toys. Some dogs will destroy all but the toughest toys; others love soft or squeaky toys. Indestructible hard rubber dog balls are excellent but they don't float! You can get hard rubber balls that fit into ball throwers designed for tennis balls; great for hyper-energetic dogs.
Dog crate. If you get an adult-sized crate for your puppy you should block off part of the crate with plywood or similar until the dog grows into it.
Dog carrier. Only for dogs light enough to lift with one hand. With these you can take small dogs on planes (check the airline's requirements first)

Health

Puppies should be inoculated for the first time when they are about 8-12 weeks old. They should not be allowed to play with other dogs or taken outside for a walk until they have had their first and second vaccination.

Vaccination against Rabies, Canine Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Canine Parvo Virus and Kennel Cough may be required depending on your area. Vaccinations should be kept up to date and are essential if you put your dog into a boarding kennel.

Check your dog's teeth regularly for tartar build up, gum condition, objects stuck between his teeth etc. Start doing this when they are puppies so they get used to it and don't object when they are older.

Some breeds are more prone to ear infections and if so you should clean your dog's ears once a week to remove excess wax.

Protect your dog from fleas and ticks with a flea collar or a liquid product such as Frontline. Ticks are more difficult to kill than fleas and require that you renew the dog's protection regularly.

Dogs need to be treated for worms occasionally. Dogs may have worms and be able to infect others but show no obvious signs of being infected.

Keep an eye on your pet for signs of illness or injury. Check regularly for cuts, skin damage, injuries etc. If in doubt take him to the vet. If your dog feels ill he can't tell you but you will see changes in his behaviour. With experience and common sense you can usually tell whether a dog is ill or just upset or anxious about something.

As you play with or pet your dog you can check his condition - does he limp or get tired too quickly? Is he too fat or too thin? Is his coat in good condition?

If in doubt take him to the vet.

Pet insurance will protect you from large vet bills that you can't afford, but do check exactly what the policy covers. Try to find out whether, if your dog develops a chronic condition such as diabetes or arthritis, they will renew the cover the next year and continue to cover that illness. Many policies won't cover existing illnesses so if your dog has developed a chronic illness you may be unable to switch insurers as the new insurer wouldn't cover this illness.

I trust you enjoyed reading this article and found it useful. For more information on this and many other dog-related topics go to:

http://www.tinydogstoday.com

or

http://www.cmaccess.net

How to Train a Territorial Dog

Like most creatures, including humans, dogs are territorial by nature. This is based on the fact that possession of those resources deemed valuable (including territory) bodes well for survival. Some dogs are genetically predisposed to have a greater propensity for aggressive tendencies. This is due in great part to selective breeding for dogs who are best suited to guard us and our property and is part of why dogs have been so revered as companions and assistants to people over thousands of years. Barking to warn us of potential intruders is often an expression of the dogs' territorial instinct and is appreciated by many pet parents.

However, in some cases a tendency to guard people, places, or things becomes detrimental to the canine-human relationship. Some dogs can become aggressive towards their own family in an effort to guard things they consider their possessions. This can include food, toys, people, and territory. Dogs who display this sort of behavior can, at the least, become worrisome to live with, and at worst can cause serious damage to people and other animals. Living with a dog with aggression issues can be stressful and potentially dangerous.

Other underlying causes of territorial aggression may include lack of adequate, early socialization or gentling and handling exercises, sexual maturation, and underlying medical issues. Since there is most often a genetic predisposition to this issue, the goal is not to cure the problem as much as to control and manage it in an effort to decrease the frequency and severity of possible aggressive displays.

Nobody wants to have their dog labeled as 'aggressive' and few people ever suspect that the young pup they bring into their home might someday behave aggressively. Surprisingly for some people, dogs who display a more reserved or fearful temperament as a pup may reach adolescence or adulthood and develop aggression issues. These types of dogs often exhibit aggressive displays that seem less confident and more anxious, but it is aggression and potentially dangerous all the same. As a dog matures, subtle indicators of a potential problem are often overlooked until they are amplified by experience (or lack thereof in regards to anti-aggression exercises all pups should take part of as soon as possible).

Additionally, some aggressive behaviors are inadvertently reinforced. For example, if a young pup grabs a toy and runs off under a table or behind a couch with it, family members might giggle at what is deemed part of typical puppy antics but which may progress into a dog who responds aggressively when people attempt to take toys or food away. Likewise, a young dog might growl when a person attempts to move the dog from one location to another or a young dog who barks at people (possibly out of fear or lack of socialization) is often rewarded when people move away from the dog. In these, and many other scenarios, the dog is sending clear signals that it needs the family's assistance to better cope with daily life with people, including learning not to guard objects and territories, and to calmly accept the approach of a wide variety of people.

Early preventative intervention, such as attending a puppy class where social skills and friendly manners should be a top priority, is ideal. However, once an aggression issue has developed it is vital that an honest assessment of the severity of the problem be made. To do so requires an awareness of some of the signs of aggression. Many people assume aggression is simply when a dog bites. But, a dog bite is usually prefaced by early warning signals that went unrecognized or were punished so as to extinguish the dog's ability to warn with a growl or bark rather than biting. The subtlety or severity of aggressive displays or behaviors in response to a real or perceived threat can vary on a wide scale and include some or all of the following:

• Freezing when approached

• Turning away

• Lifting of the lips

• Growling

• Barking

• Snapping

• Lunging

• Biting

To follow are some suggestions for things to consider when dealing with aggression. In most cases, it is advisable to retain the assistance of an experienced professional who takes a humane, motivation-based approach who can assist you with implementing a behavior modification plan.

• Identify triggers for aggression.

• Management and supervision to prevent triggering aggressive displays.

• Obedience training to provide a foundation for a cooperative relationship.

• Adhering to a Nothing in Life for Free program to help your dog better understand the basis of the canine-human relationship (i.e. you control all of the good stuff in life).

• Systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning to aggression triggers.

• Plenty of physical and mental exercise to prevent boredom and related stress.

• A nutritionally balanced diet designed specifically for dogs with aggression issues (talk to your vet about the potential use of a lower protein food).

• Discuss any potential underlying medical issues with your veterinarian.

When dealing with aggression issues, of primary concern is maintaining the safety of all who come in contact with the dog. This is best achieved by pinpointing to the best of your ability what specific situations elicit the dog's aggressive response. This way you can avoid these possible triggers, and by doing so you can help prevent injury to yourself or others as well as the opportunity for your dog to practice the aggressive behavior and have it develop into an even more deeply rooted habit.

When you have visitors, be sure your dog is kept behind a secure door or in a crate once taught to rest calmly and quietly in this space by starting with brief periods of time. Be sure your dog also occasionally spends some time in this area when there are no visitors in your home. As a general rule, dogs who have aggression issues should never be in a situation where they are unsupervised or off leash and exposed to other dogs or people to whom they could cause injury. Depending on what triggers the aggression, it is usually best to keep your dog on a leash at all times when you are there to supervise so that you can use the leash to maintain control by calmly and gently moving your dog away from any potential triggers.

Perhaps most importantly, it is vital to avoid the use of any punishment based approaches as they are likely to further escalate the issue. If a dog has already shown they are willing to react to you or another person with aggression, then in all likelihood they are even more likely to do so when they feel threatened by being yelled at, yanked, grabbed, or otherwise physically or verbally punished. Furthermore, punishing the dog for low level aggressive displays such as growling is unlikely to prevent future, more advanced and dangerous aggression. In fact, it is likely to make matters worse by teaching the dog not to offer warning signals. Unfortunately, this often results in people saying the dog "bit without warning."

In addition to management, you should make a plan to teach your dog specific behaviors which can be used as a way to get your dog to earn what he wants (food, toys, attention, and life rewards) and as a way to redirect or focus your dog to something positive as an alternative and a distraction from the aggression trigger.

All dogs, but most especially those with aggression issues, will benefit from a 'learn to earn' program, also sometimes referred to as a Nothing in Life for Free (NILFF) approach. By getting and maintaining control of all of those things your dog wants you have the safest and most effective chance of getting control of your dog and ultimately helping your dog to become a cooperative canine. Resources to control are:

• Food (the dog's normal meals as well as special treats)

• Toys

• Attention (including eye contact, petting, and talking to your dog)

• Life Rewards (these are all those activities your dog might enjoy such as going for a walk, being invited on the couch, being allowed through a doorway, etc.)

Most people are familiar with the use of a treat to teach a dog to sit or lie down. But, every bit of food you give your dog, especially normal meals, should be put to good use. Rather than feeding your dog from a food bowl, set aside a few minutes at each meal time to hand feed your dog a part of his food in exchange for responding to a request to sit, lie down, look at you, come when called or hand target.

This is comparable to a supervisor at work expecting you to perform certain tasks prior to getting a paycheck. Helping your dog understand what he needs to do to get what he wants and that you control all of the good stuff will create a basis for decreasing aggression issues. At those times when you can't hand feed your dog, ask him to respond to a request or two prior to putting his food down for him. Additionally, if the dog has behaved aggressively when fed in the kitchen, try feeding in a new area where aggression has not been previously displayed.

Start teaching your dog to respond willingly and reliably to requests in an environment that is as calm as possible to prevent potential distraction during this crucial period of setting a foundation for future learning. Keep training sessions to 3-5 minutes in length and plan them for times when you suspect your dog will be in the best possible state of mind to learn. For most dogs this is just prior to meal time. Repetition is the key to building learning muscles just as it is to building physical muscles. So, try to plan for many brief sessions throughout the day so your dog has many opportunities to practice and earn rewards for behaviors you like.

This is sure to create a dog who is motivated to respond reliably to your requests and is therefore going to be more manageable even when eventually exposed to those things which have previously triggered aggression. These behaviors are incompatible with aggression which means when your dog is doing them he will not be growling, barking, lunging or biting. As you start to gradually work with your dog around low levels of the triggers you identified, you will be essentially taking up more room in your dog's thought process with these things and leaving less room for your dog's previous thought pattern which resulted in aggression.

The key to desensitization is to expose the dog to specific stimuli that trigger the response you are trying to change (i.e. an aggressive response) at a level that is as low as possible so as to stay well below the threshold where the response is activated. In the case of a dog who is territorial of a specific area of the home, working on having the dog respond to requests to sit and other obedience behaviors is best started as far away from that area as possible. As you gradually move closer over the course of many days or weeks, it is vital to carefully observe your dog's behavior.

If their typical response rate decreases or their body language indicates stress, fear or aggression then you are moving too quickly and need to lower your standards by moving away, asking for less, or taking a time out from the training session. In the case of territorial aggression in the home, it is advisable to include as part of management preventing your dog from having access to those areas unless you have granted permission and are confident the dog will respond to you when asked to come, sit, lie down, hand target, etc.

Like all behavior issues, aggression problems can be a serious obstacle to the cooperative nature of the ideal canine-human bond. Modifying aggression issues requires a calm, patient, consistent, non-confrontational approach. Aggression problems usually require a lifetime of careful management, but using the suggestions above and working with a skilled professional should help

Andrea is a Certified Pet Dog Trainer through the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers and a Certified Pet Partners Team evaluator for the Delta Society and the AKC's Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test. She is the Director of Andrea Arden Dog Training in New York, and was named the best dog trainer in New York by New York, W, Time Out, Quest and the Daily News. Her website is located at http://www.andreaarden.com and she can be reached at 212-414-9597. You can follow her on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/andreaardendogtraining.

10 Resolutions For 2011 For You And Your Dog

Does your dog make new year's resolutions?

Probably not, but that doesn't mean you can't make them for both of you.

The tradition of New Year's resolutions goes back to ancient Rome, when Julius Caesar proclaimed January 1st the beginning of the new year. Romans dedicated this day to Janus, (hence the name "January") the god with two faces - one looking forward and one looking back.

January 1st became the day to look to the past to learn from it, and anticipate the future. This symbolic meaning has survived centuries.

No matter how it got its start, the new year is a great time to resolve to make our lives -- and our dogs lives --healthier, more productive and happier.

So what do you resolve for 2011?

Here's my list of resolutions for my dog and me.

1. More walks

You'll both be happier and healthier with more frequent walks. Dogs thrive on routine, so a standard time every day for a good walk is a great way to train your dog.

Dog expert Cesar Millan says that walking your dog is one of the best ways to bond with him, and to teach him that you are the master or alpha dog of the pack. It's also the best way to control unwanted behavior, because a well-exercised dog is a well-behaved dog. I've found this consistently; my dogs are calm, quiet and more fun when they've had good walks.

How many walks and how long? You'll both benefit from two 20 minute walks a day, morning and evening, or a longer 45 minute walk once a day.

2. Get dog's nails cut every 6 weeks without fail

Unless your dogs are walking on concrete or other hard surfaces, they'll need their nails cut every 6 weeks or so. Their high protein diet keeps nails and the quick, or flesh under the nails, growing quite fast.

If nails aren't cut often enough, both the quick and the nail gets too long and cannot be cut back to the right length all at once, since the quick will bleed profusely.

Since I hate cutting dogs' nails (that bleeding quick!) I tend to avoid it, and so admitted long ago it's easier and less stress for me, to take the dogs out to a local groomer I trust and get it done (PetSmart is great, no appointment needed and quite reasonable).

3. Learn more about vaccines so I can make a considered opinion.

How come people don't need an annual 'booster' shot against disease, but dogs and cats do? When you think about vaccines, remember that:

a vaccine is a diluted form of the disease it's "fighting"
this small amount is supposed to help your dog develop antibodies to fight the disease
then if he ever gets the disease, it's these antibodies that help him
it's a major assault on the animal's immune system to give annual vaccinations

Vaccinations, driven by large pharmaceutical profit plans, can cause more problems than they're meant to avert. Some are not necessary at all and others are given too often according to critics of the system. For example, the scientific reality is that a single rabies vaccine, like other viral vaccines, is good for many years and probably for life.

It's worthwhile to read up more on the two points of view about vaccinations and come to your own decision.

4. Secure my dog while we're in the car.

It's not a pretty picture.

If a window breaks or a door flies open in a car accident, your terrified dog will escape and run into traffic, only to be run over or be the cause another accident.

Even in a minor collision, an unrestrained dog can be thrown into the dashboard or the windshield. Like any other projectile, the dog will fly forward with tremendous speed and force and go through the windshield and/or seriously injure you and your passengers. (In an auto accident a 60 pound dog in a car traveling 30 mph will hit an object ten inches in front of him at 1,200 pounds per square inch.)

And a small dog held on your lap in the front seat will almost certainly be killed by the air bag deployment. Sorry to be graphic but it's something to think about.

So what's the best way to restrain your dog while you're driving?

The safest place for dogs is in the back seat - properly restrained. There are 4 main ways to safely restrain your dog:

keep the dog in a crate, that itself is safely attached to the seat belt system
a proper-fitting harness that holds the dog in via a strap attached to the seat belt mechanism
one of the new booster seats for small dogs, with built-in seat belt or harness restraint
use a barrier for the back of SUVs - which do hold the dog away from the passenger area but don't do much to protect the dog, who could still get out the back door in the case of an accident

There are also restraints available if you carry your dog in the bed of a pick up truck (illegal in many areas); but this restraint will secure the dog safely. Your dog will likely object quite a bit at first, but in this case, safety comes first.

(And the dog's head out the window, although a romantic image is dangerous too - think of flying stones, insects and cigarettes thrown from the vehicle ahead of you to name just a few hazards).

5. Explore holistic veterinarian care.

Holistic or alternative health care is becoming popular for ourselves and our animals. Basically there are two kinds of veterinary services:

allopathic - based on drugs, medications and chemicals and
holistic - which focuses on the whole dog and emphasizing building a strong immune system that resists disease.

Holistic is wellness from within. That wellness is built with medicinal herbs, nutritional supplements, common sense supportive care and more. Holistic vets will use drugs, medications and chemicals but only when no other route will work.

Since holistic veterinarians are also allopathic vets - because all practicing veterinarians must graduate from a traditional university - the holistic route gives you more choice in your animal's care and are less reliant on giant pharmaceutical pressure. You can read more at the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association website, ahvma.org.

6. Enjoy your dog; attend a local fun-meet or all-breed dog show.

You can find local fun-meets for your dog through several sources:

rescue associations, humane society and animal shelters - who often stage these as fundraisers
breed clubs if you have a purebred dog
check the national kennel clubs - Canadian Kennel Club or American Kennel Club
watch for notices on bulletin boards at your veterinarian's, local pet food stores and groomer's
look for notices in your local newspaper

Not only are these fun meets a great way for your dog to be even more socialized, they're a lot of fun and you get to talk to other dog lovers like you.

7. Teach my dog a good trick.

Mental stimulation is important for your dog and what better way to get his mind working than by learning a fun new trick. You can search online for "easy dog tricks" (don't forget YouTube), pick up a training book or buy an online course on dog tricks.

8. Fewer treats = better weight.

Just like us humans, dogs are suffering from a major outbreak in obesity.

Did you know that the popular treat, "Bonz" for small and medium dogs is 70 calories each! Milk Bone biscuits for small breeds are 40 calories each. As a very general rule of thumb, a very small dog (5 lbs.) requires only 400 calories a day, so these treats can really add up.

9. Bone up on discipline training.

If you still think a whack on the head with a rolled up newspaper is good doggie discipline, you need to read up about more up-to-date techniques.

Dog training today is based on positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement... positive means something is added to the dog's routine to change his behavior; and negative, something is taken away from the dog's environment to change his behaviour.

An example of positive reinforcement: your dog does something you tell him, like "sit." He immediately gets praise and/or a treat from you. The reward needs to be immediate and you need to be consistent until the behavior is really embedded. Even then, there's nothing wrong with a bit of verbal encouragement.
An example of negative reinforcement: your dog is barking furiously. You say "no" in a firm voice, but the barking continues. Remove the dog from your presence; I do this by putting my dog in the garage for a "time out." Since my presence and attention is what the dog was striving for with all the racket, this works very well in curtailing the bad behavior. Negative reinforcement is never hitting the dog, coercing or shaming him. Those old school tactics simply turn your dog against you and break his spirit. Not to mention they're inhumane and callous.

10. Stop and smell the roses... and the trees.. and the bushes...

The thing I love most about dogs is how they live in the minute. No matter what a dog is doing, he's giving it 100%, and it's right here, right now, in the moment. Dogs also tend to live with unbounded enthusiasm and joy... qualities we could all use more of too.

Deb Gray is a self-taught expert and confessed lover of Yorkshire Terriers, Maltese and their crossbreed, Morkies. Read about making these dogs your perfect animal companions at Deb's site Yorkie Info. And, click to read more details about Resolutions for you and your dog.

Educating People About Dogs

What shelter dogs need the most has absolutely nothing to do with brick and mortar. It doesn't matter to dogs what colour the paint on the wall is, what modern design a shelter has, or that you can even feed and water them without the need to open the gates. It's not the fabric of the building that makes a difference, it's the people inside the building, the quality of the staff, and it's the caregivers that will make that difference.

Why are we building more shelters when we were told that the spay/neuter campaigns were supposed to take care of the overpopulation? We should be closing doors, not opening new ones to even bigger shelters... When technology takes over the details of feeding a dog, the dog loses the human touch, the hand that would have touched him and the face that would have smiled at him. A better solution would be to educate people in our communities about the necessity of training their dogs to live in a world of people and educate them about the natural behaviours of dog's and their body language.

Thousands of adoptable dogs are destroyed every year in animal shelters across Canada. To comprehend the magnitude of this needless waste of life, think about a pet you are fond of and all the animal's qualities. Then think of the thousands of pets just like the one you are fond of who wants nothing more than to be part of a loving family, but are killed every day in Canada.

Why are we breeding more and more dogs when most times we can pick exactly what we want from shelters, the vast majority of dogs destroyed are not inferior to those who come from breeders or pet stores? Shelter dogs can make much better companions than those bred for pet sales. Police dogs, service dogs, sniffer dogs come from shelters.

And even if you're looking for a pure bred dog, that's no longer a problem either, the days of only locating mutts are gone; twenty years ago you wouldn't see a Boxer, Shih Tzu, Corgi, or a Cocker Spaniel in a shelter. It's quite a different story now; you will find Pugs, Papillions, Bichons, Huskies, German Shepherds, Chiwawas, Labradors, Goldens and Border Collies.

There's a dog hanging on to go home with you, so why are we not adopting our companion dogs? Don't buy your dog from a breeder, don't buy from a pet shop, don't buy on line, don't buy from a puppy mill, buy your dog from your local shelters or breed rescues, you may find that once in a lifetime dog.

And if there aren't enough homes for dogs in shelters and their obviously aren't, we should be taking the best ones and not take in the worst ones, we should make the owner responsible or better still we should make the breeder responsible.

We ought to be training people to take responsibility for their pets when they behave inappropriately in society and in their homes instead of dumping them for someone else to repair. Perhaps pre-testing them before they come in rather than after they are dropped off. When the owner arrives and says I don't want it anymore, the person who is doing the interview could ask the owner to groom it for about ten minutes. If the dog won't tolerate the owner touching it how are they going to find a new home? They could do a lot of work with him in the shelter, but not all shelters are equipped with professional groomers that will teach the dog to accept being touched and handled.

Then mix up a bowl of food and ask the owner to stroke it while it's eating, you won't need an assess-a-hand now you have the real one and it's the owners. And if the owner knows she can't touch the dog while it's eating, they will decline to do the test in front of you anyway. That prevents the dog coming in and perhaps going out with problems that the staff might not know about, and it also avoids all these extensive hard to do test in shelters that take up a lot of time and finances. Would this not tell us a lot more about the dog that's being dropped off?

Only accepting surrenders that are adoptable would make it less challenging to find them homes and get them out of this highly competitive, high stress environment quicker while saving time and money that could be better put to use somewhere else. Then you could ask the owner to walk by other dogs and if their dog is lunging out at other dogs, don't take it in. In other words the shelter is not taking responsibility for a dog that's already a problem. Shelters would then be in the business for finding homes for nice dogs.

Then if the dog failed the test, I'm talking about an owner drop off, they would need to go through some sort of training and at the owners cost before being accepted for adoption. Thus giving the responsibility back to owners. What are we teaching the next generation of companion dog owners? Do we want them to think that our companion dogs are just something we can dispose of for whatever reason? What about our children and grandchildren, will they follow our ways or can we begin to make a change by doing things differently and setting new goals for unwanted animals?

We can begin with how to improve the way we train companion dogs. It's no longer in demand to train our dogs to do precision heel-work, to sit-stay with its owner of sight or to come to front on a recall and then finish to heel. This is for competitive obedience; it has no purpose what so ever for a companion dog owner. Something as simple as teaching people how to teach their dog to walk nicely on a loose leash; could save dog lives.

Teaching owners to have their dog sit when requested, or to be able to send their dog to its mat or bed, or to teach dogs self-control. And how about how to use emotions to give dogs feed -back. Emotional language is universal just as is body language and no one uses it anymore, you don't need words to be understood by dogs worldwide.

And here's the big one. Prior to this past decade, the idea of socializing a puppy involved familiarizing our puppy to a variety of different people under different circumstances and environments. We did this because domestic dogs live in a people world. During this past decade or so, there has been a shift in emphasis from socializing dogs to people to socializing dogs to other dogs.

I think there may be several reasons that motivated this shift. Undeniably guilt plays a role here. Then our lifestyles have become more and more complex as well which means our dogs mean far more to us. What better way to compensate our dogs than allowing our dogs the opportunity to romp with their own kind and to become one with their inner dog?

Though that sounds ideal, it overlooks several realities that I find troubling. First, humans have spent more than 10,000 years, 40,000 maybe even 100.000 years domesticating dogs so dogs would prefer humans over canine companionship. Do we really want to encourage dogs to play by canine rather than human rules while at the same time we demand more of them in their intimate interactions with us?

And finally, don't forget to ask why you think your dog needs this kind of activity. If your dog is well-behaved and healthy, chances are that he or she is perfectly content to spend time with you rather than other dogs. Is that not why we call them companion dogs, to be people companions rather than another dog's companion.

I love the fact that my dogs would rather play with me than any other dog they meet. They are being normal balanced dogs by choosing me. I don't want to be treated like just another canine. I want to be all I can for my dogs in return I also want them to be all they can for me, after all I control everything in their world, I want them to want to be with me because I'm a heck of a lot more fun than any dog they would ever meet. Dogs that would rather interact with other dogs than people are not the normal but rather the exception.

Does that mean that you can't engage in dog activities because you enjoy the companionship of other people who like dogs, too? Not at all. However, just be sure to select those activities that will meet your dog's needs and not just yours. So if owners took responsibility for the education of their dog we would have better behaved dogs that would remain in their homes, with their families and alive by looking at changes we could make by:

1. Making training and education a requirement in order to own a dog

2. Training effective and useful real life exercises

3. Accepting only good dogs from drop-offs

4. Having owners perform behavior testing, as this will tell us much more about that dog

5. Placing the emphasis on socializing dogs to people, rather than dog to dog

6. Refusing bad dogs as surrenders until some training has been done by its owner at the owners cost

If we taught owners in dog training classes' useful everyday exercises that they could actually use in their homes where they spend ninety percent of their time with their dog they may not get as frustrated, they could send the dog to his mat to chill out.

If we taught owners how to achieve loose leash walking, they could enjoy walking their dogs without the stress of jerking and yelling at them, which creates owners that end up disliking their dog. We could make such wide-spread changes while diminishing a disease known as "Disposable Pet Syndrome".

By the way, nothing I'm saying is necessarily right, but also nothing I'm saying is necessarily wrong.

Dianne is a Certified Animal Behavior Therapist as well as Master Trainers in her field. Specializing in evaluating and treating behavioral problems in domestic dogs. Dianne gives advice to dog owners on a daily basis and writes articles for the Ottawa Dog Blog and Animality Pet Magazine the Orleans Star as well as La Nouvelle. She has appeared numerous times on television providing advice to dog owners.

Dianne has been featured in several magazines with her dogs including Dog-Sport magazine and profiled for Progressive Choices - Ontario Women in business, being described as having a blend of talent, skill and passion. Dianne shares her life with her husband Richard and their three dogs and two parrots.

Aggressive Bad Dog Behavior - Advice on How to Control This

Dogs are not born aggressive; this is usually brought on by outside influences. Aggressive or bad dog behavior is learnt and rarely an embedded trait, however, there are sometimes exceptions to the rule.

Canine dominance over you, attack by another dog or other triggers during the dogs formative first few weeks could progress to aggressive dog behavior. Ultimately, getting a handle on the root cause is the first step in resolving bad dog aggression. It is your responsibility as the Alpha pack leader to fix this problem in order to maintain control both at home and when out and about with your furry friend. Bad dog behavior may have both, dire financial and serious emotional consequences.

Aggressive Bad Dog Behavior - Puppy

First 6 weeks:Puppies should be socialized with other dogs at an early age, at least within the first 6 weeks of life. Failure to do so can lead to the onset of aggressive dog behavior and possibly the biting of people later on. At 14 weeks the pup should have good social skills; sometimes it could take longer to properly socialize your pup.

At 8 weeks:For starters some basic rules of thumb when it comes to raising a well balanced pup. Do not allow the puppy to be separated from it's litter before 8 weeks old. Remember this cuddly puppy needs a loving and gentle touch when taken from his puppy litter, so bear this in mind during weeks 8 to 10. By no means should you or any family/pack member be loud or physically abusive towards the new young puppy.

Pup at 14 weeks:Common sense tells us that bad treatment given, results in bad dog behavior returned by your young pup. Small puppy in a new and strange place, give the little guy a break. By 14 weeks of age your new puppy should be well adjusted and comfortable with his position in his new pack. This means he interacts well with people and other dogs. The down side is that your pup could display aggressive behavior going forward. Basically your good efforts with the young pup will gain you a lifelong friend and companion.

Aggressive Bad Dog Behavior - Young to Older

Genetics: Yes, dogs have this too and it can certainly play a role in your dog's aggressive behavior. Certainly there are breeds which are simply more aggressive than others. Research your breed well before making a choice of a new young puppy.

Modifications:Having dogs spayed or neutered will, in most cases, bring about a change in a dogs aggressive behavior. They will be a lot calmer around the house. There are sometime negative effects to the dogs health from some of these physical changes, such as obesity. It always pays to keep you and your dog as fit as possible and this will need to be emphasized should you elect to spay or neuter your dog.

Environment:Dogs that have been ill treated, attacked by other dogs or have terrible living conditions will tend to manifest aggressive dog behavior. This is especially true if their masters, whom they look up to, show them no love or affection. These poor dogs tend to be social outcasts. Seen from a human perspective, I think any one of us would react in the same way. Ultimately as the dog ages it will lean more towards aggressive behavior. Please avoid making your dogs life a misery.

Dominance:Young dogs, as with young adolescent humans, have a point to prove. Your dog may exhibit this in nipping, posturing or simply disregarding your instruction. In this manner they try and assume dominance which will inevitably lead to your dog showing aggressive behavior as he attempts to assert his position. This needs to be nipped in the bud. Make sure your dog knows that you are the Alpha Dog in his pack.

Aggressive Bad Dog Behavior - What can be done?

Dogs reach sexual maturity at 14 months, at which time there should be no aggressive behavior being displayed. This statement is even more true if the dog has been neutered or spayed. You must ensure that your dog sees you as the Alpha Pack Leader. The dog must look up to you.

Don't show weakness by rewarding bad dog behavior. This is exactly how your dog will perceive your well intended reward when he has been aggressive, as weakness. Isn't that what dominance is all about, common sense really.

Your home is your home, so don't let your dog take control of it. Maintain the boundaries that have been set. A well behaved, socialized dog that has a clear understanding of who the Alpha Dog is, will be a happy and contented dog. Dogs require stern control and you need to dominate at all times otherwise your dog will assume this role which could result in dog aggression in your home.

Your dog must take instruction from you. You control feeding time, walking time and all aspects of the pack. All members of your immediate family that live with you are members of the dogs pack. You need to ensure that your dog knows who calls the shots.

If your dog a shows aggression due to fear, known as defensive aggression, you need to get this under control. This could be due to your dog having low self esteem, no socialization or no confidence. When you have an afraid dog, he could lash out in panic or fear at someone or another dog. Don't allow your dog near small children until you have instilled confidence in your dog and eradicated these fear issues. More advanced or professional help may need to be sought after.

In severe case where a dogs aggression has resulted in dog on dog aggression or even worse dog on human aggression, you should definitely consider seeking and paying for the best possible professional dog advice you can afford. That is, if this is still an option. Let's hope things will never go that far. Remember, you are responsible for your dog's behavior. Let your dog be a symbol of your character and display only the best traits that are what makes your dog, man's best friend.

In closing, I'm pretty sure most of this stuff is common sense. Sometimes you just need to read it for it to hit home. Remember all your dog really wants is a safe and good place to shower his affection and enthusiasm on you and your entire family. Your dogs aggression, in some situations, can be life saving. We all know that a dog's love knows no fear. So don't be afraid, let him know you love him by being his Alpha Dog.

Hi, my names Derek and I am a Dog Lover and Enthusiast. Please join me at my website where we deliver the Best Dog Health and Training Advice [http://www.besthappydog.com/] and share our insights along with many top experts.

Why don't you subscribe to my free, regular and current newsletter which is packed with loads of relevant and well researched dog health and training advice. I am also giving away a free book on How to Become the Alpha Dog [http://www.besthappydog.com/how-to-be-the-alpha-dog/], which will give you the know how to take charge of your best friend.

Hope to see you soon, thanks for reading my article.

Cheers for now.

Regards

Derek

LIVE...LOVE...LIFE... to the MAX!!!!

Use a Dog Crate and You'll Never Regret It

As an experienced and responsible dog owner and retired dog breeder, I feel the three most important pieces of equipment purchased for your dog are a leash, collar and a dog crate. From these three items, I believe that the dog crate is the most valuable you will ever purchase. Why? Let me explain.

Puppy Potty Training

It took me 3 days to potty train my toy poodle puppy at 8 weeks old using a dog crate. How did I accomplish this? When your pup wants to sleep, walk him to the dog crate, make sure he is comfortable, and shut the door. When he wakes up, take him from the dog crate straight outside to the area in which you want him to do his business. The key with small dogs, in particular, is to make them walk to the door. People tend to want to pick them up and carry them outside. While researching what others have to suggest about potty training, they give you the right information, except many leave out the part about having your dog "walk" to the door. Even large breed puppies tend to get carried out the door because:

*They are just babies *They are still sleepy *They are just so cute and cuddly you have to carry them everywhere.

Do not carry them. Through experimentation, I have learned that "walking" them to the door helps them find their way faster. They will associate the door to the outside very quickly. Open the door and head straight to the potty spot. They will learn all this faster if they are not floating through the air on someone's arm to be deposited at the potty spot. A good idea is to pick a phrase you are comfortable with to say to your dog, like "Go Potty" and repeat it every time you take them outside. The minimum time to wait for some action is 20 minutes. Don't give up. The other key is to dedicate your time to monitoring your puppy until you are successful. The small amount of time, say a week or two, is minute compared to the life of the dog. A dog crate will help you enormously by giving you a breather while they are sleeping, knowing they are tucked away and you have approximately 2 hours before they wake up.

Children

Saving your small dog from your children or grandkids by putting them in a dog crate can keep the peace in your home. Our toy poodle liked small children except when they tried to pick him up. He would avoid them by staying just out of reach, while the grandkids slowly stalked him, bent over with their arms spread like they were herding geese. They would eventually get him cornered. Feeling trapped, Spike would come out nipping their hands so he could escape. To avoid the crying children and upset dog, I would put Spike in his dog crate. He was quite happy and beyond searching hands until the grandkids made their exit. The routine then became: Grandkids arrive, Spike disappears to his dog crate for safety.

Dog Shows

If you take your dog to dog shows or other dog events, it is inevitable that you will want to tuck him away during the times you can't be with him. You may have several dogs to show, you may want to grab something to eat, you may have to use the washroom, along with an abundance of reasons that you need to put your dog away in a dog crate where he is safe while you do something else. Dog crates also make a great grooming table with a few modifications.

Show Dog Handlers

The life of a show dog handler can be fun, exciting and sometimes dangerous, trying to make it from one show to the next while tending to the dogs in their care. They are hardworking people who take on several dogs to travel with and promote throughout the country and sometimes on other continents. They usually have a van or motorhome where they place dogs in dog crates while travelling. I have known some of these hardworking people to be involved in accidents while travelling from one show to another. One handler had an accident when her camper van was severely damaged and dog crates with dogs inside went flying everywhere. Not one dog was injured because they were all secure in their dog crates. Besides saving the lives of the dogs in her charge, she also avoided being sued by the owners of these dogs, all because the dogs were safe in their dog crates.

Airlines

When you acquire your dog, the last thing you would expect to do with your dog is fly. I had the same thought, until we decided to breed our female Bouvier des Flandres to a male on the other side of the country. Driving was out of the question, so we flew her to the male dog. There is no other way of flying your dog to another location without a dog crate. Airlines are particular about what kind of dog crate they will allow you to use, so make sure you check that you have the right kind before you attempt to fly with your dog. It can save you a giant headache at the airport if you don't have the right dog crate.

Pickup Trucks

I have witnessed dogs riding loose in the back of pickup trucks for more than 50 years. As a kid, I thought it was cool to see them perched on the tool box with their ears flying, tongue hanging out and a great big grin on their faces...until I saw one lose his balance and fall out onto the road. The physical injuries that dog endured were images that stick in my mind to this day. When I noticed that people were stringing a line across the truck bed and leashing their dog to the line, I thought that was a great idea...until I saw a dog flip over the side on a curve and get hanged as the owner was oblivious to what was happening. We managed to stop him so he could rescue his dog, but he would never have known had we not alerted him. Now, when I see a dog crate in the back of a pickup truck I silently thank the guy for loving his dog so much that he spent the money to keep his dog safe while traveling.

Cars

Drivers with small dogs draped along their arm so their dog can stick their head out the window because he "likes" it and it makes him feel good are a hazard to everyone around them. An unexpected jerk of the vehicle can send your dog tumbling underneath your feet where you need the most control in a bad situation. Add children to the mix and the safety issue is even more important. Keep everyone safe by buckling up the children and securing your dog, preferably in a dog crate.

It is your responsibility to keep your dog safe and healthy. One of the many ways of doing this, as a responsible dog owner, is to put your dog in a dog crate when the situation arises. From potty training to saving your dog's life while in a vehicle, and the many reasons in between, a dog crate is invaluable and worth the investment.

Donna White is an experienced and responsible dog owner, retired dog breeder and wife to a retired Police Dog Trainer. It is your responsibility to keep your dog safe and healthy. One of the many ways of doing this, as a responsible dog owner, is to put your dog in a dog crate when the situation arises. From potty training to saving your dog's life while in a vehicle, and the many reasons in between, a dog crate from http://www.dog-crate-shop.com is invaluable and worth the investment.

How to Incorporate Dog Training Into Dog Play and Exercise!

Just like people, dogs need exercise. How much exercise depends on the dog's breed and physical condition. Dogs bred to herd or hunt are strong breeds with great stamina requiring good, daily workouts. The more mentally alert and active your dog, the more exercise and/or playtime he'll likely need.

Just because your dog is out exercising and having fun doesn't mean that they don't have to be obedient. While exercising your dog, you should use some of this time to practice your dog training.

A dog getting little or no exercise can become lazy and overweight and develop health problems; or fretful, stressed and unhappy, and resist training.

It can be dangerous to feed your dog before or after exercise. Don't feed your dog for at least 4 hours before exercise and wait at least one hour after exercise for your dog to settle down before feeding.

Here are some important dog training tips for dog play and exercise:

When training a dog, select a breed suited to your exercise level. If you hunt, hike or run, you'll manage a high-energy dog better than if your idea of exercise is reaching for the TV remote. If you get a dog to up your own exercise level, start slowly and don't overdo. Walk shorter distances a few times a day before slowly upping your distance. Long walks are ideal for bigger dogs; shorter, more frequent outings suit small dogs.

Exercise, when training your puppy, should be kept to short bursts of 10 minutes. Puppy Obedience is a form of exercise for puppies because they're concentrating on you and your commands. As your dog learns obedience and masters the training skills, more of his exercise will come in the form of playtime, walking and running.

One the best forms of exercise is simply walking your dog around your area. A 30- to 60-minute walk around the streets of your neighborhood is great exercise for both you and your dog. Your dog will also enjoy all the different smells and visual stimulation of cars, people and other animals. This is also a great time to practice getting your dog to walk with a loose lead next to you and to sit. I make my dogs sit at every kerb before we cross the road. When you're walking it is a great time to train your dog because you are practicing everything amid distractions and in a different environment.

A restless dog will respond positively to both mental and physical activity. They want to be occupied, and if you don't provide suitable activities, you may not be happy with their choices! Giving them a puzzle such as finding hidden treats (if the dog won't destroy rooms seeking them) or cheeses or frozen dog food packed inside a toy like a Kong can occupy them for a good while. Bones including rawhide that take hours to gnaw are also ways to keep them healthily occupied. You can even practice your dog training in this situation by simply making your dog sit and wait until you're ready to give him the Kong or rawhide. Always pick the Kong up and put it out of reach when your dog is finished with it to show him that you are the top dog and in control.

Games likewise keep your dog fit. Tossing a Frisbee, throwing a ball, and chasing him in the yard are great. Some dogs revel in tearing past you while you lunge to catch them. Not only will your dog get a great workout from chasing a ball or Frisbee but this is a great opportunity to practice some dog training and also show your dog that you are top dog. Dog training techniques that you can incorporate into this game are:

make your dog sit and wait before you throw the ball. When he returns the ball to you, have him sit and set the ball in your hand when you ask for it.

make your dog sit and stay while you walk away from him and then throw the ball. (This is a more advanced training trick.) Continue to make him stay after the ball has been thrown. He must wait until you say he can go. This is excellent because you're practicing the sit and stay command while overriding his desire to chase the ball, which shows great control over your dog.

At the end of play, you must take the ball and set it out of your dog's reach. This tells him you are top dog because you control when you play ball.

If you play chase with your dog, you can incorporate dog training at the end by relaxing your posture and demeanour and being visibly calm. When you are calm and relaxed, call your dog over, make him sit and give him a pat. This will let your dog know that playtime is over and that you are back in control.

If weather keeps you indoors, make use of your dog's favourite toys to have fun. Dogs that like tug-of-war, for instance, can perhaps have a favourite tug toy tied to a stable metal railing to tug when you are busy. Incorporate dog training here by giving your dog permission to start tugging and when he is finished, you remove the tug toy and put it out of reach. This tells your dog the game is over and that you are top dog. A more advanced version is asking your dog to leave the tug toy while playing and then giving the command to begin tugging. If you can do this you have excellent control over your dog. (Important Note: dominant dogs or those you've not bonded with well may turn and bite you in this situation, so be careful when doing this exercise.)

Use common sense when weather conditions are extreme. If you don't enjoy exertion when it's brutally hot and humid, it's a safe bet that your dog doesn't either. Choose the coolest part of the day during hot weather and the warmest part of the day during cold weather, to avoid health complications.

Tiring him out doesn't require tiring yourself. Take your dog to an area where he can safely run free and hit a tennis ball to retrieve. Ball-launching toys are a great way to train your dog to fetch. This is the ultimate exercise for a dog who enjoys this type of play, and a great opportunity to practice your dog training techniques. Walking your dog to the park and hitting a tennis ball for him to chase is so good because you can practice walking on a loose lead beside you on the way, and then you can practice sit at each kerb before you cross the road. When at the park, make him sit and stay before you hit the ball and then make him sit before he gives you the ball back. Another reason this exercise and training routine is so effective is because you begin the exercise with a warm-up walk, and progress into more intensive exercise, with the dog sprinting out after the ball and then jogging back. This can be repeated many times. Once finished, there is a warm-down walk back to your home. Be alert for signs of tiredness or exhaustion when doing this exercise, such as when the dog pants, the tongue hangs down further than usual and the rib cage moves more rapidly.

Exercising is a marvelous way to bond with your dog. A happy dog is one that is regularly exercised and has basic obedience training. And a dog that is well-exercised will invariably be better behaved. And that makes for a happy dog and a happy owner!

Robert's friend Andrew is a Dog trainer who uses only basic dog training tips that work on all types of dogs. Dog Obedience Australia provide dog classes as well as puppy training.