Commercial Dog Food - Ten Realities You Must Know

Do you know what you're putting in your dog's dish everyday?

Most dogs will eat almost anything that's put in front of them and, just like humans, they are what they eat.

Many now suffer from what are preventable diseases...did you know that 46% of all dogs die of cancer, 40% are overweight and scores more suffer everyday from allergies, ear infections, skin conditions, dental problems and other ailments...

When you learn the awful reality about the toxic ingredients in some commercial dog foods it will shock and sicken you and, once you know the reality of the health benefits in feeding a dog a homemade diet, you'll want to make an immediate change. If you stop feeding only commercial dog foods to your dog on a daily basis, slowly introduce fresh meats and vegetables and then stop commercial dog foods completely, you'll save him or her from needless suffering and save yourself a mountain of veterinarian bills, as well.

Now, here are some of the realities about some commercial dog foods and also some of the benefits of feeding a dog a healthy homemade diet...

1. Reality: Do you know that some commercial dog food is really dog "junk" food? If burgers, fried chicken, french fries, etc., eaten as a steady diet, can cause serious health issues in humans, what does dog "junk" food" do for dogs? Generally speaking, a canine's genetic makeup and nutritional requirements resembles that of humans. If we're damaging our own health by eating "junk food", what can be happening to our dogs when we feed them the equivalent, "junk" commercial dog food?

2. Reality: Do you know that the foods we humans eat are also a healthy choice for our dogs? Whatever else you may have heard, the same wholesome, nutritious foods we eat are a terrific choice for dogs. However, there are certain differences between human and canine nutritional requirements so you'll need to learn what they are if you want to feed your dog a healthy diet.

3. Reality: Do you know that if your vet sells dog food it also may not be such a great choice? Just like our own medical doctors, veterinarians aren't taught too much about nutrition in school. Most of what they learn is taught to them by the representatives of the pet food companies such as, on staff company vets, sales reps (do you think maybe they promote their own products?) or else through various studies, articles, and seminars. It's not very likely that your vet knows the difference between good and bad food if they personally haven't studied about it or tried raw or homemade diets themselves.

What may be happening is he or she is operating on obsolete data or"old wives tales". Some vets even profit from selling a certain brand of dog food and that may very well prejudice them against other brands or other forms of feeding a dog, such as home cooked dog food.

4. Reality: Do you know that some processed commercial dog foods can actually be hazardous to your dog's health and can cause numerous medical issues? It's legal for dog food companies to include "4D Meat" ("Dead, Dying,Diseased and Disabled" ranch or farm animals). In addition, they often add road kill (dead raccoons, possum and other animals killed by cars, trucks or disease), dogs and cats euthanized by vets, picked up by animal control workers and brought to dog food companies' renderers for processing, powdered mill factory floor dust (they call it"grain") and what they call "corn" (usually ground left over husks) that's contaminated with very high amounts of pesticides. What some pet food manufacturers are putting into dog food and disguising as "ByProducts" is borderline criminal!

It all makes a recipe of the worst possible mixture of ingredients we could ever feed to our dogs. And yet, millions of us do so, unknowingly! Remember...the cheaper the food...the cheaper the ingredients...the worse the nutrition...the more harmful, even deadly it an be! Make sure you know what's in the food, whenever you're feeding a dog! Read all about commercial dog food in depth in my future articles.

Please note: not "all" commercial dog foods are made from poor quality ingredients and cheap byproducts. Dog food manufacturers and the ingredients they use differ greatly. My goal in these articles is to provide you with as much information possible, so you can make your own "informed" decisions about what is or is not good food for your dog. I'll get into much greater detail about different "quality" dog food producers, ingredients and how to read dog food labels in future articles...so come back often.

5. Reality: Do you know it's a mistake to think that kibble cleans dog's teeth? This myth was circulated a while ago by a study that implied kibble "may" be better than canned dog food (not "is" better) for cleaning teeth. What must it be saying to us that almost every dog over the age of three that has dental disease eats kibble! Not hard to figure that one out!

6. Reality: Do you know that the term "Complete and Balanced"(used by some commercial dog food companies to advertise their products) does not really mean "Optimum". There are significant differences: food meeting only the "assumed" requirements for the health of an average dog can be advertised as "Complete and Balanced". When these foods are included in feeding trials, they are often only tested for things like lead and others are tested only on a small number of dogs for a very short time.

It's certain that adequate nutrients, necessary for our dog's wellness, will not be included in these products. It certainly is better than "not" complete and balanced at all, but only "optimal" levels of balanced nutrition are what we should be looking for. We'll be providing you with details of what optimal balanced nutrition is in a later article.

Sometimes a fast glance at the label can tell you whether the dog food is made of quality ingredients or not, in others it takes more knowledge about each of the ingredients to be able to tell whether that food is better. Of course every manufacturer is going to state that they are using only the very best ingredients. However, our constitutional right to freedom of speech does not require such statements to be truthful.

Be sure you know what's in the food you're feeding a dog every day! We'll write more on this later...

7. Reality: Do you know that if you're feeding a dog the same thing every day you're limiting it's access to good nutrition? Dog's, just like us, need a variety of food. Can you imagine eating ground corn husks, rancid fat and only chicken wing skin and bones (no Meat) with some cheap vitamins and minerals thrown in, every single day for your entire life?

It is true that some dogs can have an initial sensitivity when introduced to certain new foods. So, feeding a dog a variety of foods can lead to stomach issues, but it's only because they've been lacking balanced nutrition in their diet. As soon as they're given a well balanced diet, their digestive system gets restored. They can then eat a variety of foods at each meal without any problem, just as we do.

Be sure you introduce different foods in small amounts so that your dog's stomach has time to adjust to the changes.

8. Reality: Do you know that dry dog food is not better than canned dog food? Think about it...the food in a can is kept fresh by the very means of canning it. Now consider the amount of preservatives dry dog foods need after they are opened, in order to stay "fresh" indefinitely in the original bag, or whatever container you use for storage, or when they get left out all day so your dog can self-feed. Dry foods start out cooked and then are subjected to a high level of heat, which destroys nutrients...canned foods are canned fresh and therefore, retain more nutrients (although they're really not completely balanced).

Fresh food is "always" the best choice, either fed raw or cooked...next would be frozen or dehydrated and then freeze dried foods, all available at better pet stores.

9. Reality: Do you know that some of the ingredients used to make commercial dog food and certain common, everyday foods can be toxic to dogs, even kill them! Cooked bones and rawhide chews can cause major internal issues that require surgery. Wheat-based treats can induce allergies. Onions, grapes, raisins, chocolate, Xylitol (the artificial sweetener) and other foods can be hazardous and should never be given to dogs.

To learn more about what's really in commercial dog food and the other items that are toxic to dogs, come back often and read our future articles where we'll give you detailed information.

10. Reality: Do you know that corn can kill dogs? Most dry dog food is loaded with this cheap filler and it's not the same corn we eat...it's the cheap remnants that's fed to cattle...even corn meal dust, swept up from the mill floor, is allowed to be used in dog food! Also, if this corn had been found unfit for human consumption due to pesticide content, then there's actually no limit for pesticide contamination in pet foods. Additionally, corn is very high in calories and therefore, very fattening...so, is it any wonder many dogs are overweight and suffer from diabetes.

So, now you know some of the awful realities about commercial dog food. Once you decide to improve your dog's diet and stop feeding that "junk" food, you can greatly improve his or her health and longevity...plus, you'll save yourself a lot of money!

All it takes is a little bit of knowledge and the desire to provide your dog with the vitality and long life it so richly deserves. We'll do our best to supply the knowledge...you just need to supply the desire.

Dogs Rule!

Anita Boyd is a caring "dog person" who is interested in dog health and longevity and has loved and raised dogs all her life. She recently learned that, for many years, she had been feeding toxic ingredients to her dogs. One of them suffered from severe bladder issues and died at a very young age and several others died far too early from cancer. The last of her dogs to die, died of stomach cancer.

Now that she's spent a lot of time researching dog nutrition and learned the awful truth about what's really in commercial dog food and how toxic it is, she feels compelled to expose the blatant lies that are being perpetuated by pet food companies. She decided to start a website and blog and write articles to publicize and expose everything she now knows or will eventually learn about the disgusting, toxic ingredients we're unknowingly feeding to our trusting dogs, and also give you some healthy options for feeding a dog.

Her goal is to provide you with as much information as possible so you can make your own informed decisions on what is best for your dog.

Both on her "DogBlog": http://www.dogliciousblogs2u.wordpress.com and on her website: Feeding A Dog http://feedingadog.yolasite.com and here in her articles, she provides you with some very valuable information and resources related to this subject.

Hope you visit both and come back here to read her new entries regularly..."In Dogs We Trust"!

Effective Communication in Dog Training

Dogs are amazing creatures. They adapt to countless situations. They are phenomenal at associations: including learning the meaning or implication of many sounds, such as human language. A dog's "vocabulary" can reach upward of 150 distinct words! However, regardless of how smart, how skilled, and how adaptable they are, dogs will never be verbal animals. Their first language, so to speak, is not words, but body language. Because of this, it's only natural that your dog will interpret your words though a "filter" - of body language, facial expression, tone of voice, even your attention. And if one or more of these "disagree" with the words you are using, most dogs will "obey" your body language!

In my experience, most snags in the dog training process result from miscommunication, not willfulness, stubbornness, or dominance. While this article is geared toward training the family dog, the fact is that whether your dog is strictly a family pet, a competitor in canine sports, or a full-time working dog, getting the most out of your training time means learning to communicate effectively with your dog.

Communication Begins with Attention

Possibly the most fundamental form of communication is your attention. This is true whether you are teaching some new skill, practicing an old one, or refining an advanced behavior. When you give your attention to something your dog does - through touch, voice, eye contact, smiling, or laughter - you draw attention to the behavior. This tells your dog that you find the behavior worthy of interest. Dogs, being sociable creatures, find most interaction and attention reinforcing. They value it, and will work to get it - and this is not even considering whether or not the dog finds the behavior reinforcing in and of itself. So when training, keep in mind that you don't have to actively reward a behavior to reinforce it.

Bring yourself into a training session committed to focusing on your dog to the same extent that you are asking him to focus on you. Avoid training when you are distracted or pre-occupied. This is basic respect and consideration, no more than you would give any good friend! To be attentive to your dog, you don't need to stare at him, but you should be aware of him. An effective trainer is aware, present, and "in the moment" while training, ready and able to note and reward any and all good responses, as they happen. And if your dog gives a response you weren't hoping for? Instead of drawing attention to it, verbally or otherwise, ignore it and move on! Drawing attention to poor responses often simply cements them in the dog's brain, and makes it more likely that he will offer it again. Focus your energy and attention on behaviors you want to see again.

As you practice this approach to working with your dog, you will soon find that your dog will be working to gain your attention by doing those things you like. As your dog's behavior steadily improves, voluntary cooperation increases, your relationship with your dog gets stronger, and you both have more fun training. Kind of hard to find a down-side to that, don't you think?

The Body Language of Effective Dog Training

Training your dog is the ultimate expression of leadership: you are taking the initiative to teach, guide, and direct your dog. Your body language, therefore, should reflect your role as teacher and leader, communicating a calm self-confidence and composure. Let's look at the components of non-verbal communication as they affect your dog:

Invite learning with your facial expression and demeanor. Your body language begins at the top, with your face. Training should be a positive, pleasant experience for you and your dog. Before you begin, and periodically throughout, consciously relax your facial muscles. Smile gently. Soften your eyes. Take a deep, relaxing breath, and keep breathing! When you are relaxed and happy, you present a safe haven for your dog's attention. (And there is nothing to be tense about, right? This is dog training, not world peace!) A soft eye will invite your dog to seek out your face, whereas a hard stare may intimidate your dog into breaking off eye contact, reducing your ability to communicate clearly.

If you find yourself becoming flustered, frustrated, tense, or anxious, your may find that your dog reflects your emotions:

He may seek calmness elsewhere, by avoiding looking at you, or even trying to move away from you. Some dogs become exaggeratedly slow and sedate, or even show submissive behaviors, as they try to calm you.
He may "act out" in an attempt to distract you or diffuse the situation. This type of dog may become generally agitated, or even resort to silly antics to distract you from yourself!
If you become nervous, many dogs will reflect that nervousness, either distracting themselves from an uncomfortable situation, or looking around to find the source of your tension.

If any of these happen while training your dog, before you direct your frustration at him, look to yourself first. Take a deep, steady breath, relax your face and your body, smile, and try again!

Communicate confidence. When training your dog, especially a dog new to you or new to training, your movements and body language should give off an air of calm, relaxed confidence. As much as is realistic, remain upright without being rigid. (Remember your facial expression? Your body language should also "invite learning".) As a rule, an upright but relaxed posture helps communicate confident authority - an excellent teaching posture. If your body needs to bend, keeping your shoulders relatively back will help maintain a bearing of self-assurance. While this is more important with a dog beginning its training, and with naturally effusive or assertive personalities, any dog can become confused by too much bowing, bending, ducking, and bobbing. He may naturally assume that you are playing, acting submissive, anything but training! Any hand signals associated with commands should be clean, simple and definitive. They should be free from excessive, meaningless motion, and should never be used to threaten or pester the dog.

Communicate composure. Be still. Whether you are working on a stationary exercise (such as a sit-stay), or a moving exercise (such as heeling, or a recall), focus on keeping your body language "quiet". Don't bury your cue in a gush of confusing, meaningless gestures or activity. Allow your dog to focus on your words and any intended hand or body signals; don't put him in a position to have to sort the wheat from the chaff, so to speak. Once your dog is more advanced in his training, you may wish to teach him to respond to verbal cues despite unrelated body language. But for now - first things first. Walk before you run!

More than Just Words

Communicating clearly and effectively to your dog includes becoming aware of how your tone of voice, and delivery of cues, affect how your dog learns and responds. When training your dog, keep in mind that your voice conveys more than just the command itself.

First, be consistent. Dog owners new to training often vary their cue delivery, switching back and forth between, for example, a nice, straightforward "sit", a loud and forceful "SIT!", and a sing-songy, not particularly confident-sounding "si-yit?" To a dog, each of these sounds is very different, not like the same cue at all! Again, dogs are not verbal animals. Delivering a command that varies in tone, pitch, and length can and will confuse your training partner. Do yourself and your dog a favor: keep the sound of your cues consistent. In other words, pick a sound and stick with it!

Promote cooperation. When you give your dog a verbal cue, your voice, like your body language, should be relaxed and even. Speak in a normal tone. As you give your cue, picture your dog performing the exercise nicely -- this confidence will come through in your voice. Avoid tones that are whiny, questioning, or pleading. Trying to train your dog in these "lost puppy" tones will be an exercise in frustration. They will not gain you acknowledgment, much less respect! Remember, you are a teacher, a coach, a mentor - not a servant. At the other extreme, you don't need to assume a loud, tough-sounding "command voice". This is for two reasons. First, aggressive, intimidating tones tend to introduce resistance in more confident dogs, and unthinking subservience in less confident ones. Neither is conducive to learning, cooperation, or teamwork. Second, your dog is perfectly capable of listening and responding when you speak in a normal, pleasant, everyday tone of voice. Assuming you plan to utilize what you've taught your dog in your everyday life, you will be instructing your dogs here and there all day long. So, why in the world teach your dog that you have to play "drill sergeant" in order to have him do as you ask? It introduces unnecessary stress into training, is not particularly productive, and certainly doesn't reflect a relationship of willing partnership. The fact is, your dog is much more likely to respond calmly, willingly, and thoughtfully if your voice and demeanor are relaxed and conversational. The bottom line: to promote cooperation, teach your dog his cues in a voice that is reasonable, comfortable, and normal for you.

Sincere appreciation is key. All too often, we get so caught up and focused on teaching our dogs that, just when we need to relax and enjoy the moment of success, we end up giving praise that is hollow, rehearsed, and frankly, not very praise-like at all. Keep in mind that the words are not important; it's your demeanor that counts. Praise doesn't need to have a certain tonal quality or pitch nearly as much as it needs to convey that you are sincerely pleased and happy at that moment. In other words, your dog should feel truly appreciated for a job well done - regardless of whether the success was a long sought-after quantum leap, or one of the many baby steps to success along the way.

Feel free to "test run" different happy sounds on your dog, to see what kind of reaction you get. But again, the most important thing is that your dog knows, from your voice and your demeanor, that you are pleased. Don't think you can fool your dog - he lives with you and is fully aware of how you sound and look when you are happy, sad, mad, and indifferent. Mentally appreciate your dog as you give your praise, and it will come through in your voice.

If you do need to use your voice to indicate that you don't want a particular behavior - whether you say no, or ah-ahh, wrong, etc - the sound should be dismissive, not angry or frightening. The point is to educate, not intimidate. Remember, as you work with one another, both you and your dog will make mistakes. The point is not to make him feel badly for his mistake, but to learn how to best help him be right. A dog trained this way will understand your message, while continuing to want to work with you.

Putting it All Together

So, when working with your dog, make up your mind to relax, smile, be calm, and have fun. Can you do it another way? Sure. But this article is about helping you make the most of your communication with your dog, and maximizing the effectiveness - and enjoyment - of your training time together. Remember, both you and your dog will make mistakes as you go along. It's not only okay, it's natural and a to-be expected part of the learning process. Now get out there and enjoy yourselves!

Copyright 2010 Julie Cantrell / Canine Behavior Services ~ All rights reserved.

Julie Cantrell BSc (Zoology), CPDT, CDBC is a professional dog trainer, obedience instructor, and dog behavior specialist. In the past 20 years she has helped thousands of dogs and their owners learn to get along with one another. She draws on both her formal training and her extensive practical knowledge to sort dog training fact from fiction, and provide sound, solid, "user friendly" advice to get dog owners on track to a happier, more satisfying relationship with their best friends.

Julie connects with dog owners, trainers, and competitors through her monthly online Dog Training & Behavior newsletter, and her weekly "Practical & Positive" Dog Training Tips email. She offers both local and distance behavior consultations and dog training and behavior coaching. Her website is http://www.k9behaviorservices.com.

10 Tips to Keep Your Dog Happy

Your dog's happiness is not something you should take for granted. Dogs are aware, sentient beings that need a number of things in order to be content and to enjoy life. Dog owners need to get out of the mindset that dogs are mere possessions and begin to establish caring and responsible relationships with these fine animals. For all the loyalty and love dogs give to humans they deserve consideration in return. Bearing this in mind, here are some tips you can use to keep your dog healthy, motivated, and happy.

Pat and be affectionate with your dog.

This seems simple enough, but in the general bustle of a busy schedule it can be forgotten. Take at least a few minutes each day to just pat your dog and show your love. If you don't understand how this leads to a happier dog, then perhaps dogs aren't for you.

Let your dog have a chance to run outdoors.

This is neglected even more often than the previous tip. Dogs are naturally active, athletic animals. Both to for simple physical exercise and to maintain their sense of psychological zest dogs need to run and jump. So take you dog to dog parks, on hiking trails, or out to a safe yard (fenced or far from roads) and let it actually run or at least vigorously walk.

Clean fresh water.

Many people leave water in bowls for days on end. It accumulates dust and dirt, becomes stagnant, and if outdoors even provides a breeding ground for insects. Change your dog's water daily, and make sure to use clean, fresh water. Also make sure the bowl doesn't run dry for long periods. Just as it is for humans, drinking enough water is one of the keys to efficient and balanced physical functioning. Insuring your dog has good, fresh water is an important step toward insuring good health.

Give your dog high quality food, and food it likes.

Dogs need good high quality, healthy food of course. There's some controversy as to what the best dog foods are of course, but one thing to keep in mind is that your dog should also like the food he or she gets. Experiment with both canned "wet" dog food and dry - ones that are high in nutritive value and protein, and recommended by professionals. Though you may hear it advised, don't feed your dog only dry dog food. Dogs are primarily carnivores and need actual meat in their diet.

People may also tell you not to feed a dog leftovers. But as a matter of fact, any meat leftovers are fine. You can also give your dog bones from the butcher (never of fowl, only large animal bones), which they love. As long as you do these things responsibly, your animal's diet will be more varied and they will be both healthier and happier. Reminder: never feed your dog scraps directly from the table or you will train it to beg and stare every time you eat dinner. Feed dogs any scraps in a separate room and at a different time then your meal times.

Play with your dog and/or give it an activity to learn.

Dogs need stimulation, activity, and learning. They are susceptible to boredom and need something to give their time purpose, just as humans do. So whether indoors or out, spend time being active and playing with your dog. This could take the form of simple wrestling or playing fetch with your dog to more complicated teaching/learning activities such as training your dog to fetch the newspaper.

Take preventative health care measures.

Health and happiness go hand in hand. So take measures to protect your dog's health, preferably before any problems occur. Check regularly for fleas and ticks, especially during the season when these pests are a problem. Here's some advice you may not hear often - avoid the major brand flea and tick defenses such as Frontline and Advantage. These products have been shown to contain neurotoxic compounds and have resulted in health problems for dogs and other animals, and even deaths. There is a product called Best Yet that uses cedar oil to fight fleas, and cedar oil in itself is a natural flea killer with no harmful effects. In general, favor natural health products, and read up on any health products you use on your dog.

Pay attention to changes in your dog's energy level, temperature (an overheated dog will have usually have a warm dry nose, while one at the optimal temperature will usually have a cold, wet nose), appetite, and excretory patterns. If any seem abnormal for an extended period, it may be for a veterinary examination. In general, give your dog a check up at the vet at least once a year.

Train and keep good control of your dog.

Dogs understand authority. If you're vague on control you'll confuse the dog. This does NOT mean to strike, repeatedly yell at, or otherwise abuse the dog. It simply means that in a firm and friendly way you make clear to the dog that you are in control. More often than not this will be in the form of training that involves positive rewards rather than scoldings and yellings. Occasionally you may need to speak loudly to your dog or give it a quick swat. But it is proven fact that dogs learn far better with positive as opposed to negative reinforcement. Your dog will respect and obey you much better if you are kind and firm at the same time.

Give your dog adequate shelter and bedding if it is outdoors a lot.

If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, make sure you have provided adequate shelter in the event of rain, snow, cold, and so on. This will generally be a dog house or other sheltering structure such as a porch. Provide clean bedding in dog houses and change it at least one every few weeks.

Don't chain your dog up or leave it outdoors for long periods.

In general the "dog on a chain" idea is long overdue for a change. Chaining a dog up and leaving it outdoors for long periods is abuse, plain and simple. It limits the mobility of the dog, exposes it for over long periods to the elements, and deprives it of needed contact and interaction. If you must use a chain, make sure it is fairly long (at least 15 feet) so that it allows your dog to move around relatively freely. And make sure that the dog is on the chain for only part of the day.

Leaving your dog outdoors for extended periods is inhumane. Even though dogs have fur, they can only remain warm to a limited degree. In winter temperatures leaving them outdoors for more than a few hours should be avoided. And they definitely shouldn't be left out over night. Inside a house or warm garage is the best place for dogs to sleep, especially in the winter.

Let you dog interact with other dogs and people.

Dogs are social in nature. Indeed, they are pack animals. So if possible, let your dog meet other dogs and play. Dog parks (preferably large ones where people are allowing their dogs to run and play) and dog socialization/training classes are good places for this to take place. Even on an ordinary walk to can let your dog meet and sniff another dogs as long as they don't seem to be snarling at one another. Another option you might consider is simply getting a second (or third) dog. Dogs that can group together and play in yards or your living room will be extremely happy - and a lot of the responsibility for entertaining will be off your shoulders.

If you can't arrange any of this, at least allow your dog greet friends, guests, and people you meet. Don't keep them straining at the leash while you chat. As long as you train the dog well there is nothing wrong with it being friendly and making contact.

Following these tips will help keep your dog happy. In general, try to leave behind the old conditioning in which dogs are thought to be insensitive, greatly different creatures about which you must have only the most minimal consideration. Dog's are not merely playthings for you're your amusement. They need you and are intelligent, aware, and active creatures. They are capable of suffering, depression, and boredom, and equally capable of happiness and excitement. Treat them well and they will surprise you with their energy, joy, and ability to learn.

For some more ways to keep your dog happy visit MyMascot.com. They offer quality dog toys, collars, leads, apparel, and accessories that are both durable and stylish.

How to Rid Your Dog of Fear - Help For Owners of Older Dogs

If you adopted a rescue dog, there is a real good chance that he may be harboring fear of some object, noise, and perhaps even people. Fear in dogs originates from unpleasant experiences that the dog identifies with a specific source. Since a rescue dog has by definition been "rescued", he most likely has been exposed to less than nurturing care. Abuse at the hands of an owner, being left alone much of the time, forced to remain outside, all increase the chances that your rescue dog has developed a fear or two. 

 Why is it important to eliminate fear in your dog?

First and foremost, any creature going through life with fear cannot experience happiness as often as they would without fear. And, you certainly want your dog to gain as much enjoyment in his world as possible. Also, fears can very often retard any training you attempt to administer since you may not have your dog's full attention much of the time. Fear can also cause a dog to exhibit destructive behaviors like digging into your carpet or furniture. Worse yet, extreme fear and the desire to seek refuge can result in injury to your dog, especially for older dogs whose bodies are not able to cope as well with trauma. Or, if your dog fears loud noises, he may one day become lost as he attempts to escape the unsettling sounds. 

Other reactions to fear that can make your dog's life, and yours, less than ideal are constant whimpering, incessant barking or howling, chewing, climbing, cowering, uncontrollable urinating, and disorientation. And, surely you've heard the expression "fear biter". Fear in dog's can make them act aggressively even towards family members. As much as we love them, dogs are animals, and the survival instinct trumps all.  

What causes fear in dogs?

Obviously, before you can help your dog eliminate his fears, you need to know the source. Dogs can exhibit fear of noises (thunder, guns, music from the eighties), people (sometimes just one gender), confinement (be sure your dog's crate is of the wire variety with plenty of visibility), darkness, or objects (vacuum cleaners, brooms, lawn mowers). Dogs also can be apprehensive of slippery floors, that can cause an older dog pain or injury.  

What not to do to eliminate your dog's fears

Before we start discussing ways to overcome your dog's fear, let's quickly review what you should not do. First, do not simply attempt to reassure your dog that all is okay by coddling, petting, or giving treats, without any other treatment. These actions alone will only reinforce the fearful behavior by providing her with a means to a very favorable end. Do not crate your dog, especially if loud noises are the cause. She may very well injure herself in an attempt to escape. Do not punish your dog for the negative behaviors she may exhibit as a result of fear. You'll only end up making her a basket case. 

How to eliminate, or at least minimize fears in your dog

As with any negative, unfavorable behavior exhibited by your dog, your duty as a responsible owner is to make sure that a health issue is not the cause. So, a visit to your vet would be a wise first step. Also, be sure you are exposing your dog to as many social situations as possible. Lots of walks in parks, car rides, time with family and friends. All will help to instill confidence in your dog and will reduce the repertoire of things your dog will fear.

Naturally, the sooner you intervene to ease your dog's fears the better. But, to avoid disappointment, do not expect a quick fix. Treatment methods are gradual. Understand also that it is much easier to nip an emerging fear in the bud before it takes hold, but this scenario rarely plays out for owners of older or rescue dogs, whose fears are probably already well ingrained. But if you do happen to notice a fear manifesting in your dog or pup, you can employ a method of distraction to capture her attention away from the origin of the fear, before she begins behaving fearfully.  Take out a tennis ball, or start a race with your dog, make sure it's an activity she enjoys. If distraction isn't working, the fear is more entrenched than you may have thought and you'll need to try one of the methods described below.

The most successful technique for eliminating fear in your dog is quite similar to the method used for people -  behavior modification. Without getting too clinical, behavior modification is a way to improve behavior, through use of positive reinforcements and negative punishments. It is the process of altering reaction to stimuli. For dogs, its best to stress the positive reinforcement and not the negative punishments, because dogs rarely if ever act positively towards punishment.   

Proper preparation requires you to thoroughly assess the problem. Be sure you know with certainty what is causing the fear. Next, plan for a gradual distancing of your dog from the fear object. Then, determine what things your dog finds most rewarding and gratifying. These will provide the positive reinforcement. 

The specific behavior modification technique you will use is called "desensitization". This involves teaching or conditioning your dog to behave in non-fearful ways to stimuli that frighten her. This is done by varying intensity and duration while providing positive reinforcement of desired behavior.

For example, if your dog fears certain sounds, make recordings of those sounds. Start with a low volume, so your dog won't reach an anxious state immediately. Then, begin an activity that your dog finds pleasurable - an activity or even a favorite treat or food. Plan on a series of these sessions, and each time increase the volume and the duration of the sound. Each time you do this, your dog will begin to associate the rewards with the stimulus that previously caused only fear.

If it's an object that causes fear, the same procedure will work. If the vacuum cleaner scares the daylights out of your dog, start with the appliance within sight of your dog as you partake in the pleasant activity. Each successive session, move it closer to your play area. Then, as your dog is comfortable with the object in close proximity, move it far away again and turn it on (low if it has settings). Continue this sequence until your dog has become totally desensitized to the sight and sound of the object.

If it's a certain person that comes into your dog's life enough to warrant overcoming the fear, you can devise a similar set of sessions with the person in the room at a distance. Again, moving closer to the person as you and your dog enjoy doing whatever activity you selected as being very pleasurable for your dog.  Ultimately, the person can join in.

Of course, there are some fears that are best cured through avoidance. Slippery floors for example.  Dogs either can maneuver on them or they can't. It's best to use throw rugs if your dog needs to traverse the linoleum or tile floors in the course of his daily routines. As for dangerous objects, like lawnmowers, well it simply is best to keep your dog away. 

Should you find your dog not responding to behavior modification techniques as explained above, do not despair. Simply do some more research. There are plenty of resources that provide much more detail than a thousand word article can deliver. Best of luck. 

To reach and encourage others who may be considering bringing a rescue dog - or any dog or pup - into their home, I created a blog -- DogsRpeople2. In it, I provide visitors with useful information, wonderful stories about successful adoptions, resources that will enable them to help others; and, even the opportunity to post pictures and a story of their own dog. I invite you to visit and join the conversation - http://butdogsrpeople2.blogspot.com/

If you have adopted, or soon will be adopting an older dog - or even a pup - you'll want to make sure the experience is a positive one for both you and your dog. Having adopted several rescue dogs myself, I've found an excellent resource that will enable you to provide your dog with all the training required to make them a happy, devoted and enjoyable member of your family.

To learn more about this very affordable, comprehensive manual of dog training techniques click the following link: http://butdogsrpeople2.blogspot.com/2009/05/easy-dyi-dog-training-for-well-behaved.html. And, if you'd like to order, it's available for immediate download. The Gold Membership is currently being offered at a 58% discount for a limited time. So act now before regular pricing goes into effect.

Some Obvious Benefits of Dog Training - Help For Owners of Older Dogs

Wonderful...rewarding...terrific...fantastic...very good...okay...not bad...could be better...let's change the subject. If you were asked how your experience at dog ownership is going, where on this word spectrum would be your response? Well, if it's anything less than fantastic, please read this article in its entirety.

Nothing I can think of has the same potential to make such a tremendous contribution to the quality of your life than opening your home to a dog or puppy. And, nothing has the potential to make your life completely as miserable than opening your home to a dog or puppy.

What makes the difference between the first experience and the second? TRAINING! Every experienced dog owner will tell you that training your dog in obedience and socialization is the absolute best gift you can give your dog, your family and you.

A properly trained dog will provide you with unconditional love, countless hours of enjoyment, and genuine, devoted friendship. While an untrained, non-sociable dog can wreak havoc in an otherwise stable, happy home.

The most frequent excuse I've heard why dog owners don't train their dogs is lack of time. Sure, we're all time-deprived, but the hours you devote to training your dog will come back to you ten-fold in wonderful experiences, fun times, and the benefits that come from having a truly appreciative friend and companion who will stick by you in good times and bad.

The Benefits of Dog Training

It'll help you establish a lifetime relationship with your dog

When you decided to become a dog owner, you took on a responsibility to provide for your dog and make his life the happiest it can be. And, since the most important mission in a dog's life is to please his owner, obedience training will help your dog achieve his lifelong mission.

Whether or not you are aware of it, training begins the moment you bring your dog into your home. Your dog will observe everything you do. How you react to his actions, how you interact with the others in the household. Eventually he will look to you for guidance. He wants only to please. Your lifelong mission should be to help him. He'll very quickly depend on you for food, shelter, and companionship.

While there are many very qualified trainers to help you train your dog, I believe with a passion that you would truly be missing out on such a wonderful experience if you didn't take the task of training your dog on yourself. Many resources are readily available that will help you train yourself to train your dog. And, when you consider the fact that dog training is a lifelong process that continually strengthens the bond between dog and master, it only makes sense that you provide that training.

As you and your dog train together, your bond grows stronger, your relationship becomes closer and an attachment will be established that you'll feel just by being with your dog. Your dog likewise will learn so much about you he'll be able to know what is expected of him, just from your gestures, your facial expressions, your tone of voice.

And don't think it will all be work. You'll find it to be an enjoyable experience. Especially when you move from obedience training to trick training (if you decide to take it to that level). Trick training can be fun. You'll find yourself laughing a lot. And that can only be good for you, for your dog and for your deepening relationship.

It will correct behavioral problems

Let's face it, gone unchecked, a dog can be a furry bundle of bad behaviors. Barking, chewing, digging, running away, jumping up, growling, or even worse, biting, are behaviors no responsible dog owner should tolerate. And basic obedience training - the sit, stay, come, down, heel commands -- will go a long way to correcting the vast majority of those anti-social behaviors. A trained dog will be a joy to you, your family, and even strangers. Your dog will be welcomed in more places which will further strengthen his social skills.

Another advantage to conducting the training yourself is that training should continue throughout your dog's life. Learning keeps your dog's mind vibrant, focused, and active. The alternative is boredom, which fosters bad behavior.

Many of your dog's bad behavior problems are actually normal canine activities that happen to occur at the wrong time, or the wrong place, or directed at the wrong thing. Without training, your dog will soil your carpets rather than eliminate outside; he'll chew your furniture instead of his toy; he'll bark at nothing all night instead of just at the intruder. With proper training you will teach your dog to perform his natural behaviors at the right time, place and in the proper doses.

It will stimulate your dog's intellect

Dogs are by nature very curious. They love to investigate. Smells, sights and sounds all become the subject of investigation. This attribute will help contribute to the success of your obedience training. The other attribute is the capacity for your dog to exhibit exceptional intelligence. But, before a dog has the ambition to learn he needs stimulation. If not a sound, sight or smell, then it can be you providing a challenge with obedience training. Your dog will become smarter, and as a result learn more and learn quicker as your lifelong training progresses.

It will encourage inclusion

Even though you will be the primary trainer, you need to involve the entire family in the process. This promotes inclusion which contributes to the feeling of security for your dog. He'll feel very comfortable in his place in the "pack's hierarchy". When properly trained, you will be able to take your dog on family outings, for walks, car rides, even vacations. This is all quality time that further strengthens bond between dog and owner.

It saves time

Proper training that begins on day one will avoid so much future aggravation as well as the time you will spend disciplining your dog, cleaning up the messes he makes, straightening out trouble he may cause neighbors, repairing the holes in your yard, or arranging boarding instead of simply putting him in the car for the weekend trip. Yes, dog training will eventually prove to be a short cut to a very happy experience.

Training your dog is simply the right thing to do. All involved benefit greatly and directly -- you, your dog, your family, your neighbors, and strangers whose path crosses your dog's.

As I mentioned above, I recommend that you afford yourself the opportunity to provide the training yourself. And, I also recommend below an excellent resource that will help you accomplish just that.  Best of luck.

Make the experience of adopting an older dog -- or even a pup -- a positive one for you and your dog. Begin training your new family member immediately. For information on the most comprehensive, economical and easy-to-use dog training manual I've found, visit this post on my blog -- DogsRpeople2: Secrets to Dog Training!. It's available for immediate download.

I created my blog to reach and encourage others who may be considering dog adoption. It provides visitors with actionable information, wonderful stories about successful adoptions, resources that will enable them to help others; and, even the opportunity to post pictures and a story of their own dog. I invite you to visit and join the conversation - http://butdogsrpeople2.blogspot.com/

Dog Obedience Training - Walking With a Loose Lead

Out there in the dog training world, there are a number of dog obedience training methods that you can employ to train your dog to walk on a loose lead, quietly and calmly.

Fairly commonly you will see, when you travel around your neighbourhood, a dog with a tight lead, pulling its owner along and just about dislocating the owner's shoulder.

More often than not, the owner in this picture, is a child or woman. In this scenario, it is more than likely the dog is showing he is the Alpha Dog.

The Alpha Dogs job is to lead his pack in a strong determined manner and that is all the dog is doing. It is going to require immediate action by all the people living in this dogs pack house to work on this type of doggy attitude and bring him down in the pack order.

Several years ago, the way to teach a dog to walk on lead was to slip a metal chain slip, check or choke collar, with or without inward pointing spikes, over the dogs head. Whenever the dog took a step too far ahead, the handler gave the lead a sharp tug, punishing the dog, and forcing the dog to stick close or earn more painfull punishment.

Thank heavens that that style of training has largely been dropped by modern professional dog obedience instructors. There are some who still believe the choke collar is the only tool to use and if you are looking for a good training club, check what training system they employ and, if they allow choke chain collars, keep on looking.

Many dog training clubs these days use luring or shaping or a combination of both, to train the dog to walk close to the handler. Luring involves having food in the hand nearest the dog and allowing the dog to have a treat every few paces as he follows the food lure.

There is a downside here. If there is no food in the hand, you may find the dog wanders off line.

With shaping you need to use a lot of patience and when you start using this system it may take 10 minutes to walk a few meters to the gate.

When using luring, you start with the dog next to you. Show the dog a fist full of tasty treats, step around the dogs nose so you are facing the dog and walk backwards, slipping the dog as many treats as you can as quickly as you can, acting like a pezz dispenser.

You walk backwards half a dozen paces, luring the dog to follow you, and then swivel around so you are again next to your dog and stop. Give the dog its sit command and click and treat immediately it sits next to you.

Repeat this several times. The dog will start to sit as soon as you stop.

When the dog is following confidently and sits when you stop, you can move to the next step which is starting to walk away in a straight line, with dog walking next to you, being lured along by the treats being fed out of the hand in front of its nose.

Make sure the dog is learning to sit when you stop.

When you have the dog walking confidently next to you, you may start fading away the delivery of the treats. Only give one every second pace and then every third pace and so on. After some time you will have the dog walking on a loose lead as close to you as you require, but you may still need to keep a food lure in your hand, and show this to the dog every so often.

Shaping does take some time but it produces a dog that can think for itself and knows that if it does the right thing it will get a tasty treat.

With shaping, you stand next to the dog and step away calling the dog, saying something like "Fido, walk". The dog will move with you but may immediately run to the end of the lead.

As soon as the lead starts going tight, you immediately stop and stand still and say nothing. The dog will soon enough turn to look at you. Immediately click and offer a reward but the reward is given at your knees.

Start walking again and as the lead goes tight you plant your feet, wait for the look or movement back to you, click and treat at the knees. You repeat this until you have a loose lead and a happy dog.

In using both of these systems, it is up to you to decide the position where you want the dog to walk.

Using both systems at the same time will work quicker than just shaping. Start with the luring walking backwards part and when the dog is ready for you to walk off forwards, you bring in shaping.

Show the dog some treats are in your hand but as you step off, lift the hand and hold it across your chest. When the lead goes tight, stop and wait for the look and as soon as the dog looks back click and treat - with the treat being given at the knees.

When you repeat this exercise, show the dog the treat so he knows it is there but he only gets it when the lead is hanging loose as he walks next to you. Each time the lead goes tight, you stop.

A third method relies on a minor level of punishment. You set off walking with the dog next to you. When the dog gets ahead of you, you suddenly change direction, walking away from the dog. The lead goes tight and the dog is jerked back towards you and you tell the dog "heel", or "close" or "bananas" or whatever command you intend using. The obvious danger here is that some people would be overenthusiastic and try to jerk the dog right off his feet.

This system of training is not quite my cup of tea but some instructors do use it. Be cautious if the dog is running away from you when you change direction as you may end up hurting yourself or the dog or maybe both.

The newest training tool is the Gentle Leader or Halti or any of their derivatives that are now available in all good pet shops.

I fully believe in the power of the Gentle Leader as an all round training tool. As the saying goes, "If you control the head, you control the dog". And these tools do a great job of doing that.

With straps going over the muzzle and tight around the neck just up behind the ears, if you change direction, the lead pulls on a connection under the dogs jaw, pulling the dogs head in the direction you want him to go. The dog has to follow as his head is turned.

When you use shaping and a Gentle Leader, the training will work very well and may be a bit quicker than shaping with the traditional flat collar. But it is a tool and should never be left on the dog permanently. If you use it as a tool, the dog gets to learn that when the Gentle Leader is fitted he needs to be calm and walk nicely.

A strong word of warning. If you use the change of direction system to train the walking on lead, do not use a Gentle Leader. This would put a totally unnecessary strain on any dog's neck and I do not recommend it.

Summarising this article, you need to know if your dog is pulling on his lead because he believes he is the Alpha Dog and to curb this issue rapidly. Once you have selected which of the training systems I have outlined above, do your training in short, interesting and fun filled sessions.

Remember that dog obedience training has to be fun so that both you and your dog enjoy your work sessions together.

Nev Allen has been training dogs for 30 years and wants to help you to make your puppy a good canine citizen. If you want to understand all that is involved with dog obedience training, clicker training and dog ownership then you can read articles and watch videos about these fascinating topics at http://dogobediencetrainingblogs.com

Feeding a Dog Dry Dog Food - You Need to Know the Danger of Fillers

The amount of meat, originally used in dry dog food, has been greatly reduced over the last decade and has been replaced with cheap and potentially harmful cereal and grain products by many lower quality dog food companies. Nutritionally, how each individual dog processes the nutrients that are in these products greatly depends on how easy to digest each of the particular grains may be.

The actual amount of nutrients your dog may get specifically depends on what the amount and type of filler in the brand you are feeding a dog. Dogs can usually absorb almost all of the carbohydrates in certain grains, such as white rice, but cannot digest many of the others like peanut shells.

As much as twenty percent of the nutritional value of other grains, such as oats, beans and wheat can be poor or lost completely. The nutritional value of corn and potatoes is also much less than that of rice. And some other ingredients used as filler in dry dog food such as, peanut shells, cotton hulls, feathers, etc. have absolutely no nutritional value whatsoever, and are only used to hold the dry dog food nuggets together or just to make your dog feel full! These fillers can be harmful to your dog and yet, there are many unscrupulous manufacturers who use them, anyway.

Because grain is necessary to hold the nuggets of dry dog food together, it needs to equal at least fifty percent of the total ingredients. If you are feeding a dog these foods every day, you could be giving him or her a hundred percent more grain than canines normally eat in the wild or that they actually need.

If you check the labels on cheap dry dog food bags, you'll find two of the top three ingredients listed are usually some kind of grain product... ground corn, corn gluten meal, brewers rice, beet pulp, feathers and cotton hulls are some of the most frequently used. Why? Because these are much less expensive, "cheaper" ingredients than meat.

There was a huge recall by Nature's Recipe in 1995 (they pulled thousands of tons of dry dog food off of the shelves) which caused them to lose approximately twenty million dollars. This all came about when consumers that complained their dogs were vomiting and had loss of appetite. A fungus that produced vomitoxin (a toxic substance produced by mold) was found to have contaminated the wheat in that brand.

Although it causes vomiting, loss of appetite, diarrhea, etc., vomitoxin is milder than most toxins. The more dangerous toxins can cause weight loss, liver damage, lameness, and even death, as seen in the Doane case. What happened next should give all dog care givers cause to pause and wonder what's happening with our so called "Watch Dogs" in the government agencies.

Then again, in 1999, another fungal toxin was found that killed 25 dogs. This caused the recall of dry dog food made by Doane Pet Care (maker of O'l Roy, Walmart's brand, plus 53 other brands).

The incident with Nature's Recipe prompted the FDA to get involved out of concern, but for only the human population and not the more than 250 dogs who got sick. It was concluded that the discovery of vomitoxin in Nature's Recipe wasn't much of a threat to the "human" population because "the grain that would go into pet food is not a high quality grain". What! So does that mean manufacturers have a green light to poison our dogs with poor quality or contaminated ingredients?

Dog food manufacturers also use soy as a protein for energy and to add bulk to the food so that when a dog eats a product containing soy it will feel more satisfied. Some dogs do well with soy while others experience gas. Soy is also used as a source of protein in vegetarian dog foods.

And now for corn... did you know corn kills dogs? Most of the dry brands on store shelves is loaded with corn, a cheap filler. This is not the same corn humans eat, it's feed grade corn (the kind fed to cattle), or cheap feed corn remnants. Even corn meal dust swept up from the mill factory floor, counts as "corn" to be used in our dog's food. This same corn may even have been condemned for human consumption, but there are no limits to the amount pesticide contamination set for our pets' foods.

If that weren't bad enough, corn (which gives us both high fructose corn syrup and corn oil) is fattening. Why are so many dogs obese and suffer from diabetes...I wonder if it has anything to do with corn being used as filler in so many dry dog foods?

Dog food industry critics observe that many of the ingredients used as humectants -- ingredients such as corn syrup and corn gluten meal which bind water to prevent oxidation-- also bind the water in such a way that the food actually sticks to the colon and may cause blockage. The blockage of the colon may cause an increased risk of cancer of the colon or rectum.

The presence of corn products in dry dog food - particularly if they are high on the list of ingredients - may indicate that corn has been used instead of a more expensive alternative. About 25% of the corn produced in the U.S. today is genetically modified. Dogs have a difficult time digesting corn.

Corn gluten meal in dog food is a concentrated source of protein that can be substituted for costlier animal protein. In many bargain brands, corn gluten meal provides a large proportion or even the total amount of protein listed in the food label rather than more digestible forms of protein such as meat.

Then there's wheat...wheat is a main ingredient in many dry dog foods. The wheat that's used in these products we're feeding a dog is not what's used in our breads, cakes, cereals, etc. It's usually the "tail of the mill" (that's a clever way of saying the sweepings of leftovers on the floor after everything else in the mill has been processed), wheat germ meal...this is referred to as "middlings and shorts" (same thing as "tail of the mill"...just another way of saying it).

So, lets take a look at what we now know so far, about what goes into those attractively designed and cleverly named bags on store shelves...first there's the diseased and toxic meats (I told you about that in my previous articles), converted (rendered) so it can be legally used in our dog foods. Now, let's see...what else is there that's very, very cheap?

Ahh yes, there's livestock-grade grain (that's the one the FDA showed no concern about with the contamination found in dog food), which is normally the main ingredient the manufacturers use...not because dogs need it in large amounts, but because it's the cheapest food around and can add bulk. But, there are even cheaper ingredients used, such as...waste dust, floor sweepings, husks, rejects from the screening process for flour, straw, sand, dirt, etc. How perfect for our dog's daily diet! Yuckkk!

Now, if they were to call this stuff scraps, no one would buy it so they call it "middlings" (isn't that a cute name!), customers will never know what it really is. Then there's ground up bones, heads, feet, feathers, etc., they name that "poultry meal, fish meal, etc."...doesn't that sound much better than scraps?

What's also interesting is that "livestock grade" really means manufacturers do not need to be at all concerned with "allowable" levels of pesticides left in the grains it uses as fillers in our dog's food. Because of this loophole manufacturers can legally use any of these "waste grains" in our dog's food.

OK, so lets see what other lovely ingredients can also be used as fillers for feeding our dogs:

Beet pulp... the dried residue from sugar beet... this is mostly all sugar. This can be a good source of fiber but has been known to clog the intestinal villus.

Soybean meal... a product made by grinding the flakes that remain after removing oil from the soybeans. Soy is linked to a great deal of allergies that can cause sneezing, swelling, itching, anaphylactic shock and death.

Powdered cellulose... made by processing a pulp from fibrous plant material... otherwise known as "sawdust".

Sugar foods, by-products from grinding and mixing inedible portions of candy, dry packaged drinks, dried gelatin mixes, etc...and other similar foods that are primarily made of sugar.

Ground almond and peanut shells... a source of fiber with zero nutritional value.

Other fillers... ground corncobs, feathers, citrus pulp, weeds, straw, seed hulls, etc

Many dog food manufacturers add such fillers, with no nutritional value, in order to decrease the cost of producing the food, offset rising costs involved in manufacturing, marketing, shipping, etc., and so that they can keep the selling price low.

It's quite ironic that in some cases, unnecessary filler ingredients have become toxic and have led to huge recalls and ultimately massive costs to those companies. A couple of recent cases are, in 2006 the aflatoxin on corn caused the Diamond Pet Food Recall, and in 2007 melamine on wheat gluten and rice gluten fillers caused the Menu Foods Pet Food Recall (which included Hill's, Royal Canin, Natural Balance, Iams, Eukanuba, Purina, Nutro Brands, etc.).

Unfortunately however, the use of fillers in lower grade commercial dog food still continues even after all of these recalls. What the recalls did do is make caregivers aware of this issue and of the health hazard these cheap fillers can pose to our beloved dogs. It's also heartening to note that a great many caregivers are now paying special attention to learning about and reading dog food labels and understanding just what may be in those attractive bags on store shelves.

Yet there are many cheap "fillers" that are not included in the labeling and the possible use of them needs to be recognized. With the continued use of low grade foods your dog can still be ingesting such things as: cereal byproducts, cottonseed hulls, citrus pulp, straw, corncobs, feathers, soy, sawdust, etc.

Many of these cheap fillers are added to the food instead of a high grade filler like rice. The use of these have been known to be harmful to a dog's intestines. These cheap fillers have also been known to cause more serious health problems in puppies, senior dogs or dogs that have a diminished capacity to fight off disease. Even in light of this manufacturers will continue to add dangerous ingredients to our pet's foods in order to offset the rising price of producing dry dog food.

Cheap grain fillers are in danger of becoming contaminated due to the fact that hazardous chemicals are used on them in the growing and storage process. This can make your dog very sick or even worse. Also, a number of veterinarians have called attention to the fact that soy ingredients, which make up a large quantity of fillers, may cause dangerous allergic reactions in dogs. These can include everything from minor sneezing or hives to extremes like shortness of breath or severe shock.

We can greatly enhance the nutritional benefits in the food we feed our dogs by using higher a quality food. In order to provide the highest level of nutrition when feeding a dog, we must always buy dog food that contains the appropriate quantities of protein, fiber, fat and carbohydrates. You can learn the correct amounts at the AAFCO's site and then us this knowledge to read the labels on the bags. Always beware of generic brands and foods priced low for quantity purchases They are probably full of disguised fillers.

Beware, many dog food manufacturers pay their advertising agencies very high fees to lure you into purchasing their products. Once you have the knowledge of what the appropriate ingredients and correct amounts needed for your dog's optimal nutrition and know how to read dog food labels, you can provide your dog with the best diet to protect him or her from illness or even worse.

To avoid fillers, look at the ingredients on your pet food. While some companies may list real meat as the number one ingredient in dry dog food, they may actually have more cheap fillers hidden in it, thus reducing the ratio of quality ingredients to useless ones. Stay vigilant and learn what's actually in the food you're feeding your dog. Remember, it can be very costly to buy cheap dog food!

I will be posting another article on Dog Food Labels and how to read them soon.

Till then, take good care of your dog... for the love of dogs!

Anita Boyd, a "dog person" her entire life recently learned she's been feeding toxic ingredients to her dogs over many years through a commercial dog food that she trusted would nourish them. One of her beloved dogs suffered from severe bladder issues and died at a very early age and some of her other cherished pets died far too soon from cancer.

Since she's learned the awful truth about what's "really" in some commercial dog foods, she feels compelled to expose the blatant lies that are being perpetuated on unaware care givers by unscrupulous pet food companies. So, she's decided to publicize everything she's extensively researched and will continue to uncover about the disgusting, toxic ingredients we're unknowingly feeding to our trusting dogs and offer dog persons better alternatives for feeding a dog.

Here in these articles, as well as on her blog all about feeding a dog nutritious foods and on her website, you'll be provided with extremely important and highly detailed information related to this subject. Anita hopes you'll visit both real soon to learn much more about feeding a dog safe food. And, please be sure and come back here often to read new and informative articles, all about how you can make sure you're feeding a dog the best dog food possible in order to ensure him or her a long and healthy life.

"In Dogs We Trust"!

Top 10 Dog Supplies For the New Dog Owner

Whether you are bringing home a new puppy from a breeder or adopting an older dog from a local shelter, the excitement is still the same. There is so much joy in bringing your new dog or puppy home for the first time. This ball of fur will become an important member of your family and as such deserves a smooth transition into your household. Many people, especially new dog owners, often overlook what needs to be done before they bring their new dog home. This article focuses on the top 10 must have dog supplies for every new dog owner. Whether you buy new or borrow, having these items will make your pup a much happier pooch. In addition, being prepared will make the transition to becoming a dog owner much easier on you.

1. Dog Food: Obviously you want to make sure you have dog food on hand before you bring your new pup home. The trick here though is figuring out which one! There are so many different dog foods on the market today that it can be confusing for a new owner. An important thing to remember is that if you are bringing home a puppy, make sure you buy "Puppy" food which is specifically formulated for puppies. A dog who is over 1-2 years of age should be on an adult food. Take note of your dog's appearance before bringing them home and choose a food accordingly. For example, if they are overweight choose a light formula. If it is a small dog choose a formula specifically for small dogs. You can also check with your vet to see what food they recommend.

2. Dog Collar and Leash: Make sure you buy the appropriate size dog collar and leash before you bring your new pup home. Just as with humans, exercise is a very important part of a dog's life. Walking your dog should be a daily occurrence and so you will need an appropriate collar and leash. There are so many unique, cute dog collars to choose that you're sure to find a collar that fits you and your dog's personality!

3. ID Tag: One of the first things you should do is attach an ID tag to your dog's collar. It should have at least two phone numbers listed in case your pup wanders away from home. You can also list your dog's name and your address if desired. You can get these online or from your local pet shop.

4. Food and Water Bowls: If you don't like the idea of using bowls you already have at home, make sure you buy at least two dog bowls for food and water. If your pup will be spending a good amount of time in your fenced yard it would be beneficial to have a third water bowl outside. All dogs need access to water at all times.

5. Dog Crate: This is more for puppies than for the older dog who is already house trained. Crate training is essential in getting your dog house trained easily and in a timely manner. Crates are also good for keeping your new puppy out of trouble. Make sure you do your research though. Crate training, when done correctly, can be an invaluable tool. But when done incorrectly it can be a nightmare for you and your pooch.

6. Dog Bed: Dogs are naturally den animals. As such, they need their own haven where they can feel safe and sound. They need a place where they can go when they need rest or when they are feeling stressed. For many dogs, this sanctuary is usually their bed. If you don't provide your pup with a good unique dog bed of its own, it will usually find a way to create its own den, usually at the expense of your couch or favorite chair! You'll be able to find large dog beds, small dog beds and designer dog beds online or in your local pet shop. Dogs tend to sleep about 12-16 hours per day, so make sure you invest in a good quality bed.

7. Dog Toys: Dogs need stimulation in their lives. A fun toy will keep them stimulated and happy. Dog toys are a great way to bond with your new pup as well. In addition to this, if you have a good selection of toys on hand your dog is less likely to chew on your furniture or shoes! You can find some of the best dog toys online or in your local pet shop.

8. Healthy Dog Treats: The importance of a dog treat shouldn't be underestimated. Use all natural dog treats, or organic treats, when training your new pup and as a reward for good behavior. Try and use healthy dog treats that are low in fat and made with quality ingredients like real meat and/or vegetables. Some dogs have allergies, in which case you can buy wheat free dog treats.

9. Grooming Tools: If your new dog has hair on the long side or if it is a breed that needs regular grooming, make sure you invest in a pet brush (preferably a 'slicker' brush), dog comb and nail clippers. Even if you will be getting your pup groomed by a professional groomer, you will still need to maintain their hair in-between grooming appointments. If you do not keep your dog knot free they will more than likely get matted which can result in your groomer having to shave the hair very short.

10. Dog Shampoo: All natural dog shampoo or organic shampoo that is made specifically for dogs is the best. You will even find shampoo for allergies if your new pup suffers from itchy skin. You can also use flea shampoo as part of your dog's flea and tick treatment.

Now that you are prepared, the transition from non-dog owner to dog owner will be a much easier one. You will probably find that there are other things you may need or want before you bring your new dog home. But this is a good list to get you started. It's always a good idea to talk to a vet, dog trainer or other dog owners if you have any questions or concerns. Good luck and enjoy your new pup!

Dana Lloyd is the owner of LaBellaDoggy.com, an online designer dog boutique that specializes in luxury dog fashion, dog clothes and accessories, unique dog beds, gourmet dog treats, dog toys and more. She is also an animal advocate who dedicates some of her time to dog rescue.

Visit LaBellaDoggy.com to see a large selection of Designer Dog Supplies

When you shop at LaBellaDoggy.com know that you are supporting a small family owned business!

Visit the website at http://www.LaBellaDoggy.com/

Dog Wellness - Secrets to an Obedient Dog

There are many areas pertinent to dog wellness but the one that is beneficial to having an obedient dog is obedience training. Obedience training is an essential ingredient to a good dog-human relationship, and creates a happy, healthy relationship between dog and owner. Before we get into the secrets let me share with you the positive aspects of training.

1. Training will establish a safe and non-confrontational way for you to establish control. This is especially necessary for a dominant dog personality.

2. Pushy dogs that get on the furniture or nudge their owners for affection or petting are less dominant but still need to obey rules. Training keeps them under control and lets them know their owner is the dominant one.

3. Dogs descend from wolves, which live by rules and have a social structure. The pack operates under a single leader, with clearly defined lines. Although dogs have allowed themselves to be domesticated by man they still hold the natural instinct to test their position. Training lets your dog know that you are the single leader and he must respect and obey your position in the pack at all times. No matter the breed or how small your dog is he is still a dog, and must know his place in the family. This understanding is what makes for a happy owner and dog wellness.

4. Training will strengthen and build a healthy relationship between you and your dog.

5. Opens a clear line of communication between you and your dog.

6. Sets rules and boundaries that educate your dog on becoming a dependable member of your family and society.

7. Prevents the growth of unwanted unacceptable behavior such as nipping, growling, jumping up, chewing, and digging to name a few.

8. Eliminates confusion because your dog will know his place and will come to respect yours.

9. Obedience training gives your dog the crucial needs of exercise, mental stimulation and a bonding relationship with his owner. Another vital component to dog wellness.

10. A dog or puppy with obedience training is a much safer dog.

11. Gains trust and mutual respect with your dog.

12. Well behaved when you have visitors to your home or take him out.

13. Helps to avoid stress and anxiety in the dog and the owner

14. Reduces the risk of becoming locked in a dominance struggle with your dog.

15. Training promotes a happy, healthy, confident dog eliminating problems such as separation anxiety which is serious and very common, often causing pet owners to give up their dogs.

It is important to remember that obedience training is a step by step process that you build over time with your dog. It doesn't happen overnight. Begin training your dog as early as possible, even as early as 3 months of age.

Secrets For An Obedient Dog

Never under estimate the power of positive reinforcement. In the work place we aware of 2 types of managers. There is the manager that uses fear, loud vocals, and threats to get his employees to perform, and then there are managers that use a positive, good natured, calm approach. I personally have worked for both types of managers and let me tell you - there is no comparison! A positive approach is not only less stressful but creates a happier, more productive employee, not to mention, an employee that will sincerely give more than 100% productivity and feel good doing it. Positive reinforcement in obedience training contributes massively to dog wellness and has a high success rate.

Your dog acts as your employee, and offering a positive environment with positive reinforcement will get you faster, more productive results, while at the same time building a strong and trusting relationship.

Timing

Giving your dog a treat for his good behavior is a great idea but the timing of it is most important. If you wait too long, your dog is not able to associate the treat with his good behavior, which means your efforts are lost. This same understanding applies to punishment for poor behavior; The punishment needs to be immediate or your dog will have no idea why he is being punished, and too of this can cause you other problems later on. When it comes to punishment, you must catch your dog in the act for the scolding to have a positive effect on his behavior, otherwise the punishment will not work toward your intended desire.

Dr. Nicholas Dodman (a wonderful veterinary behaviorist) gives us these principles toward effective training:

1. Training should not involve any negative or punishment-based components. There should be no yelling, no hitting, no chain jerking, no hanging, and absolutely no electric shock. Each session should be upbeat and positive with rewards for jobs well done.

2. Remember that the opposite of reward is not punishment; it is no reward. If you ignore unacceptable responses, your dog will not be rewarded for his failed response. Most dogs want to please their owners or, at the very least, to obtain highly valued resources such as food, toys, or attention.

3. Reward good behavior immediately. The reward needs to be immediate so the dog associates the reward with the behavior.

4. If praise is used as a reward, deliver it in high singsong tones, which are most pleasing for the dog. Use an enthusiastic voice. If petting is to be used as a reward, it should be in a way that the dog enjoys, such as stroking the dog's hair on the side of his face in the same direction that it grows, or scratching him on the chest.

Methods and Consistency

There are several approaches to obedience training.

1. Only Trainer and Dog. You can hire a professional trainer who will house your dog, train him, and hand him back to you. The pet owner will be taught the commands and the basic rules around the commands in order for the owner to carry out the consistency of pattern that the trainer has used and so your dog knows that you are now the one he must obey. But the hard work and time is taken up by the trainer.

2. Private or group training - dog and owner. You and your dog can attend private or group training classes in which you, along with your dog, learn the different commands and the owner learns how to handle his dog. Most of these training courses go on for 4-6 weeks; however take note that a dog is not fully trained in this frame of time and still requires that you further his training at home when the sessions are finished-especially if you are training a puppy. This method is a great way for you to also get your dog socialized around other people and other dogs which is another major area to dog wellness. A well socialized dog makes for a well rounded dog and a happy owner and contributes highly to dog wellness.

3. Just you and your dog. Nowadays there are plenty of wonderful pet sites that will guide you through the individual commands, and give you tips and tricks on how to best handle your dog. Pet owners can also investigate this same method by the breed of dog they have in order to get tips on handling that particular breed. This is also effective because different breeds have different personality traits. Many of these sites give free information - all you have to do is follow the method and be consistent.

Whichever method you chose it is important and pertinent to your success that you remain consistent and on track. If you have older kids, it can be very helpful if you train them on the procedures and allow them to help you out when you are busy or overwhelmed with other responsibilities. The other benefit of this is that your kids will learn how to conduct obedience training, get closer to and earn respect from your dog. It is vital that everyone in the family knows the command being taught and practice with the dog. This will build a good relationship between the dog and other family members.

Obedience training with positive reinforcement, along with timing and consistency are keys to having a well behaved, happy, healthy dog which means your life as a pet owner will be much enjoyed and well worth the work. Remember that obedience training does not happen overnight and is a continuous process over a period of time. Start training as early as possible. Puppies are not too young to start learning the rules and in fact, they should begin their training as soon as possible, with age appropriate measures that will expand and grow with age. These tactics will contribute highly to your dog's wellness and will have you as a dog owner barking to a happy tune.

TIP: Did you know that patting a dog on top of his head is usually disliked by most dogs?

Carrying out her mother's tradition, Michel's family and pets live a life of wellness, including holistic care, natural remedies, and home grown healthy meals. She uses pet natural health care to keep her pets healthy, thriving, and to save on vet bills. People and pet wellness is a passion for Michel. Dog Obedience Training.

Dog Bites - Preventions and Remedies - Help For Owners of Older Dogs

Yes, they do occur. In fact, two percent of the U.S. population will be the victim of a dog bite. And, of the top reasons for visits by children under 12 to an emergency room, dog bites are second only to injuries inflicted by a baseball or softball. Higher than skateboard accidents, texting, tweeting, or even taking double-dares.

Preventions

The first and foremost preventive measure - exercise common sense. I could stop there, but to make this article useful to those who may not be blessed with any (not you of course), I'll list preventions that will prove most useful under most circumstances. This is advice that is most applicable for adults and teenagers. Advice you can provide your younger children appears in the next section.

Any dog acting sick or injured needs to be left alone. Owners need to be notified and the dog should get medical attention.
Don't approach a strange dog without an owner in sight. As much as you may love dogs, this is inviting an incident. Especially avoid approaching the high risk breeds (Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, Dobermans, Akitas, and Chows).
Avoid quick, jerky movements, or loud noises when approaching a dog.
Should a dog get overly excited while playing, freeze until he settles a bit, walk away and come back when the dog is calm.
If the situation has progressed to the point where you think you are about to be bitten, remain completely still, stare at the ground in front of you. Remain still until the dog calms down or retreats. Do not stare at the dog. In doggiedom, that's the same as a one of those double-dares I mentioned above.
If the situation has progressed a little bit further than "thinking you'll be bit", and the dog has actually attacked you, fall to the ground and immediately roll up into a ball covering your face and head with your arms. Stay still, be silent. Don't scream, don't run, don't hit or throw objects at the dog. Those are sure fire ways for you to end up a chew toy for one pissed off dog.
Be sure to train your children on the proper ways to approach dogs.

Teaching your children

An independent effort called Safe Kids/Safe Dogs published some very wise advice to provide your children. This project is designed to teach young people to reduce dog-related accidents. Here's some of the dog safety tips they teach children:

Approach dogs from the side or front - do not sneak up on a dog from behind or while the dog is sleeping or eating.
Never approach a dog without adult supervision - even if the dog belongs to a friend or neighbor.
Always let the dog sniff you first and do not stare him in the eye, some dogs may be threatened by this.
Pat under the chin or on the back, some dogs may get nervous if you touch the top of the head.
If approached by a dog, stand still. If you are on a bike, stop, put the bike down and stand still. Never run or ride away!
Never hang over fences or put your hands through fence openings to touch a dog, even one you know.
Leave a mother and pups be - she may become protective!
Avoid rough games such as tug-of-war, jumping up for toys/food, wrestling and "chase the kid".
Never tease or hit a dog or pull ears, tail or feet.
Always inform an adult if you see a loose dog.
Never run away from a dog - it can encourage a chase.

Preventions for dog owners

As a responsible dog owner, it is your responsibility to start socializing your dog or puppy from the first day you bring him into your home. There are a lot of great resources available to help you do it yourself. The manual I recommend based on my own personal use is called The Secrets to Dog Training Manual. I provide a link at the end of this article you can visit to access this valuable resource.

Some things to do the first day - get your dog out and about among people and other dogs - but always on a leash. Walks to dog parks and people parks. Be cautious in the beginning by slowly allowing people and other dogs to approach your dog.

Get your dog used to having all parts of his body handled. Make sure your dog becomes familiar with the rules of proper greeting - like having your dog sit calmly before he is approached. Which brings us back to the subject of obedience training. Begin that immediately along with the early socialization steps.

After you've exposed your new dog to other creatures you will have a much better feel for just how much training your dog will require. Certainly he will have to learn to respond quickly and consistently to sit, stay, come. Always monitor your dog's behavior, especially in the early days of adoption, and promptly address any concerns through proper training. If serious problems are detected, you would be wise to seek the help of a professional trainer or even a dog behaviorist.

Be sure to spay or neuter your dog if he/she hasn't already had the procedure. Hormones can lower a dog's tolerance for unwanted attention. Don't expect altering your dog will be a cure for all aggressive behaviors but the procedure will certainly enable you to better train your dog to be obedient, tolerant, and just plain old happy.

Dog Bite Remedies

Again, exercise common sense and you can avert an incident from becoming a tragedy. It is very important that you be able to help authorities identify the dog. If it's a strange, non-local dog, try to get any kind of identification. You could very well be avoiding painful rabies shots by doing so.

If the bite has broken skin, wash the wound with soap and warm water. As with most wounds, apply pressure to stop persistent bleeding. Be sure you've wiped all traces of dog saliva from the wounded area. If it is a puncture wound, do not attempt to close the wound, but cover it with a dry, clean cloth dressing and see your doctor immediately (with information about the dog in tow) or the emergency room if warranted. Hopefully you're up-to-date with your tetanus shot. If not, you soon will be.

Make the experience of adopting an older dog - or even a pup - a positive one for you and your dog. Begin training your new family member immediately. For information on the most comprehensive, economical and easy-to-use dog training manual I've found, visit this post on my blog - DogsRpeople2: Secrets to Dog Training!. It's available for immediate download.

I created my blog to reach and encourage others who may be considering dog adoption. It provides visitors with actionable information, wonderful stories about successful adoptions, resources that will enable them to help others; and, even the opportunity to post pictures and a story of their own dog. I invite you to visit and join the conversation - http://butdogsrpeople2.blogspot.com/

Dog Collars Used For Training Dogs

There are a variety of dog training collars used in dog training. Some professional dog trainers advocate one type of collar and only use that type of collar for training dogs, while other dog trainers say that type of collar should never be used in dog training. Of course, each dog trainer uses their own method of dog training, and the type of training collar they use reflects the dog training method they use. This article is about the various types of dog training collars, their proper use, and in some cases, how they are properly put on the dog.

The Slip (aka Choke) Collar

The Slip Collar, also known as a Choke Collar, is a length of chain, nylon rope, or other fabric, with rings on both ends. If the collar is made out of chain, it is commonly referred to as a "choke chain". By pushing the chain or fabric through one of the rings, a loop can be formed which can be put over the dog's head and around his neck. That leaves the other ring free for attaching the leash.

Putting the Slip Collar on the dog With most training, specifically obedience training, the dog is normally on the left side of the trainer/handler. To put the collar on the dog correctly, with the dog on your left, the part of the collar connected to the free ring should go over the dog's neck. To check that the collar is on correctly, you can pull on the free ring to tighten the collar, then release it. The collar should be loose. If the collar is not on the dog correctly, even after you release the free ring, he collar will stay snugly around the dog's neck. When the collar is put on properly and is snug around the dog's neck the free ring should be about 11/2" to 3" from the dog's neck.

Proper use of the Slip Collar When training with the Slip Collar, the collar should be just behind the dog's ears. The slip collar is NOT for pulling or choking the dog. It is to give the dog a correction, when it's needed. The correction is given by applying a sharp jerk to the leash. This means that you quickly pull on the leash to tighten the collar, then immediately release the pressure so that the collar is loose. The strength of the jerk should be just enough to get the dog's attention and is a function of the size, build and temperament of the dog. Obviously the strength of a correction for a Beagle would be a lot different than one for a German Shepard.

The Martingale Collar

The Martingale Collar is like a slip collar in that it tightens when the leash is pulled. The big difference is that it can only tighten a certain amount so that it won't choke the dog. It consists of a length of fabric with a ring on both ends. A short piece of fabric or chain goes through both rings and has both its ends connected to one ring, to which the leash can be attached. When the leash is pulled, the collar tightens to where the two rings touch each other. It has an adjustment so that the tightest it can get is just snug around the dog's neck. Because the Martingale Collar is usually wider than the Slip Collar, it spreads the pressure on the dog's neck and prevents the collar from getting tangled in the dog's fur.

Putting the Martingale Collar on the dog The Martingale collar, after it's properly adjusted, is just slipped over the dog's head and ears. Some of them have a quick release buckles that can be used, especially if the dog 's head is much larger than its neck.

Proper use of the Martingale Collar The Martingale Collar is used in the same way as the Slip Collar. It is less severe than the Slip Collar in the discomfort it gives the dogs, but can be just as effective. Because the Martingale Collar can't choke the dog, it can be used as an everyday collar as well as a training collar.

The Prong (aka Pinch) Collar

The Prong Collar, also known as a Pinch Collar, is designed to simulate the way the mother dog disciplines the puppies by pinching the skin on the neck. The prongs of the collar are not designed to puncture the skin. Some Prong Collars have rubber or plastic tips that can be put on the ends of the prongs. The collar is made up of interlocking prongs that form a circle around the dog's neck with a short piece of chain attached to it much the same way as in the Martingale Collar. That way, the collar can only be tightened so that the prongs pinch, but don't penetrate the skin. The size is adjusted by adding or removing prongs.

Putting the Prong Collar on the dog The Prong Collar is slipped over the dog's head and ears the same way as the Martingale Collar is. Some Prong Collars have a latch on the short piece of chain that makes it easier to put on the dog.

The proper use of the Prong Collar It is important that the Prong Collar is the right size for the dog. You should be able to put the tip of your little finger between the end of the prong and the dog's skin when the collar is loose. The Prong Collar looks more severe than it is. It gives the dog a different sensation than the Slip or Martingale Collars. It doesn't really close in on the dog's neck as much as it pinches the dog's skin. As with the Slip Collar, the strength of the jerk should be just enough to get the dog's attention.

The Head Collar

The Head Collar is usually made out of nylon and has two basic parts. One goes around the dog's neck and the other is a noseband that goes around his muzzle. It is used by trainers who advocate positive training methods rather than corrective training methods. The collar controls the dog's head but does not restrict the dog's ability to pant, drink or grab objects with its mouth. There are three main Head Collar brands: Halti, Gentle Leader, and Control Ease. Although each one is made little differently, they all work the same way.

Putting the Head Collar on the dog The part that goes around the dog's neck is properly adjusted and put on first. The noseband is then put in place around the dog's muzzle. Some dogs don't like this type of collar and fuss and try to take it off. In that situation, dog has to get adjusted to the collar in small steps with lots of reinforcement (treats and praise). The dog has to be rewarded to allow the collar to be put on him.

The proper use of the Head Collar Unlike using the Slip or Prong Collars, the Head Collar is NOT jerked. Some veterinarians say that a sharp jerk on a Head Collar can injure the dog's neck. The dog is guided into the correct position by a gentle pull on the leash. The idea behind the design of the collar is that wherever the head goes, the body will follow. With the noseband around the dog's muzzle, the handler/trainer has a lot of leverage on the dog's head and doesn't need much strength to control the dog. This type of collar is used more for controlling a dog and teaching him to walk on a loose leash than in basic obedience training.

The last two training collars are not usually used for basic obedience training but are included for completeness.

The Training Harness

The Training Harness is the latest device designed for dog training. It is a basic harness with an attachment to a collar. It's used with a leash that has a snap on both ends, with one end connected to the harness ring located on the dog's back, and the other connected to the ring on the strap that goes around the dog's chest. It is made by the same companies that make the Head Collars. Although it's called a training collar, its main purpose is to teach a dog to walk on a loose leash. Once the dog walks with a loose leash, it can be used as just a walking harness using a normal one-snap leash.

The E-Collars

E-Collars or Electronic Collars consist of a collar that has a radio receiver attached to it. It's made in such a way that, when it receives a signal from the transmitter, it gives the dog a small electric shock, much like you get from static electricity. It startles the dog rather than hurts the dog. It's used when the dog is being trained without a leash and from a distance. It is not normally used for basic obedience training, but can help in off leash work. The strength of the shock is adjustable for the size and type of dog it's used on. The transmitter is a hand held device that can adjust the strength of the shock and has a button that is pushed to administer the shock. It is much more expensive than any of the other training collars.

Hirsh Marantz is a retired dog trainer and editor of the dog training web site http://www.trainyourfirstdog.com where you can learn all you have to know to train your dog to always do what he's told and Get your free special report "About Dogs And Dog Training". He also has a website http://www.qualitycollarstore.com where you can find a large collection of training collars.